Pioneer sx1010 troubles

Discussion in 'Pioneer Audio' started by Oscar23, Mar 25, 2017.

  1. Oscar23

    Oscar23 AK Subscriber Subscriber

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    D8 and d9 are in right that I know I checked them twice and just looked at them again the bulb is 100 watts should I can put two 60 watt bulbs or try to find 150 watt( hard to find here in Canada for some reason ) and those other numbers I will get after work tomorrow
     
  2. markthefixer

    markthefixer On Hiatus, dealing with Dad's estate full time

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    keep the 100w in, it'll do - not a lot of droop.

    the diode voltages are critical.
     
  3. Oscar23

    Oscar23 AK Subscriber Subscriber

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    Ok I used a 33v diode for those should that be ok
     
  4. markthefixer

    markthefixer On Hiatus, dealing with Dad's estate full time

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    Yes it is OK.
     
  5. Oscar23

    Oscar23 AK Subscriber Subscriber

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    Well Holly crap I was up this morning reading over your post about pin 10,14 and the diode voltages being critical.started staring at the schematic and I actually understood what you were saying. The d8 need to switch on so q1,2,3 can get the right voltage...same with d9 but for Q4,5,6 I would have no clue why you wanted me to check those before this 1010. I've learned so much from this unit.
     
  6. markthefixer

    markthefixer On Hiatus, dealing with Dad's estate full time

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    Ok, if you can absorb that, I ADDED some additional explanations to that post. </Yoda voice on> Open your eyes it will... </Yoda voice off>

    Got me thinking about a power supply tutorial - when one's eyes are open, they will notice the similarities all the way up through and including the SX-1980!!
     
  7. Oscar23

    Oscar23 AK Subscriber Subscriber

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    Great idea
     
  8. Oscar23

    Oscar23 AK Subscriber Subscriber

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    so one of those three transistors is either in wrong ( which I'm sure is what happened when d8 blew) blown,or bad trace, I've already know there in right, there brand new so I'm pretty sure there fine, but out of curiosity which way should the front be on q8 facing the heat sink or away from the heatsink? I will get those voltages for you been busy kids have to much stuff to do at Christmas..and I actually understood that I've been trying to get someone to explain the different circuits in a way I understand you should have been a teacher
     
  9. markthefixer

    markthefixer On Hiatus, dealing with Dad's estate full time

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    Q8, ksc2690 ? is a to-126 transistor with an ECB layout. I expect (without checking one of mine) the lettering to more face the heat sink.
    it's specifically aimed at the inside 90 degree CORNER (or R15) of the heat sink. Draw a line between the e and b leads, and extend a perpendicular line in the direction of the collector.

    Q1 (mje15032) is hard to mis install, it's a to-220 that is clamped to the heat sink.It has a BCE layout.

    Q2 and Q3 are both ksc2383, a to-92L case (enlarged, taller to-92 epoxy teardrop) and they are ECB.
    I'd expect both to have their faces (lettering) pointing towards R20 (and the heat sink, but with an "L" shaped heat sink, the definition of to or away from it gets stretched pretty thin).
    That's because the pads for the collectors for these two are behind the lettering face, while q8's collector pad is in front by the lettering.

    gotta find and quote a series of posts on installing transistors....

    this ought to hold you for now:

    hint, when trying to orient the transistor symbol to the transistor itself, rotate the board so that the emitter is to the left and the base is to the right for a transistor that is ECB, then the Collector will be in the middle, either forward of a line between the e and b or behind that line. Bend the center lead to meet the hole...

    in other words, don't twist up your mind trying to rotate it, rotate the board itself, so that everything after that is as easy as falling off a log!!
    ksa992.jpg
     
    Last edited: Dec 19, 2017
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  10. SaturationPt

    SaturationPt Super Member

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    When I restored my SX-950, I installed a bad (I think it was a 2690 but not sure) new OnSemi transistor, and had a runaway voltage out that would go to the flat amp IIRC. Since that experience, I test every new transistor before installing.
     
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  11. Oscar23

    Oscar23 AK Subscriber Subscriber

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    Before I get those voltages I will check the leg placements again to be sure
     
  12. markthefixer

    markthefixer On Hiatus, dealing with Dad's estate full time

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    So do I - it's easier to test before it goes in, than after it is in. And not just transistors (diodes, resistors caps etc..) I trust my suppliers - but I suspect that they are playing the odds too, so I don't. My luck can sometimes turn the laws of probability to silly putty. Six sigma is 3.4 in a million, but that means SOMEONE is gonna get them.
     
  13. Oscar23

    Oscar23 AK Subscriber Subscriber

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    The whole blowout started with a wrong resitors sent. This thing has been a nightmare since. The best part is after mtf tutorial on a Darlington circuit I now know why it caused the blowout.( As mentioned earlier dijjikey did come good for all the blown parts replaced everything. Even though I didn't use the resistors till 3 months after I ordered them)
     
    Last edited: Dec 19, 2017
  14. Oscar23

    Oscar23 AK Subscriber Subscriber

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    Q1 C s/b +66.0v IS: s 34V Raw DC to Darlington series pass element
    Q1 B s/b +56.6v IS: s .6.0V Base drive for Darlington series pass element
    Q1 E s/b +56.0v IS: s 10V Emitter output of Darlington series pass element
    Q2 C s/b +66.0v IS: s19.2 V Raw DC to Darlington gain element
    Q2 B s/b +57.2v IS: s 7.5V Base drive for Darlington gain element
    Q2 E s/b +56.6v IS: s5.9 V Emitter output of Darlington gain element (to Q1 B)
    Q3 C s/b +57.2v IS: s 5.8V control voltage from feedback element
    Q3 B s/b +32.6v IS: s 0.5V divider feedback voltage for feedback element
    Q3 E s/b +32.0v IS: s 0V reference voltage for feedback element
    Here is the first set of voltages if you need me to check any again let me know I see q3 is not getting very much of anything
     
  15. Oscar23

    Oscar23 AK Subscriber Subscriber

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    Q4 C s/b -66.0v IS: s -18.1V Raw DC to Darlington series pass element
    Q4 B s/b -56.6v IS: s- 18.7V Base drive for Darlington series pass element
    Q4 E s/b -56.0v IS: s -19.6V Emitter output of Darlington series pass element
    Q5 C s/b -66.0v IS: s-19.6 V Raw DC to Darlington gain element
    Q5 B s/b -57.2v IS: s-19.4 V Base drive for Darlington gain element
    Q5 E s/b -56.6v IS: s -18.9V Emitter output of Darlington gain element (to Q1 B)
    Q6 C s/b -57.2v IS: s -19.4V control voltage from feedback element
    Q6 B s/b -32.6v IS: s -10.9V divider feedback voltage for feedback element
    Q6 E s/b -32.0v IS: s 0V reference voltage for feedback element
    Here are the negative voltages
     
  16. markthefixer

    markthefixer On Hiatus, dealing with Dad's estate full time

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    tell me about the AC power. those RAW voltages are way too low - not enough for the regulator to function, what is between it's AC plug and the wall socket?
     
    Last edited: Dec 23, 2017
  17. Oscar23

    Oscar23 AK Subscriber Subscriber

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    There a power bar and my dim bulb 100watt when I first turn it on all the voltages are higher a fair bit higher then the bulb goes really bright
     
  18. Oscar23

    Oscar23 AK Subscriber Subscriber

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    I will upload a video of it later on today. Its hard to explain for about a minute there all in close to 25 and 30 volts
     
  19. markthefixer

    markthefixer On Hiatus, dealing with Dad's estate full time

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    If you worked on the amplifiers, OR THE POWER SUPPLY, did you do the idle current set procedure?

    You start out after any work on the unit with the idle current turned off or down to minimum.

    That means setting the idle current pots on both amplifier channels to a measured zero ohms in circuit - that gets minimum idle current and also bypasses any clockwise or counter clockwise confusion.

    From there it called "tickling the dragon's tail".
     
  20. Oscar23

    Oscar23 AK Subscriber Subscriber

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    I tried to its at Zero volts won't move I test all the outputs all good if I get it set will it draw more power from the wall.could have the blowout taken my outputs out to? All the fuses went except the main and 2 transistors went to plastic flew everywhere.
     
    Last edited: Dec 23, 2017

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