Pitiful X-202

dcgillespie

Fisher SA-100 Clone
Subscriber
Couldn't pass up on this puppy. No love for it in a long, long time. In a condition that only Avery could still love. No tubes, no shields, bent up, and complete with pitiful repairs and modifications. But those wonderful (essentially) SA-100 OPTs and PT were good, and the cosmetic issues can be dealt with if I can either find a good front panel, or get this one re-screen.

Since it's a toy, I'm in no rush, and can tinker along with it at whatever pace strikes me. But the potential for this baby is tremendous. It is basically a 400C preamp and an SA-100 power amp glued together on one chassis. Except that it isn't -- because where as the 400C has one fixed internal network to roll off the lowest end garbage, the X-202 -- with Avery's eye ever and always drawn towards console duty for his integrated units -- includes no less than four such networks. The results are basically that the low end performance of the X-202 is well off the mark from what it could hit.

I have no intention of re-engineering this unit as I recently did with the X-1000 recently, but with no chance of this unit ever being charged with console duty, coupled with the superb OPTs on this unit (the best Fisher ever offered in their 7189 offerings), removing these networks will maintain the whole of the Fisher sound from the mid-bass on up throughout the rest of the upper register, while giving the unit some new found freedom to handle today's more demanding low end material.

To that, adding EFB(tm) will cool the unit's operation down significantly (like the SA-100, the X-202 includes the very same bleeder resistor regulation for the output tube screen grids that heats up the underside of the chassis considerably), add some horses in the power output department, drop distortion significantly, and cool the output tubes down with a notably lower required quiescent current draw as well.

Besides righting all of the previous inflicted wrongs to this guy, addressing these two areas of the X-202 should let it still have all the sonic qualities that a Fisher has, except have them on steroids. This plus the longer tube life that EFB will provide should make for one world class X-202 -- even if the front panel won't let it look like it! Pics include:

1. This is the unit after two days of using precision tools (a crow bar), detail tools (a hammer), and gentle coaxing (a few choice words), just so the transformers appear straight, the output tubes don't lean in towards the OPTs, and the can caps (bad as they are) don't look like the leaning tower of Pisa. You know something is up when you have to bend the bottom plate pretty significantly just to get the screws in -- and not because it's hitting something underneath! All appears pretty good now. This was not the fault of the packing or shipper. This has been like this a loooong time.

2. The front panel is toast. No markings left on the selector switch, it's missing some jewels and the jewels it has are in the wrong position, and a lot of pock marks and some outright rust cover the majority of the panel. It works, but if anyone has a line on a good one -- or even a good one that comes attached to an otherwise beater unit, I'd appreciate hearing from them.

3. The knobs are filthy, but based on an initial effort with one, should clean up OK.

4. The cathode jumpers are missing, as is the phase reverse switch wiring, and the remote volume control plug has been hot wired. One benefit is that the (no great loss) damping control wiring has also been removed. Since this feature is never used anyway, this frees up two terminals in each channel to use as cathode test points so that the DC balance controls can be accurately set with a meter, without any physical modifications to the unit, rather than setting it by ear.

5. The repair work in the power supply is, well, something else to be sure. One section in the main can cap went bad (love that ooze), so we put in one new section in to fix it. Like those air connections? Both the terminal strips that the two B+ power resistors are connected to are broken, but what the heck, one still works, and an air connection works for the other. The bias supply components have all been replaced, so dependability should be guaranteed -- to fail for certain! At least there is silicon in the bridge now anyway, but the air connected sand dropping resistors and the goofy filter cap replacement components/installation all speak for themselves. However, there are somewhat new (as in newer than the original) output stage coupling caps! Finally, the removed cover on the power switch tells that tale, while hopefully, the 12A 32 volt fuse installed was only used to ensure that the power transformer actually did work (it does).

So, this thing was in need for a good home for sure. Oh yeah. It hasn't got any feet either. Anybody got a line on some good replacements?

Comments welcome as anyone sees fit.

Dave
 

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Precision tools are sometimes called for!

In my opinion it is still worth getting into a usable state. I always wonder what in the world was going through the minds of those that hack these things. I am for ever amazed at the... well for a less offensive word..."creativity" of some people. I am glad to see it found its way to a good home instead of the landfill.

I will need feet for my 400 as well. I was going to look to see what Mouser has to offer.
 
To paraphrase T.R......Test Quietly, but carry a BIG HAMMER! Go get 'em Dave! If past history is any indication, in 3-4 months that will be the best running X202 out there.
 
Doin' the Tighten Up!

One of the neatest things about the X-202 series of amplifiers (through the B version), the X-1000 series, and the 400C series of preamps is the volume control -- and particularly so in the X-202 and high powered X-1000. All of these units represent what some complain about as Fisher's excessive complexity and over-engineering, but there was a beautiful trade off in this particular case.

Because the controls in these units employ dual loudness taps, their channel to channel tracking is much improved over that of single tap designs. The control in this unit is no different (tracking within 1%) -- despite the obviously "rode hard and put up wet" appearance this unit has. With their dual tap design, typically only the bottom tap actually serves the traditional loudness function of providing bass and treble boost. But the top tap aids in the process by serving (along with the bottom tap) to help achieve the desired overall control action regarding change in volume level versus degree of control rotation -- which is a part of the loudness equation as well. The use of these dual taps also helps to equalize the audio signal presented along the wiper track within the control. The result is that the same amount of absolute volume change is available through out the full rotation of the control, but loudness action is enhanced, as is channel tracking as well.

This was a big enough deal that advertising for the X-202 back in the day actually touted how its volume control design virtually guaranteed perfect channel tracking -- and to a large extent, it does. This is just one more of those little things that makes a Fisher, a Fisher!

But in the X-202 and high powered X-1000 units, these controls are even neater, since they, and their AC on-off switch are then piggybacked onto a rotary switch that turns the loudness function on and off. At the knob then, the inner knob is on-off and volume, while the outer ring is the loudness on-off switch. How neat is that?

In this unit however, somebody tried to get the broken AC power switch off of this control stack, and in doing so, basically tore the loudness wafer switch apart. Their answer to all of this was to solder a solid wire to the ground terminal on the back of the volume control, and pull it tight to a ground point down low in the chassis and in front of the control, in effect, holding it together when it was mounted in place. The effect of this however, is that the wafer of the loudness switch became disengaged from the shank that rotates it (so it wouldn't work), and the "pushed in" shaft for the volume knob was so short that its knob had trouble staying in place, and was difficult to turn when it would stay in place. Finally, the three sided channel that the front mounting shank attaches to resembled more of a "U" rather well formed square angled piece (from all the tugging and prying to get the power switch off), which is what allowed the loudness switch to fall apart, and the overall control to be very lose and sloppy. What a bummer.

So, out comes the control stack, which basically fell apart once removed. The power switch was removed, to await a new one on order, and the front channel frame was reformed back into a squared off piece again. Everything was cleaned and lubricated, and reassembled properly again, but this time, the damaged through connectors holding the loudness switch and the volume control assembly together were soldered in place. Problem solved. The integrity of the assembly is now actually better than when new, and certainly functions like it. The loudness switch works properly, the volume control shaft turns smoothly and easily (as they do in Fishers), and the entire assembly now functions as one solid piece. All that is needed now is a new power switch to complete the repair. The external components will be checked/replaced as necessary of course. But its great that this control assembly could be saved, as it is really one of Fisher's great features achievements. We all know about how poor the tracking is of most of the single tap controls. And while some of this may in fact be due to age and use, a good part of it is simply that the tracking was never that good to begin with. With these dual tapped units however, the tracking accuracy achieved really is quite amazing.

Continuing with the no love theme, the selector switch was allowed to become quite loose, with basically only all of its electrical connections holding it into position. Over time then, its terminals all became bent and distorted from the tugging and pulling on them. Tightening up the switch mounting nut, and the nut holding it into its saddle made the switch mounting quite firm again, and then time detailing all the bent terminals put the switch back in good physical condition again. Finally, a good cleaning has it back in action then, too.

Whatever relationship this unit was in with some previous owner sure went south, and in a bad way. Little by little though........

Pics:

1. A shot of the repaired loudness switch/volume control assembly showing the through shafts soldered in place to the ground plate.

2. Same thing on the other side. For all you folks with any unit employing these assemblies that are still in good shape, it might be a good idea to go ahead and solder the through shafts to strengthen the assembly after years of use.

3. The selector switch after some much needed attention. With all the the caps on this switch and indeed through out much of the small signal circuits being ceramic, it is a low priority to change them out now. The biggest goal at this point is to get this unit running again, with as many usable components that Avery built into it. The power supply caps are another thing however.......

Dave
 

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Oh, my. I'm sure you'll be able to save it. Personally, I love my 202--even more so since you helped me out with the adjustments. It's a fine performer and rife with period switches and controls (phase, reverse stereo for those "oops" early stereo mistakes, etc.) Only complaint I have is there's only one AUX port that I'm using for MPX. One more and I'd have a CD player hooked up.

The volume control--been there. Mine was beginning to fail so I contacted Mark Oppat. I sent him mine and he dug through his stock and found the parts to recreate this Dodo. He told me he has enough stock to reproduce about 20 of them.

Forgot to mention that an X202 recently went for $825 on a certain auction site which made me feel a bit better about the investment.

If you need the Sam's, let me know!
 
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Walyfd -- On the rear of the unit, the Tuner, Tape, and Aux input jacks are all high level input jacks of identical sensitivity. Since your MPX is associated with a tuner, plug those cables into the Tuner inputs, and source that input with the selector switch set to Tuner. Then, you can use the Aux jacks for your CD player.

The Tape inputs (not Tape Head) are also high level inputs that can be accessed by setting the selector switch to Tape Play. These could be used for any other line level signals you wish to play through your unit. Additionally, these inputs can also have their levels adjusted by the miniature Tape level controls on the rear of the unit as well. These are used to help equalize the level of your input sources, so that they all present the same sound level for a given master volume control setting.

Thanks for the offer for the Sams -- I've got one!

Dave
 
Ever So Slowly......

Some new life is being breathed back into this poor guy.

With the chassis straightened up and the volume/loudness control all repaired now (except for the AC power switch yet), the B+ supply was the next target. The original pic of this area told the tale, so out came the old primary can cap, the "fix" cap for it previously installed, the relatively-new-but-poorly-installed-power resistors feeding it, the charred portion of the terminal strips those resistors (were supposed to have) connected to, and the charred wiring connected to them.

For a variety of reasons, the objective of this exercise is to first get this unit running again, but also, to get it running while maintaining as many of the original components (that are still dependably good) as possible. This means right down to using as much of the original wire even as possible. When that is accomplished, I'll let my sonic impressions set in for a while, and then consider the two modifications mention in the first post, but those will be the only ones up for consideration down the road.

Pics include:

1. The junk removed so far.

2. The revised B+ supply layout. Since the original two terminal strips used for mounting the dual power resistors were irreparably damaged where the original resistors were connected to, those portions were cut out, with the remainder of those strips cleaned up. Since they were riveted in place, and/or duplicates would not be easily obtainable, I simply mounted two additional strips to install the resistors 90 degrees from that of their original installation, but still well away from the output stage/rectifier tube area to spread the heat producing components out underneath the chassis, as originally intended.

3. During some late night digging (very deep digging) in the junk box produced eight workable tube shields to clean up, and a cover for the dummy plug (I now have thanks to Audiodon) for use when the remote volume control option is not used. With that, I can remove that plug's hot wiring by a previous owner.

Next, making some sense out of that mess providing output tube bias and DC heater power for the small signal tubes.......

Dave
 

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Excellent! Thanks for chronicling this here. While I don't have an X-202, I do have a couple other Fisher's that I need to get after. Threads like this are informational AND inspirational-in. Keep up the good work!
 
My 500B had the dummy plug bypassed as the tech said I'd NEVER find a remote. Well, I did and it's plugged into the 202 but I'd like to be able to try it on the 500. That's a winter project.

As for the hookups--my tape inputs are used with the r2r. The tuner also feeds into it to record from the radio so I jumped the MPX into the AUX so I still have AM, FM, and the simulcast ability (one talk station broadcasts on AM and FM here). This way, I can record from AM, FM mono and the MPX. The other thing they could have included was a dedicated MPX switch on the amp and dump one of the RIAAs. I'll never use 2 phonographs. I didn't want to alter the original console wiring too much.
 
OK. So if I am understanding you correctly, you are using the Tuner inputs for the AM and FM outputs of your tuner, the Aux inputs for the output of your MPX adapter, and the Tape Play inputs for the output of your R2R when listening to tapes.

One thing you might consider instead is connecting the output of your R2R to the Tape Monitor inputs, and use that for tape playback. That would free up the Tape inputs for use with a CD or other high level source.

The idea (at the time) for the dual phono inputs, was that while RIAA 1 could be used with a turntable on the RIAA 1 setting, the thought was that input could also (and likely) be used with a changer for playing 78 records -- hence the 78 EQ setting available for that set of inputs. When the 78 setting is used, only the left channel phono preamp contains that EQ capability, with the idea of then using the mode switch to let Channel A play out of both speakers. RIAA 2 then was specifically for use with a modern turntable for playing modern LPs with that EQ, as no other EQ setting is available for that set of inputs. Otherwise however, there is no electrical difference between RIAA 1 and RIAA 2 when RIAA 1 is set to that position.

Dave
 
FWIW -- I'm relatively sure that you would not like the sound produced from your 500B using the remote control volume option. The X-202 through 202B, X-1000, and 400CX units were all designed from the ground up with this option in mind, where as frankly, the 500B was not. Oh don't get me wrong, it will "work" on your 500B, but you will lose a significant amount of LF response in using it.

The remote volume control unit uses rather low value pots in it so as to not lose a lot of HF information over the (relatively) long connecting cable to it. But low value pots then need a substantial drive capability to adequately drive such pots on the LF end. The above integrated and preamp units have that capability, where as your 500B really does not.

Unless they made a separate remote control unit for the 500B that employed higher value pots, use of the original device as designed for the earlier pieces will suck a lot of LF energy out of your 500B's performance.

Dave
 
Given that the faceplate is toast, might I suggest a modern reinterpretation of the Fisher X-202 by way of Front Panel Express? Use the existing panel as the template for a modern anodized aluminum panel (maybe in red!) with engraved, rather than painted-on, markings. You could even drill the panel for the jewel function. :yes:

At the very least, it would be unique.

-D
 
Dave,

Well you know what "Rat Rods" are I am sure. I happen to be one of those people that think sometimes the charm of a unit is the journey it took through life that is shown in its face.

The back end I know you will get the electronics working like a fine swiss watch. Just understand that as pitiful as this one looks. Sometimes the aged unique look is good.

Frannie
 
Frannie -- I appreciate your words of wisdom more than you know -- and they are so true! I have some pieces that are pristine, but the well used look also shows its own form of love over time. It's kind of like you want one or the other, but hate to have a unit that is perfect except for one fatal flaw -- or isn't quite worn enough to know its had a long, well used history. This one is definitely the latter. I'm beginning to think it was well loved for a long, long time, but some hack didn't give it any respect with the repairs done to it. I am loath to criticize others, but the before pics simply speak for themselves in this case. I'm really coming around to the point of it is what it is, from all the service it has provided over the years. My goal then is to clean it up, do only some very limited but worthwhile and practical modifications, and then enjoy the heck out of it for what it is, as it is.

Thanks for chiming in! I think you just settled the issue!

Dave
 
:lurk:Dave,
I know its not your style, but if you made an instructional video of your methods and why explanations it'd be pricless to your students here.
 
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