Reel to Reel oiling recomendatons

analog54

analog54

New Member
I have a number of Teac reel to reels, 3300 2T, 2300SD, 3340 and a 1250 along with a Pioneer RT 701.

My supply of Teac oil that I have used for years but it is running out. I am not hung up on having Teac brand oil but I am looking for recommendations for resupply, any light machine oil? The hybrid oils like Triflow? Obviously not WD40.

Recommendations appreciated, Thanks
 
If the gears/mechanisms are all metal, bicycle oil will do.
Also I gotta ask, what's wrong with WD-40?
 
I have just heard that WD40 was not a great oil for long term lubrication as much as penetrating oil for rusty parts.
 
WD40 is water displacement and not lubricant no matter what advertisement says. While it does penetrate and can loose parts, eventually will attract dirt and some report over time it can attack the surface of the metal and cause corrosion and pitting.
I would rather use Tri-flow – this is designed and used for fine spherical bearing in aerospace. I just used it to lubricate frozen dial counter on Teac R2R I’ve picked up recently. Other option would be fine low viscosity motor oil like Mobil 1 0W40 or such. Believe me; you can’t get better than that. Some would recommend sawing machine oil which is similar.
I am not an EE or service tech but aerospace engineer with some experience in lubricants, so YMMV.

Regards,
 
+! on the Tri-Flow. I have a mat cutter that is a brass block running on a chrome bar, and the Tri-Flow keeps it friction free and keeps the wear down to a minimum.
 
Several Teac manuals say to "lubricate with TEAC spindle oil (from TEAC TZ-255 oil kit) or Mobil DTE light or equivalent." So Teac mentions one alternative.

"Mobil DTE Light" is a circulating oil with a viscosity weight of ISO 32. The Mobil DTE name series oils are general purpose turbine oils. The Mobil DTE 20 series is their premium turbine oil with better anti-wear properties.

................DTE............DTE "Numbered"
ISO.#...Named Series........20 Series
..10............--.....................21
..22............--.....................22
..32..........Light...................24
..46.........Medium.................25
..68.....Heavy Medium............27
.100.........Heavy..................28


So "Mobil DTE 24" would be a good alternative for Teac TZ-255 oil or
any good quality ISO 32 turbine oil. I believe Zoom-Spout oil is an ISO 32 turbine oil.
www.mcmaster.com has Mobil DTE (both Light and 24) by the gallon (a life time supply).

Turbine oil is also known as rust and oxidation inhibited (R&O) oil and is designed for systems with a long service life (steam turbines, hydraulic systems, etc.).
 
I'm using sewing machine oil I got at the local sew & vac shop. It comes with a handy extendable spout.
 

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I use a light green, peppermint-scented (I think) Schwinn oil. At least it works on old CD player mechanisms (worm screw and guide rails).
 
Very good posts and now most tape deck people now know to avoid the WD40.
TR6 has got it right.
It is strange that so many other on other forums I am on miss the mark with regard to using WD40 and some even spray it into their Pots. Have you ever looked for brand new Teac type dual different value pots? Not to mention the dual shaft and cuts. I have never found them. Let me know if you do.
I have used GC oil in service for a long time and am too a fan of Tri Flow. Tri Flow is just a high grade oil unless you stir it up really good. Probably better to leave those cans sitting upside down to get particle off the bottom. The Tri Flow should be a milky color oil not clear if it is mixed right.
As to the places to oil a Teac- All rotating tension rollers, The roller previous to the head shell, Pinch Rollers for sure- help keep the nylon washer on that gets lost so easy. Capstan bearings- you may have to unscrew the dust cover on the A series and lay on back as well as run for 10 minutes while oil seeps in. Then the Capstan motor tubes- a syringe or what they used to call precision oiler metal tubes are best for these. There are oil tunes sticking up front and back of motor. In the case of no tunes in the reel motors, those will have ball bearings. I am not so sure Tri Flow will do well long term for the counter assembly. Many times I have had to service counter due to dirt and improper cleaning- remember, the mechanism might need to work but also the white lettering must stay on too. Some oils or solvents have been know to upset the lettering. I have some new counters here but it is best not to use up parts needlessly. I have always cleaned the surfaces with Windex and
it has always been good after that. Air pressure will get the dust out. Any further Teac related questions I can try to answer as they come up.
 
Skywave,
Good point regarding dial counter and its lettering! Mine was really stuck, and albeit I’ve cleaned it after using Tri-flow, I might go and rinse it with 95% alcohol to make sure it’s clean.

Having said that, it was only worm screw I’ve lubricated with it. I agree Tri-flow can has to be shaken before use to get a proper mixture (Teflon is added to the oil) but I must admit I sometimes forget that. :sigh:

Btw, since someone asked: Tri-flow is considered “bicycle oil”, one of its uses is on chains and sprockets.
As for questions on Teac R2R, I don’t want to kidnap this thread but I would appreciate if you can look at this one:

http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/showthread.php?t=363678

Regards,
 
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