REALLY basic speaker assembly questions, Fostex full-range

[ChicagoTom]

Hey there,

So I've finally got my Fostex FE107EN speakers and the gorgeous enclosures from a vendor on eBay (this one: https://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-Line-s...e=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649)

I've never done this before, and I've only soldered one thing in my entire life, so I'm a total noooob. I've got a few questions. First, there are no pre-drilled holes in the enclosures. I'm not sure how best to proceed. I placed the Fostex over the opening and used black marker to show where the screws should be attached. Should I pre-drill some holes here? Or just drill the screw directly after placing the speaker over the opening?

Here are some pix:

 

[ChicagoTom]

Second question. What is the best way to connect the internal wiring to the speaker? I've got a stripping tol to expose the wire from the internal wiring. Where exactly should I attach the bare wire? I've got some very small spades from an auto supply store; is is best to attach the internal wiring to one of those connectors first and then attach it to those tabs on the speaker?

Or, can I just solder the exposed wiring directly to those tabs, looping them through the opening in the tabs? If someone has a picture of how it would look after connecting the wiring, that would be very helpful.

 

[slimecity]

OK - your hole marking method looks fine - ensure you use a bit big enough as those fostex screws are fat. As its a new hole - the first time you put the screw in, do it very carefully, shielding the speaker cone from any slips with your hands, put a little bit of soap on the thread to be safe.

You dont need to use spades - its your preference - if you envisage taking the speaker in and out of the enclosure often (why would you?) you could use them. Otherwise strip about 5mm length of the wires, connect red in the cable stripe to the red speaker terminal. Tin the wires and also the spare speaker tag with adequate solder before connecting them. Ensure no flux or solder flies or drops onto the speaker cone.

 

[Scott75s1974]

Yes definitely use a pilot drill. Those laminations are beautiful! I wouldn't want to split them.
I'd treat them as hardwood and choose a pilot drill bit near the size of the screw shank above the threads.
This video seems helpful-- ends with a pilot hole size table.

It's hard to tell what the screws are like in that picture. My advice assumes the threads are wider than the shank.

 

[slimecity]

I also assume you have some batting/stuffing to put in these cabinets?

 

[dmag]

Run the screws into the case once before you install the driver. And those are spade terminals on the driver. Use crimps.

 

[ChicagoTom]

I apologize to those who kindly offered help. I'm a schmuck for being MIA the past few weeks, life just got a little weird there and I had to put this project on hold for now.

THANK YOU for your very helpful replies! When I get back on track with this, I'll return with more questions.

 

[Powertech]

One point which hasn't been covered here is driver tunnelling. The cutouts for the drivers should ideally be rear chamfered (wider at the rear than at the front of the baffle). This is to allow the driver rear energy to pass into the enclosure without compression.
Read more here http://www.troelsgravesen.dk/chamfer.htm
This is a bit difficult to do with fully built cabinets, but chamfer router bits with rear guide rollers are available. I find that lining (glued and stapled) the insides of the cabinets with 2 layers of carpet felt is good for reducing panel resonance and standing waves before filling with whatever damping material you are proposing to use.

 

[Chip Chester]

Teenuts with machine screws might be a better bet than wood screws.

 

[DrTebi]

I think we are giving the OP more doubt than help by suggesting chamfering the cut-out and using tee-nuts... Good advise, but it seems he feels challenged enough already.

The only thing that hasn't been said yet is, that you should not just mark the screw holes with a pen and drill pilot holes, but also mark the holes with an awl, or simply use an ice-pick... something pointy, so that the drill won't slip when you pre-drill. Make an indention just deep enough for the drill bit to sit comfortably before you start the drilling. You could also use these marks to check whether the holes will be at the right spot, just put the driver in once you poked the holes with an awl, and check if they all align well.

You also may want to check whether the marked holes are in line with one another. Just for esthetic purposes, so that your driver looks neat once screwed in. You could either use an angle, align one side to the side of the speaker and make sure the other side of the angle overlaps both holes at the same point. Or use a tape measure to see if they are the same distance from the top or bottom.