Realistic SA-2001 not working

:D For the amp to work. This just externally bridges the internal preamplifier to the internal amplifier. This is what the switch usually does but if it is defective, this test will tell you for sure. You can use your ipod in AUX and if the amp then works, you will have more volume than you would ever need! :yes:

So what now? Do I need to replace the switch, build/buy a bridge between the pre-amp and main-in, or just leave the ugly cords attached? Is there any long term effect to leaving them bridged together?

This unit also puts out a lot of base.
 
So what now? Do I need to replace the switch

You will have to open it up and inspect it. As mentioned previously, it might just need a good cleaning.

build/buy a bridge between the pre-amp and main-in, or just leave the ugly cords attached? Is there any long term effect to leaving them bridged together?

You can leave them if you wish or build a pair of jumpers or buy a pair only for that purpose. I've never built any jumpers myself because I have a tray full of jumpers from past junk.

Here's a pic of a Pioneer receiver that does not use the main & separate switch. It just has the jumpers but to use it separately, you would just pull the jumper pins out. The main-in and pre-out jacks are at the bottom towards the left. you can see the jumper pins. In your case, yours has a switch so no jumpers pins were ever there or needed to connect both your internal preamp and amp together. The units which employ these switches are really convenient.
 

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You will have to open it up and inspect it. As mentioned previously, it might just need a good cleaning.



You can leave them if you wish or build a pair of jumpers or buy a pair only for that purpose. I've never built any jumpers myself because I have a tray full of jumpers from past junk.

Here's a pic of a Pioneer receiver that does not use the main & separate switch. It just has the jumpers but to use it separately, you would just pull the jumper pins out. The main-in and pre-out jacks are at the bottom towards the left. you can see the jumper pins. In your case, yours has a switch so no jumpers pins were ever there or needed to connect both your internal preamp and amp together. The units which employ these switches are really convenient.

OK. I've seen those many times and never knew that's what they were used for. Is that something you can purchase at Radio Shack or Fry's (I live in Portland, OR so not sure how big of a chain Fry's Electronics is).
 
OK. I've seen those many times and never knew that's what they were used for. Is that something you can purchase at Radio Shack or Fry's (I live in Portland, OR so not sure how big of a chain Fry's Electronics is).

A short piece of solid wire would also work in a pinch. I think 14 ga would do -- what ever fits snugly in the RCA jacks.
 
A short piece of solid wire would also work in a pinch. I think 14 ga would do -- what ever fits snugly in the RCA jacks.

I thought about that, but I imagine any electronics store should have professional grade stuff.

Silly question I know, but is there any chance of a bare metal bridge being dangerous to come into contact with? Do those inputs/outputs ever carry a charge?
 
Also regarding cleaning all the switches....what is the best way to do this? I have some deoxit, but nothing else for cleaning contacts. Do I need to pull the switches completely out of the unit?
 
1) for jumpers #8 solid wire ( home depot) works fine. Forget magic cables for those 2"
2) like the guy before me said , no danger
3) IIRC the shaft from the knob on the face panel mechically connects to long slide switch. Blast switch with deoxit (preferably into hole or gap and while its still wet exercise the switch through complete cycle 20 times or so. Do one control at a time. None of the controls need to be removed but you will have to remove cover of unit while you're doing this. Also unplug unit before you do this. Wipe over spray gently with paper towel and give it at least 10-15 minutes before you power it up.
 
Make life easy for yourself and just use a short set of patch cords/interconnects. Do not worry about bending solid metal, etc. It will not improve anything. The idea of a switch was good in theory but seems in practice tl be troublesome with many units. You can try to clean it with a non residue contact cleaner but unless you want a collectors restoration don't worry about replacing it unless it is a simple stock item and easy to replace. Do clean the output and input jacks as over the years they will have accumulated some contaminants from being openly exposed to the environment.
 
Once again AK community you guys freaking ROCK!!!!

The system is up and working beautifully. Good God what a marvelous sound coming out of this machine!! Pink Floyd may never have sounded so good to my ears. Base is deep enough I can feel it in my chest, but very crisp and clean. All the highs and lows stand out perfectly (it's making me a bit misty eyed) and I'm just playing music through my phone... what will it sound like once I hook this rig up to my Marantz?

Anyways, the BEST $15 I have ever spent in my life!! THANK YOU!


I will build a couple jumpers as suggested for the back
 

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:thmbsp:One just sold on the site not as clean as yours untested for about 6x what you paid (based on pics nowhere near as nice as yours. I had fond memories of mine. (It was nice to be able to listen to it with 17 year old ears. Come to think of it, it was nice having 17 year old everything). No doubt pink Floyd ran through mine too. Happy it all worked out for you!
 
UPDATE

This unit is sitting in my home office and isn't used a lot. In fact it sometimes goes weeks without being powered on as I have a beautiful Kenwood KA-3500 + KT-5300 combo which is about as nice a sounding machine as I've ever heard sitting in the same work space.

I have the SA-2001 hooked up to my Marantz 2016B in an effort to keep the Marantz as minty as possible (it looks so damn good with the blue lights). Anyways...the delay when the SA-2001 is powered on can last up to a few minutes before any sound is produced, and nothing I do seems to make it happen faster or slower. This isn't something that gradually got longer or longer. It powered up normally before and the last 4-5 times I've used it it takes really long to kick in. I haven't tinkered with it at all since I got it working, but am interested in selling it now but want to make sure it's in good working order.

Any thoughts on what I need to be checking for?
 
Hello AK friends. Still having the issue with this unit. I used to use it daily in my home office setup, but have had to keep it turned off due to fear of damaging it.

Sorry for the lack of technical terminology, but the delay in the amp engaging after the unit is powered on is taking over 30min now (tried it yesterday and forgot about it until it kicked in about 35 minutes later when I was on the phone with one of my managers...about made me pee myself as the volume knob was turned up too high).

The pilot lights come on immediately when the power button is depressed so at least the unit is getting power. Once the amp itself engages, it stays on with any further issues and the whole thing operates as it should.

Does this sound like a blown capacitor issue? I assume if it was a short of some kind it would kick on and off randomly, and if a fuse problem wouldn't kick on at all. Between a busy work schedule and spending every night with my oldest son to help him pass his statistics class in order to graduate high school, I haven't had a lot of time to take it apart and try and troubleshoot (not that I'd know what I was looking for anyways) so it's still sitting on the stereo rack.
 
I had one of those amps, and saved all the knobs after I killed it doing a mod. Stoopid me. If you need the "button" for the end of that switch, drop me a PM.
 
Scott:

Here is a photo. I compared what I have with photos of the SA-2001 I found online, and they look like a match. It has been so long since my 2001 died, I was not certain, but let me know if these in the photo look right. Send me a ship-to address, promise to repay me for shipping, and they're yours. You should take all of them.
 

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Scott:

Here is a photo. I compared what I have with photos of the SA-2001 I found online, and they look like a match. It has been so long since my 2001 died, I was not certain, but let me know if these in the photo look right. Send me a ship-to address, promise to repay me for shipping, and they're yours. You should take all of them.

Yes!! Those are exactly the ones! :banana:
 
Still hoping someone out there has an idea of which components need to be replaced to fix the annoying delay in this unit...
 
Scott:

Here is a photo. I compared what I have with photos of the SA-2001 I found online, and they look like a match. It has been so long since my 2001 died, I was not certain, but let me know if these in the photo look right. Send me a ship-to address, promise to repay me for shipping, and they're yours. You should take all of them.

Dennis...again thank you for the offer. The pieces arrived yesterday and were an identical match.
 
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