Polk audio SDA 2s?

I'm pretty sure my supply source is adequate.
I do have the original interconnect mine is 1 blade and 1 pin. You are for sure correct as to the difference with and without. The sound stage is a entirely different with hooked up compaired to not. I have several pairs of unique speakers and I enjoy them all. I have been researching the Sda -2 which these are. I originally thought they were early versions
But discovered that was not the case. They are keepers for sure. I have discovered that there are some definite do's and dont's in respect to mods. I will plan to do the polk guided mods to ensure the original engineering is used as these simply would be real easy to be a bit off and risk a severe melt down. I do enjoy them as they are but I realize that they have alot more potential than they are able to do with what I am assuming are a tired crossover. I also have read that there are a few different tweeters that can be used and will try to stay with current wave. I think they got them pretty much right from the get go and upgrade will be better components in crossover there is something to be said about progress. I have several irons in the fire at this moment so they are third or forth down my todo list. I took several years off from a hobby I had forgotten how fulfilling it is. My wife calls it something else but I think she has settled in with the fact I am what I am. It is pretty cool to discover a speaker that I had no idea even existed. I still have 2 pair of Klipsch that are in use pretty much every day but I have downsized as its getting tougher to move the big stuff. I went from corners I bought in 77 to a pair of klf30s then my daughter moved home for a short time ( not so short) with a 1 year old so in order to keep curiosity from damage I moved thoae into the master. I know a bit of overkill to say the least. I sold them and did well on the turn but about 2 days later I was fiending for my klipsch so I picked up a set of kg-4s ok but not doing it for me picked up a set of km-4 ok but still not so they went to new homes and I found a minty set of cherry cf-2s and thats where I have held for some time now .I have always loved a horn and have a few in that configuration. I then had a set of walsh ohms come to me in a barter deal. I really had no expectations in respect to these funny little R2-D2 things. Well I was in for a big surprise they are some of the most accurate speakers I have ever heard and on top of that in my main listening room it does not matter where you are it sounds as if you are at the point the sweet spot reference for almost all speakers ever built. Again definitely keepers. They say its tough to teach an old do new tricks but when I can stand in a line on the out side of either speaker and still have perfect 2 channel definition I admit its a different age of design than I was accustomed to. I still have plenty of old school rockers but I now have some new design (to me at least ) that simply get better every time I listen. I have found quite a following after the Polks but not a whole lot on the ohms. I highly recommend if you have a chance do take the time to audition them. Thanks again for the info and be sure I will be all over it. Have a great weekend! Jason
 
Well, we seem to have a lot in common speaker taste wise. I always coveted Ohm/Walsh 2xo but never had the the cash to get them. Would also love your CF-2 or KFL-20s. I did own Ohm model L book enders which were great but I did flip them. As for Klipsch I also wanted either Forte or KG-4s and I currently have Klipsch H/T #400 smalls for home theater which are not horns. Klipsch does have a following but also many haters saying they are way to bright and fatiguing. Your cross-overs are old and should be changed out if you could afford it. Another problematic piece on the x-over is the poly switch which was meant to protect the tweeters but become bad and fail and many replace them w/ a Mills 0.5 resistor or jump them out which might be why your sound is off. It's the whole package w/ set-up, the right amp and preamp and good sources. AVRs don't work w/ SDA and receivers generally do not have enough power. The pin blade i/c cable goes to a specific generation of 2Bs I think only the pin carries the signal and the blade is there for support. You are right in there are 2 tweeters for the 2bs. The RDO194 I put in or the 198TL mod which needs a resistor change in the x-over and is more cash and I didn't think that I would hear that much of a difference so I went w/ the 194s. This is where the Polk masters will know what is right for your set.
If these are your keepers I strongly suggest you join the Polk Forum for just about all questions you might have concerning both your 2Bs or any other Polk product. I did forget one other mod I did and must add it to the list which was sealing the cabinets w/ Liquid Nails again for air tight worthiness. You to on the weekend and let us know of the progress you have w/ the Polks.....Lew
 
Those are the mirror image if mine the drivers are dated
JUNE 1989 also the day.but my memory is not as it used to be. I see very few that look like yours or mine
I pretty much had mine land with me and originally had planned to flip. I did some quick research and found that about the interconnect.
I went to meet the seller and it turned out his mother was the original owner and all pieces were there including the interconnect. I still was unaware what I had just been entrusted. With. The cabs were in perfect condition other than the side wraps were detaching so first things first I did a quick cosmetic clean up and than tried them out one of the 03 drivers was in serious need of rebuild so I did some searching hoping to find one used for sale. I discovered sire they were all over and frozen up as to the epoxy failing and locking the voice coil up. I check all the usual places bit was starting to realize these were a different animal. I called Polk. They had a replacment to me in 3 days and assured me that slight appearence difference it would be a sonic match. I of course have the basket I removed so if I decide to update, refurbish I have the option to use the originals or simply purchase from polk
The "upgraded versions" Polk audio was over the top helpful and sold the driver far less than any other source bar none. On top if that no shipping! Florida to washington state on my doorstep 3 days. So what do I have in these as far as model? In what I have found they are SDA-2 B series of the desired year. Am I pretty much spot on. The primary reason for rebuild is at sustaind 30 watts they will muffle for no apparent reason and when power is backed off will come back clean. I am thinking the caps on the crossovers are tired. So sorry for all the history but that pretty much brings all up to date. I have many other higher end vintage gear and many sets of unique speakers. I love them all and most will reside with me until I am not a capable caregiver. I do however believe that they should be correct and that is my goal. Thank you and I will go over all info I can find. I am getting.the impression that polk is and will be there every step. Thanks so much! Again sorry for the ramble ,Nemo
(Jason.B)

First off call them by their proper model. You have SDA 2B's. Secondly, the problem you're having is related to the polyswitch. There's one on each crossover. It's a thermal reset device and yours are worn out as in they have been tripped too many times and have become hypersensitive.

So, I suggest you get over to the Polk forum and search for 2BTL. That should bring up all the mods you can do, which will be worth every penny. One tip, use Sonicap or Clarity caps and Mills resistors. Stay away from Dayton and Solen.
 
My first Polks were SDA-2's I bought new in early 1987. I took them back to the dealer and got a pair of SDA-1's I still own. I powered them with a BGW 7500 Proline II and they loved the power of the BGW. That being said I've had them in storage for several years now and am debating what to do with them because I prefer my EV Sentry III's and 500's to them.
 
My first Polks were SDA-2's I bought new in early 1987. I took them back to the dealer and got a pair of SDA-1's I still own. I powered them with a BGW 7500 Proline II and they loved the power of the BGW. That being said I've had them in storage for several years now and am debating what to do with them because I prefer my EV Sentry III's and 500's to them.

If you had the 2B's and traded them for 1C's that's too bad as you already had the better speaker.
 
If you had the 2B's and traded them for 1C's that's too bad as you already had the better speaker.
Well, we seem to have a lot in common speaker taste wise. I always coveted Ohm/Walsh 2xo but never had the the cash to get them. Would also love your CF-2 or KFL-20s. I did own Ohm model L book enders which were great but I did flip them. As for Klipsch I also wanted either Forte or KG-4s and I currently have Klipsch H/T #400 smalls for home theater which are not horns. Klipsch does have a following but also many haters saying they are way to bright and fatiguing. Your cross-overs are old and should be changed out if you could afford it. Another problematic piece on the x-over is the poly switch which was meant to protect the tweeters but become bad and fail and many replace them w/ a Mills 0.5 resistor or jump them out which might be why your sound is off. It's the whole package w/ set-up, the right amp and preamp and good sources. AVRs don't work w/ SDA and receivers generally do not have enough power. The pin blade i/c cable goes to a specific generation of 2Bs I think only the pin carries the signal and the blade is there for support. You are right in there are 2 tweeters for the 2bs. The RDO194 I put in or the 198TL mod which needs a resistor change in the x-over and is more cash and I didn't think that I would hear that much of a difference so I went w/ the 194s. This is where the Polk masters will know what is right for your set.
If these are your keepers I strongly suggest you join the Polk Forum for just about all questions you might have concerning both your 2Bs or any other Polk product. I did forget one other mod I did and must add it to the list which was sealing the cabinets w/ Liquid Nails again for air tight worthiness. You to on the weekend and let us know of the progress you have w/ the Polks.....Lew
Awesome info and all I needed. I had a hunch that more than likely the root problem as all other components appear sound. I do indeed have a bit of a list ahead of these but it will happen. Thanks so much ,Jason
 
Well, we seem to have a lot in common speaker taste wise. I always coveted Ohm/Walsh 2xo but never had the the cash to get them. Would also love your CF-2 or KFL-20s. I did own Ohm model L book enders which were great but I did flip them. As for Klipsch I also wanted either Forte or KG-4s and I currently have Klipsch H/T #400 smalls for home theater which are not horns. Klipsch does have a following but also many haters saying they are way to bright and fatiguing. Your cross-overs are old and should be changed out if you could afford it. Another problematic piece on the x-over is the poly switch which was meant to protect the tweeters but become bad and fail and many replace them w/ a Mills 0.5 resistor or jump them out which might be why your sound is off. It's the whole package w/ set-up, the right amp and preamp and good sources. AVRs don't work w/ SDA and receivers generally do not have enough power. The pin blade i/c cable goes to a specific generation of 2Bs I think only the pin carries the signal and the blade is there for support. You are right in there are 2 tweeters for the 2bs. The RDO194 I put in or the 198TL mod which needs a resistor change in the x-over and is more cash and I didn't think that I would hear that much of a difference so I went w/ the 194s. This is where the Polk masters will know what is right for your set.
If these are your keepers I strongly suggest you join the Polk Forum for just about all questions you might have concerning both your 2Bs or any other Polk product. I did forget one other mod I did and must add it to the list which was sealing the cabinets w/ Liquid Nails again for air tight worthiness. You to on the weekend and let us know of the progress you have w/ the Polks.....Lew
The klfs were the 30s. I posted 6 hours and first call took full price. He had been looking 5 years for the right set. I had indeed searched and only had found 1 set for sale in U.S. and they had been "restored" so that can mean alot of things as you know. The ohms were taken in a partial trade and as I said I really had no idea what I got. I again will keep them in my stable. I am using a fresh build KR-9600
For the SDA-2Bs it currently is most power available I currently have up and running. I am in process of restoration, correction my go to guy is rebuilding a Sansui G-9709 for me so that will give a bit of a power bump over the kenwood. I do use the Klipsch cf-2s along with Klipsch ref 1V rb61 and matched center and sub for HT. I only use 2 channel for music however and not on this system. I have indeed accumulated alot of stuff through either Barter or plain good eyes at estate of moving sales. At this time all is S.S. gear but if the right opportunity comes up and I am quick enough that could change. I missed a mint Mac system on offer up reading 1 owner mint ( don't recall model #s) perfect haven't used in many years first offer takes) I cried myself to sleep that night as I truly believe it was exactly as advertised and images indicated. He along with components had 2 desirable sets of vintage JBLs listed same way. All gone in seconds. I have to much time on my hands and primarily trade for tech and barter gear for gear. I don't eat much so it works out pretty good. If a set of OHM 4s ever come your way I suggest you find a way as you will not be dissapointed its rather amusing when some one walks in to my listening space and they are on as they always pick every other speaker as being current source. I love the look of dis belief when I point out where the sound is really coming from, enjoy and thanks for the clarification! Nemo
 
The klfs were the 30s. I posted 6 hours and first call took full price. He had been looking 5 years for the right set. I had indeed searched and only had found 1 set for sale in U.S. and they had been "restored" so that can mean alot of things as you know. The ohms were taken in a partial trade and as I said I really had no idea what I got. I again will keep them in my stable. I am using a fresh build KR-9600
For the SDA-2Bs it currently is most power available I currently have up and running. I am in process of restoration, correction my go to guy is rebuilding a Sansui G-9709 for me so that will give a bit of a power bump over the kenwood. I do use the Klipsch cf-2s along with Klipsch ref 1V rb61 and matched center and sub for HT. I only use 2 channel for music however and not on this system. I have indeed accumulated alot of stuff through either Barter or plain good eyes at estate of moving sales. At this time all is S.S. gear but if the right opportunity comes up and I am quick enough that could change. I missed a mint Mac system on offer up reading 1 owner mint ( don't recall model #s) perfect haven't used in many years first offer takes) I cried myself to sleep that night as I truly believe it was exactly as advertised and images indicated. He along with components had 2 desirable sets of vintage JBLs listed same way. All gone in seconds. I have to much time on my hands and primarily trade for tech and barter gear for gear. I don't eat much so it works out pretty good. If a set of OHM 4s ever come your way I suggest you find a way as you will not be dissapointed its rather amusing when some one walks in to my listening space and they are on as they always pick every other speaker as being current source. I love the look of dis belief when I point out where the sound is really coming from, enjoy and thanks for the clarification! Nemo
Correction G-9700 the 0 and the 9 are to close....
 
Nemo, as I thought the resident Polk scholar F-1 did chime in. While not as long winded or rambling like the 2 of us is a fountain of info albeit in very short succinct answers. I did mention the Poly switch which protects the tweeters and could be the root cause of your sound to be off. He said as I did to go over to the Polk site and under the Vintage Speakers banner there are all kinds of Stickies that pertain just to SDAs. I mentioned the KLF-10/20s because I wanted them not to compare your 30s which are way to big. F-1 was the guy who helped me bleach my tops as he is a pro wood worker as well as a Polk laureate. Again d/l the SDA Handbook which will give you much info your looking for or just to digest among other stuff I said. I should have confirmed you own 2Bs quicker. If you have $100 to spend change out your old sl2000 tweets to the rdo-194s (call Polk c/s) and either replace the Poly switch w/ the resistor mentioned or some people if the legs are long enough just jump them out temp until they get into the x-over upgrade.
One real warning, if you ask for advice over on the Polk Forum and then either do not use said info or be overly antagonistic they will stick an ice pick in your hand (very dramatic) for they hate trolls. Extremely knowledgeable people over there as it is a specific brand site unlike here where just about all speakers can be discussed in depth or any other device. If you decide the x-overs are to much for you to tackle I do suggest getting in touch w/ DHS speaker services who now only concentrates on x-overs of all Polk models...Here's a link to Daves E-BAY site where he lays out many options to rehab your SDA or any Polk x-over. I think he stepped back from actual spkr repair but has shifted his business model to concentrate on x-overs. Again easy to talk to and will give you advice on his many options that can bring your speakers into the 21st century. I can't praise Dave's work enough and some people here at AK do know of him......Lew

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Polk-Cross...-Vintage-Monitor-SDA-RTA-Series-/230816699940
 
Nemo, as I thought the resident Polk scholar F-1 did chime in. While not as long winded or rambling like the 2 of us is a fountain of info albeit in very short succinct answers. I did mention the Poly switch which protects the tweeters and could be the root cause of your sound to be off. He said as I did to go over to the Polk site and under the Vintage Speakers banner there are all kinds of Stickies that pertain just to SDAs. I mentioned the KLF-10/20s because I wanted them not to compare your 30s which are way to big. F-1 was the guy who helped me bleach my tops as he is a pro wood worker as well as a Polk laureate. Again d/l the SDA Handbook which will give you much info your looking for or just to digest among other stuff I said. I should have confirmed you own 2Bs quicker. If you have $100 to spend change out your old sl2000 tweets to the rdo-194s (call Polk c/s) and either replace the Poly switch w/ the resistor mentioned or some people if the legs are long enough just jump them out temp until they get into the x-over upgrade.
One real warning, if you ask for advice over on the Polk Forum and then either do not use said info or be overly antagonistic they will stick an ice pick in your hand (very dramatic) for they hate trolls. Extremely knowledgeable people over there as it is a specific brand site unlike here where just about all speakers can be discussed in depth or any other device. If you decide the x-overs are to much for you to tackle I do suggest getting in touch w/ DHS speaker services who now only concentrates on x-overs of all Polk models...Here's a link to Daves E-BAY site where he lays out many options to rehab your SDA or any Polk x-over. I think he stepped back from actual spkr repair but has shifted his business model to concentrate on x-overs. Again easy to talk to and will give you advice on his many options that can bring your speakers into the 21st century. I can't praise Dave's work enough and some people here at AK do know of him......Lew

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Polk-Cross...-Vintage-Monitor-SDA-RTA-Series-/230816699940
Thank you Leftfielder! I am gratefully for any and all info be it constructive criticism or plain old no...not gonna work. I have already done business with Polk direct and had awesome C.S. and will for sure return for further parts as required. I am indeed a penny puncher but I also realize that one tends to get what they pay for. I am more likely to skip a meal or two than cheapen a build. I am curious as to what a ball park $ will need to do all?Am I best to send crossover out or by components and have it built by my sound engineer? If these were any other speaker (for the most part) I would let him do what he does as all are reborn vastly improved from original. I want these to retain all they started as from Polk labs plus the proper advances technology has made possible. I feel that as M. Polk had a direction that was unlike any other and In my research continued to improve upon I would like to only follow the known path. I have found in many instances if it'snot broke don't fix it. I listen to almost all music with all tone flat. I am hoping to simply bring these up to date both in health and present day potential. I will go back to the company site as they seem to have some pretty clear direction as to parts including manufacturers that are best for application. I really had not taken some detail in to consideration prior to this so I consider myself as green as a seedling. The insight I receive is taken as intended. I try not.to let my feelings get hurt as I would more than likely would have my face in a pillow all the time. I if I can figure out will try and follow your link. I have a guy coming by for a set of 501s Every little bit of space helps. I Stevie Ray is motivation at the moment! thanks Nemo151889520960775266905.jpg
 
Mine are SDA-1's, the B and C came later. There was no A, B or C designation on any of them at that point in time. They're keeping my JBL L100's, EV FR200's, a few different smaller Klipsch and other speakers company in my basement collecting dust.
 
B Bluz, My speakers on their backs also had no exact labeling w/ it being a 2 so I did ask the Polk Forumites what exactly I had.Your bsmt demotion is normal because they tend to do that because no other speaker sounds like them. Some call it the SDA 'effect' which F-1 does not like it to be called. Here some call it a holographic sound that does envelopes you and I think it is the fore runner of surround before that was even invented because the music sounds like it's coming from over there and then oh no,no it's over there. I had 6 working sets of spkrs in my living room and did rotate them but went back to my 2Bs and realized they were not getting enough play time and I had to move them on so others could enjoy them.
Nemo, as for pre amplifiers F-1 think they are 'evil' and would side w/ you running them flat. I run my NAD 1020a at the 12:00 settings and the volume at about 11 for the Advents as they need that power. The 2Bs are newer ( modern x-overs) are more efficient so the volume settings tend to be lower. around 10:00 then things start to shake. IF IMG_4454[2].jpg IMG_4457[1].jpg my eyes don't deceive me I think I see Bose 501s and Ohm/Walsh 2. Again the commonality between us continues, I had Bose series I 601s and loved them and always wanted O/W 2xo.
Now only in my living I have Advent Maestros and front and center Polk SDA 2Bs
 
Mine are SDA-1's, the B and C came later. There was no A, B or C designation on any of them at that point in time. They're keeping my JBL L100's, EV FR200's, a few different smaller Klipsch and other speakers company in my basement collecting dust.

Ah ok, you have the side by side tweeters, one being dimensional and one stereo. That dimensional tweeter imparts a phasey effect. Polk corrected that issue in later models by doing away with dimensional tweeters. Try disconnecting your dimensional tweeters, I think you'll find the speakers will sound a lot better.
 
IMO, placement is the most important aspect of the SDA line. Lots of room on each side is absolutely required. Your listening position is also important.

To spend a ton of money updated them and then cram them into a small area is silly.
 
Quite true. General rules on placement are as I know of them.
1. 3 foot clearance on all 4 sides
2. No tow in or out ( defeats sound stage there'r known for)
3. A spread of not much more than 10'
4. Spike the bottoms to couple/decople from floor ( my case stomach pains all through my couch through floor joices)
5.Make certain all drivers are in phase
6.I/C cable should be of same quality of spkr wire used ( 16gu or lower)
7. Change out old Blade/blade or pin/blade set up for Neutrik/speakon connectors ( better dimensional sound)
8.Powerful enough amp w/ current to match
9. Make sure amp is common gnd or smoke will billow from either amp or spkrs or both
10. Change out Tweeters unless they are ok w/ you and your in the minority..
Now seating placement, I have my spkrs at about 7/8' spread w/ about 12'' off the wall. My couch is exactly 9' from center and is pretty much an equilateral triangle. So besides the Maestros being off to the sides the Polks are and have to be front and center....LD
 
Hello all, I think I had mentioned when I pick my polks up in their sad state one of the 6503 drivers were frozen. I then after searching for replacement contacted Polk C.S. they were great and in a few short days received "replacement" I have been off work since March 2017
Due to eye sight issues finally having surgery in August. I was told this would fix sight and I would be able to return to work.
Not so in October it should only take two more surgeries and he would see me in 6 months. So back to speaker. I take it out of shipping box looked good
Please remember you could be standing 10 ft in front of me and I may or may not see you. I installed speaker and listened at low to low moderate levels. I could hear a discernible different sond but chocked it up to new not even close to waking up. Time go by. I am gradually sending a little more voltage as days hours pass. Some where Along in the last few days I watched and compared the 6503s on left and right and found that there was a very significant difference. One was showing a huge difference in movement almost like detached voice coil and it was the new one..ok I pull driver out and grab my 10 power eyeballs
And upon close scrutney discover my replacement is a 6502 driver. I am waiting for the new driver to arrive again wonderful Polk C.S.
The tech I spoke with saw what had happened on his screen and took care of it I felt pretty sheepish and grateful. I don't see alot of things but I probably should always should ask for large print. I picked up a couple new treasures. A really nice
Dual 1229 with the Pacific audio Pinth in walnut and dust cover like new also a nice consumer grade Tiac reel to reel also a solid 9.5.
I hope all is well and will update when the SDA 2Bs are back front stage. I have been setting them just under 8 ft desperation clear front and sides at least 3 ft side clearance and also rear. My room is 36×18 open beam and the sound stage is high with the polks.
I'm thinking with proper driver quality should be better. The ohms like a similar spot. Big labs and C.V.s like to stretch out abit
And are wonderful for what they are intended very loud rock & roll but total different use. I always for me myself
Listen to the Polls or the OHMs as they are easy sweet and accurate total happy place. Cheers,
 
First off call them by their proper model. You have SDA 2B's. Secondly, the problem you're having is related to the polyswitch. There's one on each crossover. It's a thermal reset device and yours are worn out as in they have been tripped too many times and have become hypersensitive.

So, I suggest you get over to the Polk forum and search for 2BTL. That should bring up all the mods you can do, which will be worth every penny. One tip, use Sonicap or Clarity caps and Mills resistors. Stay away from Dayton and Solen.
I do thank you and I will do that as soon as I can absorb. Reality has been busy this week but I will have to take a break over the coming weekend I will read and try not to put my foot in my mouth.. Jason
 
Nemo we should be bound by blood w/ this back and forth banter ,all for the good. You should have seen some Polkies that got into it w/ F-1 and are no longer there. Point being absorb the info, don't empty the wallet if not ready,all parts either new or auction type will be there, and then make time and you'll have great speakers. There were 2 mods I forgot to tell you about and after gutting the unit of all inards I sealed the cabinets w/ Liquid Nails for an absolute air tight seal where a roach couldn't breathe.
Next,if not mentioned you should invest in a tube of JB WELD to secure the magnets an they should never shift which is a Polk specific problem noted by many. While the cabinets are curing so ao move on to the magnets and BE NEAT ABOUT THIS. I tried to compute how much I spent on mods not counting my own time.
1. Oaxolic acid wood bleach,gloves ,makes, goggles (sandpaper) @ $25
2.Sealed all interior seams w/ Liquid Nails and let set--$18
3.Larry's Rings $60 (might not be in stock check w/ for sale list) -- sorry if not to disclose price for 2B set. ***When drilling MUST BE PLUMB Vertical OR N/G.
4. Drill bit and 5 mini C-clamps $10 dollar store (forgot drill diameter.very important again plumb vertical)
5. Vacuum entire cabinet.
6.JB WELD Magnets (known to shift as a problem never rectified0
7.Black Hole 5- placed to top of cabinet to no lower than bottom of mid drivers $20 C/L w plenty extra given
8.When ready to install cut Armaflex Gasket tape to also compresses air. (Home Depot $8)
9.If still snowy white and intact reroll polyfill and place again in tweeter/mid driver cavity. $0
10.Used BJC Belden 14gu spkr wire and for i/c cable. (price guide on their site)
11.Installed new 5 way binding posts and drill for Neutrik/Speak-on base connector (sent out)
12.Installed 2" spikes ( getting stomach pains from bass thump)
13. Installed new 2B cross overs.. (sent out) Many people do this work and just about all of it is quality stuff, it's how much you want to spend on either instant gratification or down the line r-sale value.

Many thanks to all the Polkies and a lot of AKers who know heir stuff here and he IMG_3780[1].jpg lped me to no end but it worked. If you do not agree tell them why and then an answer could be reached. if you have a mud room,garage or dedicated work space even the better,(I did not,and still got it done). The Polkies love to spend other peoples cash so be careful and and go over various sites and compare prices. Also once you join up and reach a certain # you can buy and sell things at the for sale site on the Polk Forum where many have bought and sold all kind of gear and not w/ many complaints.
Best of luck w/ your projIMG_3780[1].jpg WATER STAIN.jpg ect, it's thereputic
 
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