Project: Worst KM60 ever?

rufleruf

Poor Impulse Control
After having good luck (and lots of help!) getting an FM200B together that I bought thinking was a parts unit, I have decided to give this KM60 that came with the same lot of projects a go. This one is MUCH more apart and the chassis is decidedly ugly.

Where to start... I guess it would be nice to go crazy trying to clean up the chassis, but following my own advice I'll simply clean as best I can and neutralize the rust with some phosphoric acid 'rust mort/naval jelly' type stuff I have from working on old cars.

Functionally I need to sort out the missing aux AC plug and fuse holder, and hook back up the flying resistor and capacitor pictured. I'll of course replace the electrolytic and mylar capacitors. Can someone post a picture of the under-chassis area around the fuse of their KM60?

I should have most of the tubes I need in my vault. No idea how long it will take to buy all the missing knobs. I have some spares, but none of the two types this fellow needs.

If you read my post about the FM200B it ended with me stating I wanted to learn to do FM alignments - well, I'm fixing this so it can be my first subject.

And last - lucky me, I already have the assembly manuals for this.









 
Matt; You should be able to blow these up enough to be able to do the job. They are on the 1st page of this thread of mine from last year. Take a look at the DRAWINGS of the WIRING real good where the wiring ends up in the terminal strips. The drawing just shows the end straight thru the hole. No mechanical joints at all!!! The marOOn that built mine took it literally and I've been chasing a few intermittents and cold solder joints since September even after re-doing all the joints after the 1st one. I've got to get 50' of all different color 20ga solid core and rewire the whole friggin thing along with new resistors with long leads and caps with same.

Anyway the Fuse holder goes in the hole below the slot for the screw, and the ac cord next to it. Then use the pics and the Installation inst. manual to verify all joints. Be kinda fun to re-build it using the manual.
Pics on this thread....KM-60 enroute...http://audiokarma.org/forums/index.php?threads/km-60-enroute.729007/

This one for backup in case you run into problems.
KM-60 on DA FRITZ ....http://audiokarma.org/forums/index.php?threads/km-60-on-da-fritz.731867/
Larry
 
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Larry,

Thanks for the links. You reminded me I need to dig up a cord for it - I think I have some somewhere, but am not very organized with my parts, so we'll see. My wife and son are out of town tonight so I may try and do the whole rebuild tonight.

I also need to dig up plans for a wood case this size. I'm going to have a first go at making one this weekend.
 
Dimensions for a case should be right in the OWNER's Manual. BTW how Many of those pull out & open up sheets (drawings) have you got. Should be at least 3 double-sided . One with the KM-60 on Front, with MPX schematic and a photo of the finished underside(Figure 9) on back, 2nd sheet showing the front panel assy(Figures 15-2, & 16-2) and on the back, the EM-84 area on top and Fuse install below(Figures 3-2,3-3, 3-4, and 3-5). On 3rd sheet Figure 6-1 showing partial wiring and terminals, on reverse just the terminals with location of each noted. If you are missing any PM me with your address, and I'll get them scanned on the big scanner @ Office Depot and then out to ya.

Larry
 
Okay, so first round of kit assembly got done last night. Cap swap happened (4 caps woot!), fuse holder (repro from AES) got installed, but not wired as did an original Fisher logo power cord. I got the brown face panel backing, meter and all installed, but still need to wire up the dial lamps and find one of the rubber blocks for under the dial glass before it all goes together. Also need to install and wire up the aux AC plug. Probably will finish tonight with time to spare to dig in to the next tuner. FM100C maybe?

Sencore SG165 is expensive. Might be some lag between finishing this and trying to align it.





 
Matt; You don't need the Sencore unless someone had gotten in there and tweaked it to hell and almost back. If it's picking or picked up stations before tearing it apart, start with that, and follow the instructions. You should be able to get it to 90% just with a DMM. a scope would be nice to have but not necessary.

I very rarely use mine except to check mpx separation but I'm gonna check out Fred's suggestion of using a scope on the outputs and setting for Bethoven's brain on drugs, and see how close that is to setting that up with the Sencore. My KM-60 hasn't been aligned on the mpx (it really has good separation (about 35db IIRC)) yet so just a check really.
 
Larry, this build exercise is mostly as a jumping off point for learning to align tuners, so I will be tracking down a Sencore or possibly something else so I can "see" the adjustments as the service manual describes. I also need to buy a scope that works good to do this. Bought an ancient non-working Tektronix yesterday, but it was because of the dozen 6DJ8s (among others) I knew it had inside.

I got the everything besides the aux AC plug wired up before bed. My rivet kit is 3 hours away with my Airstream trailer, so I have to come up with a temp mounting.

More progress.
 
If there is a terminal strip located nearby held down with a screw, use it to mount whatever you need to that goes there.

Rivet kit on your Airstream? Never mind, I just remembered they used rivets on everything on the Airstream's. Screws on an Airstream? HERESY! FLOG the malcontent! Then draw and quarter what's left. My '94 18'ft. Gulfstream Innsbruck is about 80% riveted on the outside. Windows and doors are screwed on tho. Got it in '96 and it's been dependable as hell. Water pump, Toilet valve, Rebuilt the power supply and inverter (recap, new uprated resistors, new hi amperage diodes, etc). New brakes last year (finally), and a Dinosaur power supply for the Dometic Fridge/freezer (and got a spare with a broken restraint on the cover, which they told me to keep and sent another one. ) Gonna carpet it this year, and modify a memory foam double to fit the rig. And it has a FISHER 250-TX installed in place of the junk AM/FM/Cassette POS they had in it.The original ran off 12v. So I had to put a 600w inverter in behind the 250-TX. Works very well on the 4ohm speakers(junk 6" base speakers in overhead.) EPI 80's scheduled for install on bulkheads as "A" speakers and Minimus 25's for the "B" speakers. Got a 3300W generator I put in the bed of the truck and run it in there. The hard tonneau cuts noise down to conversational levels as long as the tailgate is down.

Happyness is a REDNECK MOTEL!!!:rflmao:
 
You know me - trying to do it right.

Can someone post a picture of the fuse / aux plug area from their KM60? My manual seems to be missing the page that shows this.
 
What exactly do you need there? Which hole the fuse and cord go in, or what. I grabbed anything that concerned the fuse and cord on the foldouts (3 of them). I'll PM you for your address and send you copies of them (they are at least 18x20" double sided, so there would be 6 singlesided copies, actual size).

Bottom of picture is bottom of page.
KM-60-1.JPG

KM-60-2.JPG

KM-60-3.JPG

KM-60-4.JPG
 
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You're the man Larry! That last one is the one - couldn't tell where to hook up the wires coming out of the shielding. From there it looks like one black power transformer lead goes to the inner most connection on the plug, and the other to the middle connector on the fuse holder. Voila! Let the DBT, Variac and finger crossing begin.

I got a repro fuse holder from AES and it's made for spade connectors so solder doesn't stick to it - gotta pull one from somewhere...
 
Slow down. There's a lot more on these drawings. They are 18"x20" or so. You should have the complete set to see the whole thing, not just one part. Read the PM.

Larry
 
Foldouts went out in the mail Saturday. Matt should have them by this Friday or Saturday. Unfortunately Office Depot can only do one-sided on what they call "large format" or engineering drawings. I have the FULL set for the KM-60, and believe I have the full set for the KX-200 should anyone need them.

When everything calms down here, I'll scan the assembly manuals for the KM-60, and KX-200, plus the Owners manuals for AKDatabase and FISHER CONSOLES. If I have to scan the foldouts on my scanner it would be 4 parts on each side. Office Depot or Staples does it easier and cheaper, plus you'll get something you can actually read. So they'll be separate under PM's due to the costs for the sheets and postage. One of the sheets on the KM-60 set is the full schematic, which is better than the small one page in the manual. I'm not sure if the KX-200 has the schematic on foldout, but I wouldn't bet against it.
 
Larry,

Looking forward to getting them. I changed gears and working on some other projects in the meantime.
 
If you still have one nearby, Radio Shack has a solder-terminal fuse holder that's a direct drop-in.
 
Spent an hour on the bench tonight - got the KM60 up and running - Thank you Larry for the big print outs - got me over the last hurdles.

Sounds pretty good through an alligator clipped test lead on the output RCA jack playing through a computer speaker -don't laugh - it's easier than hefting the X1000 over and hooking it up. Tuning eye is not working, and neither are the dial lights, but that's probably just a missed connection - will study the schematic tomorrow and check my wiring as the whole front of it was removed with snipped wires when I got it.
 
Okay - KM60 is officially fully functional! I was missing the wire between the meter light and the dial light on the right side. One of the 6AU6's was dead, which didn't stop it from working, but it didn't sound as good as it does now.

I listened for a while and this thing sounds really great. Not sure it needs the MPX adjusted, but I feel like I ought to go through it since it's the only reason I put the box of parts back together. Shopping in earnest for a Sencore SG165.

I suppose I'll let Rufus use it since I let him take over the X 100 3 until I get him something age appropriate and resistant to his little friends. Of course now he's going to be spoiled and think other stuff doesn't sound as good. The little EPI M50's are quite a speaker!

The little man and his first stereo!

 
Don't you have a TX-100?? It looks very much like the X-100-A, but is S.S. and it sounds very tube like, and about the same power. Plus it's got a cabinet. Keep's out inquisitive fingers unless one of them has a swiss army knife with screwdriver.

Guess I'll have to upgrade Annabelle(grand-daughter) from a KLH 20 to something with more balls, and start seriously thinking about a system for Aiden and Will (Step G-son and G-son). Aiden would be happy with an IPOD DOCK, but Annabelle loves her KLH 20. I don't know about Will and a separates system yet. I don't have another KLH 20 to start him on, but he handles the 63 Executive pretty well when here on overnights. But a 6 ft console with turntable and Ampex1250 is a bit much for a 4 year old. Plus there are space constraints. So any systems have to be fairly compact. I DO have a couple of SONY TC-230's downstairs that work, but the heads are a bit worn. BUT they can accomodate a tuner and a phono. BIG PLUS is they have speakers that can be mounted on the wall, and don't sound too bad for a kids system. I can always upgrade them. OPTIONS, OPTIONS, OPTIONS!!!
 
That is true - I do have a TX100, and I just got a quad Technics receiver to replace it at my house in the mountains.

The TC230's are an interesting idea. I found a TC630 on the street last week and got it going Sunday - all it needs is a belt, but I don't have any reels so... oh well. Pretty good sound for a big old neglected all-in-one. I suppose I could give him that, but if it falls on him, it'll do some serious damage.
 
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