Pioneer sx1010 took a crap
- Thread starter ingola
- Start date
Please be more specific in your descriptions.
The readings you gave in post 14 are not from the Power Supply.
The image above is the Power Supply.
Can you retake the readings from board the Power Supply board, AWR-054?
Note: Pins 1 - 5 are read in AC volts. Pins 6 - 15 are read in DC volts.
Leave the set on the DBT.
The readings you gave in post 14 are not from the Power Supply.
The image above is the Power Supply.
Can you retake the readings from board the Power Supply board, AWR-054?
Note: Pins 1 - 5 are read in AC volts. Pins 6 - 15 are read in DC volts.
Leave the set on the DBT.
The Power Supply is good except for the lighting fuse.
Let's look at the amps
Again, check the Offset and Idles on both boards with the using DBT.
Please post them.
Offset's should be reading really close to 0 (Zero) volts.
Idles should read less than 25mV's when on the DBT.
Let's look at the amps
Again, check the Offset and Idles on both boards with the using DBT.
Please post them.
Offset's should be reading really close to 0 (Zero) volts.
Idles should read less than 25mV's when on the DBT.
Zeb; Have the OP check the POSITION of the DIM/BRIGHT switch. DO NOT TOUCH IT. Dim runs off F2 Fuse and Bright runs off F1 Fuse. Also F1 Fuse runs to Pin 12 on protection and pin 1 on The DIM / BRIGHT board. F2 FUSE runs to Pin 5 on the DIM/DRIGHT Switch and also to PIN 5 on the POWER SUPPLY BOARD.
If F2 is blown, Chances are the DIM SECTION of the Dim/Bright switch is Shorted. This isn't an Easy fix either as you have high amp AC and DC voltages thru it. Switching the DIM/Bright switch IS NOT the Answer. Mark the Fixer has a Fix for this or the OP can look for a lighting Dimming switch.
Larry
If F2 is blown, Chances are the DIM SECTION of the Dim/Bright switch is Shorted. This isn't an Easy fix either as you have high amp AC and DC voltages thru it. Switching the DIM/Bright switch IS NOT the Answer. Mark the Fixer has a Fix for this or the OP can look for a lighting Dimming switch.
Larry
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Larry is correct about the switch.
You will have to adjust the idle on the right board.
Try adjusting it while its on the DBT. See if can adjust using the trimmer.
If the adjustment makes the mV's change then reset it for the 8.1mV's you recorded when you checked it for the first time.
Plug in the receiver to the wall outlet and power up.
Adjust the idle(s) to the 25 mV's.
It should come out of protection.
Your doing a good job so far, be careful when connecting your meter to the pins. Always power down before clipping the DMM probes/mini grabbers to or off any pins.
Fix the lamp issue, Like Larry said its probably the dimmer switch.
You can take them apart and see if it can be repaired.
You will have to adjust the idle on the right board.
Try adjusting it while its on the DBT. See if can adjust using the trimmer.
If the adjustment makes the mV's change then reset it for the 8.1mV's you recorded when you checked it for the first time.
Plug in the receiver to the wall outlet and power up.
Adjust the idle(s) to the 25 mV's.
It should come out of protection.
Your doing a good job so far, be careful when connecting your meter to the pins. Always power down before clipping the DMM probes/mini grabbers to or off any pins.
Fix the lamp issue, Like Larry said its probably the dimmer switch.
You can take them apart and see if it can be repaired.
Ingola; When you say the board, only you know specifically which one. The rest of us are flipping pages on manuals trying to keep up and figure out what you are doing. Please be so kind as to put the number of the board (it's listed in the manual) such as AWH-032 - POWER AMPLIFIER ASSY. board OR AWR-063-0 Power Supply Circuit Assy. The 1010 is a complicated unit, and really should not be repaired by a novice or someone who is not familiar with PIONEER's. There is a tendency in new guys to rush the repairs, and usually what happens is that the unit doesn't work because the guy didn't check something before installation. Pioneers can be tricky, especially the larger ones (1010, 1080,1280,1050,1250,1980) where they have circuits that the average tech has never seen before.
Slow down a little bit. Think about what you want to accomplish, how you want to do it, then do it as planned. DON'T RUSH. It'll be there at the end either working or a smoking pile. Going slow and methodically will usually get you a working unit in the end. Listen to the guys who are working with you. Do exactly what they say and when they say. They normally have the benefit of experience in these units. And there is a reason for flipping, pushing or twisting certain knobs or switches. The reason may or may not be given. Worse case. Rushing will either, leave the 1010 as a non working doorstop, and or you on the floor with no pulse. We DO NOT Advocate becoming part of a Self administered AED. (An AED is an Automated External Defibrillator) . Go slow, Double Check everything, and keep the plug undone until you are ready to plug it in.
Slow down a little bit. Think about what you want to accomplish, how you want to do it, then do it as planned. DON'T RUSH. It'll be there at the end either working or a smoking pile. Going slow and methodically will usually get you a working unit in the end. Listen to the guys who are working with you. Do exactly what they say and when they say. They normally have the benefit of experience in these units. And there is a reason for flipping, pushing or twisting certain knobs or switches. The reason may or may not be given. Worse case. Rushing will either, leave the 1010 as a non working doorstop, and or you on the floor with no pulse. We DO NOT Advocate becoming part of a Self administered AED. (An AED is an Automated External Defibrillator) . Go slow, Double Check everything, and keep the plug undone until you are ready to plug it in.
Ok I looked inside the AWH-032 - POWER AMPLIFIER on the right side as the idle current on this side will not change from 8.1 when turning vr1 I change the pot to a 500 ohm single turn and will not go any higher I checked behind the the vr1 looks like a broken trace. I'm going to fix the trace by using a lead off a cap making a little loop at the end. I'm going to use asitone to soften the green stuff and scaping it off. Tin the lead and soldering it on the scraped section.
