Recapping Proton D1200 power amp

birchoak

Hi-Fi Nut
Hi folks--have tracked down all of the caps for this monster (except the super expensive ones) except two 470uF 120V electrolytic caps on the board, just aft of the twin 22,000uF 63V caps (filter?). I don't want to stray very far from these values as I suspect the Proton's design will not tolerate sloppy substitutes, but feel free to set me straight. Anyone know where I can find caps with these values?
 
For those taking this same path, here is my list of the aluminum electrolytic capacitors needed, in the following format:
(quantity) uF voltage notes

NOTES: I am an unwashed amateur, so please use this list at your own risk. It is not a substitute for your own, fine attention to detail but rather a cross-check to assist other intrepid souls delving into the guts of this fuel-injected beast. Be damned careful handling the old caps, especially the big ones, so you don't kill yourself, and be double damned careful working inside the D1200 for the same reason. I used Mouser for this order and chose Elna Silmic II caps when I could as they seem to have a good reputation. After some debate, I decided to leave the four big 15,000uF 120V caps in place (for now) because the lowest replacement caps I could find (United Chemicon screw terminal 18,000uF 160V) were almost $40 USD each. It is a quite fantastic power amplifier that has served me extremely well, so I may change my mind later.

Finally, we all know that a recap isn't a panacea for vintage amps but merely a starting point. Sometimes if it ain't broke, don't fix it, so feel free to utterly ignore my OCD recapping quest as there is always the possibility that you can turn a functioning amp into a smoking heap of ruin, however good your intentions. Diodes, transistors, resistors may need replacing, too, and remember to work C3 (calmly, carefully, and cool-headed), taking plenty of pictures before you pull a part out so you remember where that damned wire went and in what orientation that polar cap was seated on the board. If you can stand it, test the amp (always hooked up to a Dim Bulb Tester) after completing a small section so if something goes wrong you can more easily find out what you did wrong. Once you're all done, you will need to adjust the amp per factory specs or you may see magic smoke leaving your cherished amp. And, of course, wear pants when soldering!

(2) 470uF 160V substituted for original 470uF 120V

(4) 15,000uF 120V did not replace; $$$

(2) 47uF 100V

(2) 22,000uF 63V oh my

(6) 1uF 50V bipolar
(1) 4.7uF 50V
(1) 0.47uF 50V
(1) 10uF 50V
(1) 47uF 50V
(4) 220uF 50V

(4) 47uF 25V
(2) 10uF 25V

(1) 100uF 16V
(1) 330uF 16V
(1) 22uF 16V
(2) 220uF 16V bipolar
(2) 47uF 16V

(2) 100uF 10V bipolar
 
Update: The Elna Silmic caps are bigger than the existing caps! So far I've been able to make them work, but slimmer replacements might have been easier to install. A few existing caps in the amp are not on the SM parts list, so take my list with a big pinch of salt!
 
Update: The Elna Silmic caps are bigger than the existing caps! So far I've been able to make them work, but slimmer replacements might have been easier to install. A few existing caps in the amp are not on the SM parts list, so take my list with a big pinch of salt!

Is it finished then? How is it?
 
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Update: The Elna Silmic caps are bigger than the existing caps! So far I've been able to make them work, but slimmer replacements might have been easier to install. A few existing caps in the amp are not on the SM parts list, so take my list with a big pinch of salt!
Did you kill it?
 
Is it finished then? How is it?
My bad getting back so late! Less than one year though. I did almost all the small caps but not the 22,000uF/63V ones, nor the wicked big ones. It sounds much the same and I'm pretty sure it didn't kill me although that is probably a philosophical question best left for a different forum altogether!
 
I recently completed a recap of a D1200 with Nichicon KZ, FG, and ES series caps. I replaced the protection relay which was causing dropouts. I also replaced the board mounted RCA connectors which are prone to cracked solder joints with case mounted WBT style ones wired to the output board. The one thing I have been unable to source are suitable replacements for the 22000uf 63V filter caps. The Nichicon caps are either too wide 63mm or too tall 100mm. The existing caps are 40mm x 80mm. Has anyone found a suitable replacement?
 
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