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Problem with ADC Sound Shaper One Ten Mk. II

Discussion in 'General Audio Discussion' started by Ryan Scruggs, Mar 7, 2018.

  1. Ryan Scruggs

    Ryan Scruggs New Member

    Messages:
    39
    Location:
    Greenville, SC
    Hi, all!

    As you've probably guessed, I'm having a problem with my ADC Sound Shaper One Ten Mk. II. As of a few days ago, I had replaced five capacitors on the unit, and I thought that fixed my issue, but, alas, it is still giving me problems.

    When you turn the equalizer on, everything seems to work fine. Over time, however, the left channel fizzles out and only sparse, static-y sounds get through. I have tried this equalizer on other receivers/amps, replaced those five capacitors, and cleaned the entire unit with Deoxit, but all to no avail.

    My next endeavor will probably be to replace the resistor that is attached to the power button, as the equalizer seems to work fine if you hold down the power button half-way. I have extensively cleaned the switch mechanism of the power switch, but this still has not fixed the issue.

    Please help!
     

     

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  2. cademan

    cademan Addicted Member

    Messages:
    9,045
    Sounds like a loose or intermittent solder joint or wire or board connection. Don't just shotgun the repairs as you will find out that it won't cure your problems.

    If it works while holding the power button half way, i'd say your power button needs to be replaced. You can easily find out by jumping the power switch so the unit powers on directly when plugged into the wall.
     
  3. Ryan Scruggs

    Ryan Scruggs New Member

    Messages:
    39
    Location:
    Greenville, SC
    Thanks for your input, and I'll look into that! I've kind of ruled out a loose or intermittent solder joint solely based on the fact that nothing is changed when I manipulate the unit in any way. No amount of shaking or tapping makes the sound come back in the left channel.

    Also, what would you recommend to be the safest strategy in jumping the power switch? I'm relatively new to this whole electronics thing, and I'd hate to fry any more components than I already have!
     
  4. cademan

    cademan Addicted Member

    Messages:
    9,045
    I really don't believe that you fried anything. Intermittent issues can certainly be hard to track down but is not usually related to a bad part in and of itself.

    Can you show any pics? I or someone else can show you how to jump your power switch.
     
  5. Ryan Scruggs

    Ryan Scruggs New Member

    Messages:
    39
    Location:
    Greenville, SC
    Here's a closeup of the power switch:
    IMG_1746.JPG

    And here's a general view of the board:
    IMG_1748.jpg

    Thanks for your help!
     
  6. Ryan Scruggs

    Ryan Scruggs New Member

    Messages:
    39
    Location:
    Greenville, SC
    Here's a closer, higher quality picture of the switch:
    IMG_1749.JPG
     

     

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  7. cademan

    cademan Addicted Member

    Messages:
    9,045
    Fairly simple. Just jump the red wire to the white wire. This will bypass the power switch, and anything that presents itself as a problem from here on out will be something else.

    I really don't think the switch is your problem. When pushing it in half way may have just turned it on and off and back on again real fast and caused a voltage surge to the entire unit that made that channel come back to life.
     
    Last edited: Mar 7, 2018
  8. Ryan Scruggs

    Ryan Scruggs New Member

    Messages:
    39
    Location:
    Greenville, SC
    Alright, I'll definitely be looking into these issues. I can also provide pictures of the front of the equalizer (where the sliders are) if you think that would help us discern where the problem(s) is/are.

    Thanks so much for your help!
     
  9. Ryan Scruggs

    Ryan Scruggs New Member

    Messages:
    39
    Location:
    Greenville, SC
    @cademan I've jumped the red and white wires, and you were right! The problem persists.

    What do you recommend as my next plan of action? I'm not entirely sure I'll be able to spot a bad/loose solder joint.
     
  10. cademan

    cademan Addicted Member

    Messages:
    9,045
    If you're any good at plain and simple soldering, just go through whole thing and dab solder everywhere on the boards at the points where the components leads come through.
     
  11. Ryan Scruggs

    Ryan Scruggs New Member

    Messages:
    39
    Location:
    Greenville, SC
    I like to think I'm alright at soldering things! I'll give that a try and get back to ya.

    Thanks again for the help! This thing hasn't worked for years!
     

     

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  12. cademan

    cademan Addicted Member

    Messages:
    9,045
    Its worth a try. I have a Phase Linear preamp which was given to me some 20 years ago non working, and a person I had once talked to seemed to think that the board needed a touch up as it wasn't shiny looking as it once was. Yup, every spot was a dull grey and a great candidate for a resolder. I meticulously took several hours doing this and also checked for cracks and anything looking out of the ordinary.

    This may not be your problem, but it won't hurt and will be a good starting place.

    Another thought just came to mind: Check the RCA interconnects when it acts up.
     
  13. Ryan Scruggs

    Ryan Scruggs New Member

    Messages:
    39
    Location:
    Greenville, SC
    @cademan

    So, I re-soldered each connection on the board to no avail >.<

    Although, I have realized where the real problem lies! You were somewhat prophetic in suggesting to check the RCA interconnects. I'm not quite sure what exactly is the problem with the RCA interconnects, but the left input (yellow wire) is the culprit:
    IMG_1752.JPG
    The only thing that seems to bring the channel back to life (and for a very long time, might I add) is to simply touch the top part of the interconnect with a small screwdriver. Any idea why this could fix the problem? Is there something downstream that could be causing this to temporarily fix the problem?

    Thanks again!
     
  14. fred soop

    fred soop Super Member

    Messages:
    2,027
    Might be a bad connection between the external cable and the jack. This could be the inside pin or the outside ring. With the inside pin, the jack can eventually become loose and can be carefully squeezed with pliers so it fits tighter on the pin from the cable. The outside would be a problem with the connector on the cable and the tabs (usually 4 of them) can be carefully bent inward to make better contact with the jack. Of course, clean it well while you are in there.

    I have a similar SS-300SL and these are not the best built units. So far, I have not had to open mine but the switches are sometimes intermittent and need a bit of exercise to clean the contacts.
     
  15. darksolstice

    darksolstice Active Member

    Messages:
    188
    Location:
    Murfreesboro Tn USA
    I would try deoxit fader lube on the sliders.
     
  16. Ryan Scruggs

    Ryan Scruggs New Member

    Messages:
    39
    Location:
    Greenville, SC
    I've actually done that to the sliders on more than one occasion to try and bring this unit back to life. Thanks for the input, though!
     

     

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  17. quaddriver

    quaddriver 120 What's per channel Subscriber

    I have this EXACT problem on a radio shack EQ I have owned for well over 20 years. sometimes it goes dark

    I think something is desoldering itself. I know that the input jacks on the back needed to be reflowed, so not out of the realm.

    btw - unless an EQ is scritchy, DO NOT deoxit, D5, F5, anything the sliders. the better ones have a factory grease that make them feel restricted, yet smooth. the deoxit removes this and then they will stick or hitch when sliding. feel like crap.
     

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