Post pics of crossovers

A single cap is used to filter the LF from these compression horn tweeters. There's also a single cap used on the rear firing pod tweeters. This arrangement allows the full range driver to run full range as it was intended while the tweeters share it's amplifier.

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One of the best speakers I ever had was 12" woofers direct on amplifier like a full range, with a 8" driver connnected in parallel using 30uf (3x10uf) PIO caps for LF filter , and a dome tweeter connected in parallel with the 8" driver with a 4uf PIO cap for LF filter.

So, everything is in phase 0°.
 
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A non traditional crossover in the simplest form is this single cap on the B&G planar tweeter's + terminal. It blocks the LF signal while passing the HF signal. Requires trying a variety of caps to find the right value.

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I bet that cap just zaps all the life right out of that planar... :)

I really like my Ashly XR-1001 electronic crossover, but found that some (MANY) drivers sound way better with at least some basic passive filters also, like impedance correction at the minimum, even if using an electronic x/o.
 
I always thought crossovers that used bulbs to protect tweeters should have been displayed in a little window.
Like the tubes used in the Luxman Brid-series of amps.

The problem with the viewing of the bulbs is that the customer doesn't know it and then when the bulb lights for the first time the get all worried and the phone starts to ring. Hi-Fi House, 1979 or 80, Bose 301 with the light flashing out the port of the speakers.
 
Like the tubes used in the Luxman Brid-series of amps.

The problem with the viewing of the bulbs is that the customer doesn't know it and then when the bulb lights for the first time the get all worried and the phone starts to ring. Hi-Fi House, 1979 or 80, Bose 301 with the light flashing out the port of the speakers.
True, but for me it would alert me to over driving the speaker. It could have been marketed as a visual aid for the customer. But then I guess you would get those people that might push them just to see the bulb get bright.
 
I bet that cap just zaps all the life right out of that planar... :)

I really like my Ashly XR-1001 electronic crossover, but found that some (MANY) drivers sound way better with at least some basic passive filters also, like impedance correction at the minimum, even if using an electronic x/o.

My Ashly XR-1001 is on the 3rd shelf but I only use it for the LF woofer and sub crossovers. When I tried it with the tube amp powered Lowthers it killed the magic.
 

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The light bulb wasn't marketed as anything but tweeter protection. Not many saw the light flash but those that did were concerned because there wasn't a mention of it, I don't think, in any literature. The bulb does its job, especially when lighting up, sucking power that won't then go to the tweeter, protecting the tweeter. Not special reason to turn it down on light up. The more it is driven, the more it lights, the more power sucked up by the light.
 
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Magneplanar external crossovers for the MG-III. These speakers have two crossovers, one external and one internal. The external is too big to put into the speaker so some of their speakers have external crossovers, too.

I guessing these are the only finished component ones so far posted that don't plug into the wall like all those electronic crossovers. I see some other crossovers used outside the speaker. The one by Mark looks to be easily adjusted.
 
Philips Legend II - I was surprised to find these odd 2 ways had 'real' crossovers inside..

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Mission 720 before recap.....

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