Project Marantz 1040: one sweet little amp!

In Marantz units, I like to use Wima MKS2 at signal path inputs to replace .47uf and 1uf e-caps. I would also use them on the preamp board in the signal path. I have done a 1060 and chose to not use any Wima.

Here is my 1060 thread.

http://mail.audiokarma.org/forums/showthread.php?t=499515

Here is BK's 1060 rebuild (I would rate this as technically the best I have seen)

http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/showthread.php?t=489269


*******FWIW on my 1060 I only replaced the e-caps I left in the Marantz films, and did not switch to Wima.

Thanks Patfont. I read some of your other threads until the late hours last night (2245, 2220B, etc) and saw how much work you put into trying different components in different slots.

For the 1060, was the choice to stick with ecaps instead of Wima or the Panasonic ECW's you used in the 2245 a decision based on trying them out and not preferring them, or not wanting to go through the comparison process (which has to be very time consuming).

BK was kind enough to send me his BOM list, and I'll be using his choices by default, but the signal path caps is where I started seeing different choices and wanted to research more before I placed my order.
 
Very nice work! I'm just going through my first Marantz receiver and noticed that the brown glue really did a number on the caps. It caused a corrosion problem that caused a couple of the leads to actually fall off! These things do have a sweet sound when everything is right.
 
Thanks Patfont. I read some of your other threads until the late hours last night (2245, 2220B, etc) and saw how much work you put into trying different components in different slots.

For the 1060, was the choice to stick with ecaps instead of Wima or the Panasonic ECW's you used in the 2245 a decision based on trying them out and not preferring them, or not wanting to go through the comparison process (which has to be very time consuming).

BK was kind enough to send me his BOM list, and I'll be using his choices by default, but the signal path caps is where I started seeing different choices and wanted to research more before I placed my order.

Every component to me is a different opportunity that presents itself on what can be done. For example a Marantz vs a Pioneer, they are voiced different and so the rebuilds for me anyway are done differently. To answer your question I only replaced the ecaps in the 1060 because I wanted it to sound like it did when it was new with no changes. The most importiant thing in the 1060 will be the power supply treatment and the coupling and filter caps, if you are following BK's list in them locations you will be doing well. On mine I like to convert to screw terminal on all 3 large caps. If you have a specific question on a specific board and location on your 1060 rebuild let me know.
 
Captouch- if you want to take it to the next level, I just sent you an updated list which includes some resistors as well. I also emailed you the complete resistor list. When I did my restore almost all resistors were replaced with metal film- it's not an easy job to replace almost all resistors so it's up to you.
 
Every component to me is a different opportunity that presents itself on what can be done. For example a Marantz vs a Pioneer, they are voiced different and so the rebuilds for me anyway are done differently. To answer your question I only replaced the ecaps in the 1060 because I wanted it to sound like it did when it was new with no changes. The most importiant thing in the 1060 will be the power supply treatment and the coupling and filter caps, if you are following BK's list in them locations you will be doing well. On mine I like to convert to screw terminal on all 3 large caps. If you have a specific question on a specific board and location on your 1060 rebuild let me know.

Thanks Patfont. The signal path on mine will be a hybrid between yours and BK's. I had some 1uA/50V Silmic II caps from another order, so I'm going to use those where possible - I think there's 2 spots each on the preamp, power, and phono boards where these will go.

But many of the other ecap and bipolar spots on the preamp board will be using the WIMAs that BK used - the 4 3.3uF slots as well as to replace some bipolars.

The coupling and filter caps, as well as the non-signal path caps will be exactly what BK used.

One question is: what's the best way to remove the power board and heatsink with the output transistors. Every other board looks like it can stay in place, but the back of thr output transistor sockets seem soldered onto the back of the power board.
 
Captouch- if you want to take it to the next level, I just sent you an updated list which includes some resistors as well. I also emailed you the complete resistor list. When I did my restore almost all resistors were replaced with metal film- it's not an easy job to replace almost all resistors so it's up to you.

Thanks BK. I ordered from the first list you sent me, so some of the increased values of the decoupling caps will be lower than the updated list you sent.

It's only like 4-5 caps, so next time I order from Mouser, I can always order them then and replace to the updated values. Do you think those revisions will make a noticeable difference?

About the resistors - I didn't order any new ones and we'll see how the recap goes and what's after that on the project list. Seems like there's a ton of resistors, so like you said, not an easy/trivial job. But thank you, it definitely gives me the option to do so in the future. :thmbsp:
 
Thanks Patfont. The signal path on mine will be a hybrid between yours and BK's. I had some 1uA/50V Silmic II caps from another order, so I'm going to use those where possible - I think there's 2 spots each on the preamp, power, and phono boards where these will go.

But many of the other ecap and bipolar spots on the preamp board will be using the WIMAs that BK used - the 4 3.3uF slots as well as to replace some bipolars.

The coupling and filter caps, as well as the non-signal path caps will be exactly what BK used.

One question is: what's the best way to remove the power board and heatsink with the output transistors. Every other board looks like it can stay in place, but the back of thr output transistor sockets seem soldered onto the back of the power board.

There is a link in post #40 here to my 1060 rebuild and look at the posts #9 and #10 and you will see pics of the amp board access. You do not have to do what I did, I was also replacing the outputs. The heatsink holding the outputs is unscrewed from the amp board and can be folded open like a book for access to the back of that board. (you will also have to unscrew the heat sink from the chassis) Please be very careful and delicate with the diodes attached to the heatsink under the metal clips they need to be unscrewed also to open the board for access.
 
There is a link in post #40 here to my 1060 rebuild and look at the posts #9 and #10 and you will see pics of the amp board access. You do not have to do what I did, I was also replacing the outputs. The heatsink holding the outputs is unscrewed from the amp board and can be folded open like a book for access to the back of that board. (you will also have to unscrew the heat sink from the chassis) Please be very careful and delicate with the diodes attached to the heatsink under the metal clips they need to be unscrewed also to open the board for access.

Thanks, that's helpful. Trying to restate what you said, it sounds like the whole assembly (heatsink and amp board) can come out, then the amp board and heatsink can be separated/folded open by unscrewing the two including the diodes.

Does the back panel need to be unscrewed and folded down like shown in post#1 of that thread even if I'm not replacing the outputs?

The unit isn't in front of me now - it may make more sense when I look at it live. :)
 
Thanks, that's helpful. Trying to restate what you said, it sounds like the whole assembly (heatsink and amp board) can come out, then the amp board and heatsink can be separated/folded open by unscrewing the two including the diodes.

Does the back panel need to be unscrewed and folded down like shown in post#1 of that thread even if I'm not replacing the outputs?

The unit isn't in front of me now - it may make more sense when I look at it live. :)

Took a look at the unit just now. Everything seems to make sense and appears very accessible on this unit. Getting excited to work on this!
 
Preamp time:

Caps are off:



We have some Wima MKS2, Elna Silmic II, Nichicon KZ, and a pair of nice resistors in the input signal path.

Hi there which kind of resistors you put here and on the phono? since I have to rebuilt mime I would like to do your same rebuilt job...thanks
 
AMRG resistors available from Parts Connexion, but it is not necessary to replace them. I just did it as an upgrade.
 
AMRG resistors available from Parts Connexion, but it is not necessary to replace them. I just did it as an upgrade.
Hi there I'm new on here, I'm from Rome Italy I found the amp coupled with a tuner Model 125 both for 230 euros, the amp started to smoke after switching it on, one of the two 4700uf capacitors died...I want to recap it as you did, I made a part list from Mouser but I'm struggling a little bit to find the same parts, anyway the only difference would be the two big caps I would put two 6800uf 63V Nichicon LKG about resistors it seems they no longer sell that brand and then I would prefer to purchase from only one shop but since I don't have a schematic please tell me which (ohm/watt) to buy...upgrades are always welcome here!
cheers
 
Ok thank you...now I have only to make the order and wait for tha parcel...I’m very curious about the sonic result...
 
Hello, new guy here.

I received a 1040 from my grandfather and quite excited about it. I seem to love older high-end stuff above new things..
Seems like my treble channel won't boost at all so will try to rebuild it.

While I can solder quite well, my electronics skills and knowledge are very limited, so I'm looking forward to your parts list!

I appreciate your good write-up so far!

Erich
 
Hi Erich and welcome...I’m in Italy and I bought the same amp 1040 I followed what Patfond did and decided to do the same job, I didn’t do the job yet anyway but I have the part list if you want... like you I’m able to solder but my skills are limited so I can’t help you to solve the treble issue...
Cheers

Rob
 
Thanks Rob, I pm'ed you my email.

I was feeling lucky the other night and connected the amp. It sounds really good, and turns out the treble is working fine. Must be my granpa's ears whose treble is off.

There's some faint static, but otherwise not too bad for a 42-year old amp. I'm looking forward to recap.

Regards,
Erich
 
I just saw one of these last weekend in a used bookstore
The kid working had no idea about price and couldn't reach
The owner. I might have to stop by again to see what they want
For it.
 
I just saw one of these last weekend in a used bookstore
The kid working had no idea about price and couldn't reach
The owner. I might have to stop by again to see what they want
For it.
Go there again and let us know...
 
Well that was a wated trip. They wanted $200 for that 1040
Way more than Id pay for an unrestored unit
 
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