Caps aside, what is the "health" of the amp, did you check the bias, measure voltages, etc etc?
This is important, it may seem counter-intuitive but any part for part change can still change an operating point, and these can be cumulative when doing a full recap. Therefore, important to double check and ensure all operating parameters are correct (bias, offset, power supply voltages, etc.)
My guess is you have polarity reversal somewhere.
I mentioned that and it wasn't commented on or noted. All OP has to do is double check polarity at all inputs and outputs, or just reverse the polarity on one speaker to know. If it makes a difference, should be better, or even worse than it is. If no difference, then you really have problems.
one more vote for "clearly something is wrong," as opposed to you just needing to try a different brand of caps or something like that.
this is pretty much a brief summary of the other responses, with my own experience thrown in:
if you have any caps inserted backwards, they'd likely blow within a few minutes. if that doesn't send the amp into protection, then you could have muddy sound like this, although you'd probably have heard the cap blow if you were around the amp or the music was playing. still, look for caps with the top seal shredded. if that's not it, a bad solder joint, an overheated part, or an ESD-damaged part are the likely culprits. the bad part could be tricky to find, but it's possible if you're patient! good luck...
EDIT: the other question i don't think you answered was whether you fully discharged the filter caps before working on the amp. some filter caps discharge slowly on their own, others don't, and in that case they can cause problems to transistors (especially FETs) if you're not careful.
Did you make sure that you provided a ground for the new caps when you replaced the can cap, which used the can itself for ground?
Both replies are good comments as well.