Plumbing help needed

So I had a plumber over to take a look. This guy said he'd have to come back since I "ovalled" that stem nut. $700-$800 to install whole new shower setup (if I buy it), $1,100 to put his in with anti scalding. I do not have a shower outlet now - it's an old setup off fawcett with hose up to shower unit.

I'd like to weigh my options here before throwing good money after bad here.

Any trick to get that ovalled piece off so I can at least block leak? There are no shutoff valves I can find. Here is pic of that closet access. Was hoping to see shut off.

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Wish I'd seen that before I used adjustable wrench

i cant open the picture so i cant see how much of the stem nut is damaged, but they are pretty deep so if you were using an adjustable wrench there should still be enough good to get a socket wrench on it, they sell them a all hardware stores i dont know the size off hand of the one you need though, they have kits with all sizes also. http://www.homedepot.com/p/HDX-Shower-Valve-Wrench-Set-UWP0001J/204284870 a picture would be helpful. if the stem nut is outside the wall and not inside you could use a pipe wrench or channel lock on it, if you have access from the rear you can do the same from there. if the stem is not completely frozen in you could try a pipe wrench directly on the stem you will for sure ruin the stem and maybe break it off but it might just twist it out.
 
i cant open the picture so i cant see how much of the stem nut is damaged, but they are pretty deep so if you were using an adjustable wrench there should still be enough good to get a socket wrench on it, they sell them a all hardware stores i dont know the size off hand of the one you need though, they have kits with all sizes also. http://www.homedepot.com/p/HDX-Shower-Valve-Wrench-Set-UWP0001J/204284870 a picture would be helpful. if the stem nut is outside the wall and not inside you could use a pipe wrench or channel lock on it, if you have access from the rear you can do the same from there. if the stem is not completely frozen in you could try a pipe wrench directly on the stem you will for sure ruin the stem and maybe break it off but it might just twist it out.
 

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you definitely did a good job of smashing it. if you remove the tile around it and maybe a few more if needed that will give you another 1/4 inch out of the wall and you might get a small pipe wrench 12 inch maybe to lock on it if you keep it close to the wall. make sure you are turning it counter clockwise. i cant see inside how much of the nut is left and if it is still squared you would need about 1/2 inch still squared for the socket wrench to work, if you can get a pipe wrench to grip it that should work for sure pipe wrenches bite into the pipe and are meant for round pipes, just make sure it locks on and is not slipping around, you might have to adust it a few times to get it right and turn it hard, probaby cost about $20-25 for a cheap wrench. and $40 for the rebuild kit and you will have a new faucet. i cant imagine a plumber couldnt get that out, but i cant see inside maybe there is not enough pipe left. if there is an inch the pipe wrench should work

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Well there's plenty of square left to get the supplied wrench on. Used big screwdriver for leverage. I got it to turn about a 1/4 turn and it just won't budge further. Do I need to heat up the back piece?
 

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its a Gerber ive fixed hundreds of them, pretty common stems Ace would have them, home depot at least a year ago- has complete rebuild kits for about $30 stems, seats , handles, excussions. if you buy just the stem a seat will come with it, make sure you put thread tape or pipe dope on the seat thread or water will leak through the threads. you can buy a seat wrench to put them in its a tool that looks like an L , they are not expensive.

You know I just asked guy at HD and he said no tape. I thought it would be good idea.

I'm starting to think that whole back manifold is going to have to come off!
 
You know I just asked guy at HD and he said no tape. I thought it would be good idea.

I'm starting to think that whole back manifold is going to have to come off!

you should be able to do everything from the front if you get the stem out if you cant then that would be a way to get a wrench on it, ask the guy at HD how many seats he has replaced, i have done hundreds, before i started putting pipe dope on them i would get a slow drip once in a while since i started putting dope/tape on on them and have had no drips, it takes an extra 5 seconds a seat, if there is a drip you have to pull everything apart again not even worth thinking about for me i hate redoing things.
 
I can get the wrench applied in Kit on it fine. I just can't turn it. I know I'm not as strong as I used to be but dam!

I was thinking maybe nuts on water pipe into manifold may be easier to remove?

More than likely I need a plumber who won't rip me off.
 
I can get the wrench applied in Kit on it fine. I just can't turn it. I know I'm not as strong as I used to be but dam!

I was thinking maybe nuts on water pipe into manifold may be easier to remove?

More than likely I need a plumber who won't rip me off.

are you using the rod that comes with the socket if one comes with it to turn the socket wrench? if so use a pipe wrench or channel lock to turn the socket instead you just need some leverage and force but it will turn as long as the socket is gripping the stem and not slipping. also when you replace the stems make sure you put the round gasket supplied on the stem first you dont put thread tape or dope on the stem threads
 
Well there's plenty of square left to get the supplied wrench on. Used big screwdriver for leverage. I got it to turn about a 1/4 turn and it just won't budge further. Do I need to heat up the back piece?

i didnt see this before, if you got it to move it should come out just try a wrench instead of the screw driver
 
Ok will try again. I need to get tape or dope so will go to store tomorrow.

The good news is by turning it a bit it almost stopped leak
 
And now that I think of it guy at HD said no tape on stem not seat. Is that correct?
 
Work it back and forth (loosen-tighten). A lot of times that will clear corrosion out of the threads and let it loosen properly.
 
And now that I think of it guy at HD said no tape on stem not seat. Is that correct?

yes- no tape on stem use the gasket- but put tape on seat- also when you put the new stem in make sure it is retracted not extended or the washer could press against the seat too hard when you are tightening it
 
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