coylum
Well-Known Member
Well worth reading this link - post no 194 http://theartofsound.net/forum/showthread.php?26397-RFC-News/page20
Seems that if you really want to get the best performance out of the crossover then mods to inductors and capacitor value is called for
Seems that if you really want to get the best performance out of the crossover then mods to inductors and capacitor value is called for
No Money
Super Member
Hmmmmmmm, wow. That's more than a simple cap replacement. Will dig into that a bit deeper. Thanks.
Wanting to do a recap myself, as i dont think there is too much wrong with mine; just a slightly metallic top end that I'm certain can be softened with equivalent Jantzen silver Z caps. I have used these before in other speakers and for the money, they are brilliant.
Only problem is that I'm struggling to get the crossover board out. It's screwed in with no.15 torx screws, but they are not the problem. It appears to have been glued in too. Just wondering if there are any suggestions for removing the board without knackering the cabinets.
Only problem is that I'm struggling to get the crossover board out. It's screwed in with no.15 torx screws, but they are not the problem. It appears to have been glued in too. Just wondering if there are any suggestions for removing the board without knackering the cabinets.
cheers matey! will try that.
Well, the Jantzen Silver Z caps are in. Only put in last night and they may need burning in a bit, but first impressions are promising. Far more subtle and delicate sound, where the original phillips caps were brash and hard in the upper mid/lower treble. More sense of instruments inhabiting their own space, via enhanced microdynamics, and reverb/amosphere is easier to hear in a deeper soundstage. The upper treble is still a tad bright, but that has never been a problem for me. All in all, a bloody good £45 notes well spent. Did chew up the back of the cabinet a little in the process of removing the crossovers. Obviously, my glue is tougher than yours!
