Rega Owner's Thread

Bogdan AH, such behavior can be attributed to a number of different factors. I experienced a very similar issue in the past with my old Linn Basik turntable when I was using a Grado Gold cartridge. The problem was just as described, as the tonearm/cartridge neared the end of the record, there was an increasingly notable amount of hum present. As it turned out, the cartridge was not sufficiently shielded and as it came closer to the turntable motor, the resultant humming would increase. I solved the problem by changing the cartridge out for a Linn Adikt. That remains of of the best audio upgrade experiences of all time for me in terms of the overall level of satisfaction provided. The Adikt really opened my eyes as to what a difference a change in cartridges can make. Since the Linn, I have owned a Rega RP3 on which I used two different Dynavector DV10x5 cartridges, neither of which presented any problems. I'm currently using a Rega Planar 6 with Rega's own Ania cartridge. This combo also performs wonderfully, without issue.

The biggest disappointment about your story in my mind is the way the dealer handled the situation, or rather failed to handle the situation. I consider their treatment of you and the problem you experienced to be unacceptable. Yes, it's good the they returned your money, but they did nothing to actually address the problem at hand. I did some research on this topic back when I was experiencing similar issues and I know that this problem is not terribly uncommon. Any audio dealer should be familiar with such issues and if they are at all worth their salt they should be able to come up with a way to help troubleshoot and rectify the problem — rather than simply returning your money. Ultimately you're probably better off finding another dealer that is interested not only in your immediate business, but also in your enjoyment of music playback and your continued business.

In the case of Rega turntables, they elect to shield their cables, as opposed to providing a separate ground cable. This leaves the door open to a couple of different possibilities for such behavior. But note that this is not to say that a separate ground cable is foolproof either as illustrated by the behavior I experienced with my Linn turntable. In the case of the Rega you purchased, there could have been a faulty, or partially faulty, shielding connection at either the tonearm or plug end. In such cases, I suppose that this could make the hum more readily apparent when the turntable is hooked up to certain amplifiers. It could have been more of an intermittent problem that was possibly eliminated by the way the dealer manipulated the cables when plugging them into the amplifier. There's really no telling now and that's a shame.

If you really liked what the Rega turntable did with the music aside from the hum issue then you could opt to work with an online retailer that has excellent return policies. But it is hard to beat the benefits of having a really good local dealer. As much as I have enjoyed the Rega turntables that I've owned, I'm not sure that I would put up with a crappy dealer just to continue my use of Rega turntables. In addition, I own a pair of Rega RX3 speakers, so I'm a bit more invested in the Rega brand than many others. But as much as I like the Rega gear that I own, I also realize that there are plenty of other great products available these days from a large variety of different brands. Rega might not represent the most upscale of choices, but they typically do a very good job of providing a lot of bang for the buck. I wish you the best of luck getting things figured out.
 
Thanks Guth. It's reassuring to me to know that this is something that may happen... I really loved how the P3 sounded, but right now I'm a little discouraged... I'm still looking around to see what other options might come out. Maybe going to the vintage market. There's a Micro Seiki DD25 and a Sansui SR-2050 that showed up but look to me overpriced, at around 200 Euros each... I'm working on it. ;-)
 
New P6 in action now, up from a RP3 that I sold. Had a new P1 for a while till the P6 arrived. Dust cover hinges on all models were no trouble. Bill what cart are you running? P3 and P6 have the same 330 arm I think, finding my dynavector @ 9 grams is the limit on the arm, the counter weight is drawn back to the point of being over the arm edge on the back side. Also notice a very fast drop on the queuing, my RP3 with 2M was smooth and dropped allot slower. All this has me believe 9 g cart is the limit on the 330 in stock trim
I am considering a new P6 and wondering if you have experienced any hum issues. I am a little concerned about the lack of a grounding wire. I had a RP1 with Performance Pack that did have a hum that I could never eliminate. Thanks
 
For you Rega Planar 1 or 2 owners, I just posted some info under the thread 'Old vintage or new TT quandary' about how to adjust the anti-skate on the turntable. I know I am not the first...The mod is simple. The key is you need the proper test lp to set it properly and I think the Telarc Omnidisc is the best for that. As far as hum (I know the question was for RP6), I don't have any hum in my Planar 1 with the stock Carbon or the MP-110. However, I was able to try out a Rega Bias 2 and guess what...as it approached the center of the record it hummed. The Bias 2 was lively and sounded good, but I also noticed static, pops, clicks were more pronounced with the Bias 2, so me going with the MP-110 has been right for me as I also like the more laid back presence of the Nagaoka. You can put me in the camp of being a Rega turntable fan, but not a Rega cartridge fan...at least on the lower end.
 
. . . As far as hum (I know the question was for RP6), I don't have any hum in my Planar 1 with the stock Carbon or the MP-110. However, I was able to try out a Rega Bias 2 and guess what...as it approached the center of the record it hummed. . .
I had the same issues with a Bias 2 on my RP3. I had no problems with a couple different Sumiko moving magnet models, an Audio Technica CN5625AL, the Ortofon MC-3 Turbo (that I heard in the dealer's RP3 floor model), or the M97xE that became my favorite in my current setup.
 
Hello everyone,

So, I received my xmas present a bit early and was wondering if I would need a spacer for this setup? I've heard everything from no, the dimensions are very close to your Carbon, to; Yes, you will need a 2 mm spacer. This will be my first cartridge install, any tips for a newbie? Thanks in advance for any advice.
EMDV0qQ.jpg


Steve
 
My brother has an Rega 3 from the late 70's (I believe) and it is still running perfectly. Don't know if the early/vintage Rega models used double sided tape.
 
Hello folks. My first post in this thread so please forgive my lack of knowledge. Audio DIY is very new to me! I have a P3 from 1980 I purchased new and fit with a Magnapan Unitrac arm. The original cart is a Dynavector 20B, which is currently with SoundSmith for retipping. All the mods I’ve read about are very intriguing and I’m thinking a motor/pully/belt and possibly a sub platter upgrade (not necessarily all at once) would make sense as initial steps. From what I’ve read so far I’m gravitating to the 24v Rega motor upgrade and Groovetracer sub platter (probably the Reference) as first steps. Is my “old table” a candidate, do my priorities sound right and.... can a mere mortal with good mechanical aptitude make these changes?

Thanks for any responses.
 
Very easy for mere mortals :)
Hello folks. My first post in this thread so please forgive my lack of knowledge. Audio DIY is very new to me! I have a P3 from 1980 I purchased new and fit with a Magnapan Unitrac arm. The original cart is a Dynavector 20B, which is currently with SoundSmith for retipping. All the mods I’ve read about are very intriguing and I’m thinking a motor/pully/belt and possibly a sub platter upgrade (not necessarily all at once) would make sense as initial steps. From what I’ve read so far I’m gravitating to the 24v Rega motor upgrade and Groovetracer sub platter (probably the Reference) as first steps. Is my “old table” a candidate, do my priorities sound right and.... can a mere mortal with good mechanical aptitude make these changes?

Thanks for any responses.
 
Hi Guys - my RP1 and the old backup AT LP120 both bit the dust in a recent move from Texas to Wyoming. I went from a place where there were a few dozen audio stores, Dallas/Houston/Austin, too well... I *think* there may be a store or two in Salt Lake City, but that is a good 230 miles from here.

What that means is I am having the very devil of a time trying to figure out what turntable to buy to replace them, especially without being able to audition any of them.
I think I am settling in on a Planar 3 with the Elys-2 cartridge. But wen I look at the price of that, it may make sense to eat beans a few months and just go for a Planer 6 with the Exact cart. I am unclear if the upgrade (aluminum bearing, much heavier glass, new model TTPSU, and such is worth the difference. I know I may be wanting to upgrade the Planar 3, and I would rather just get it over with and enjoy the music.

I am also (please don't yell at me) open to look at other Turntable brands if they are competitive. Clearaudio, Pro-Ject, VPI? Anyone willing to share their opinions please? I promise, I will not hold it against anyone if I make a mistake. It's my own dang fault for not packing those electronics better. Lost a computer and photo printer too... as well as two boxes of records. :(. Fortunately, most of those were already needle dropped, but still!

Thanks!
-Paul

P.S. If there are any online dealers to not deal with, a heads up on that would be great too. If it is okay to do so of course. Thanks! -PR
 
Haven't even seen one so far (Axpona will probably change that) - but the Technics SL-1200 mk 7 looks interesting ? I always keep at least one auto table in with the herd of manuals -just too nice when its time for feets up -glass in hand late night listening. I own and use a few of the earlier gen 1200's and one of the the new series and really enjoy the swap headshel/cart l convenience -rock solid build and speed stability.
 
Haven't even seen one so far (Axpona will probably change that) - but the Technics SL-1200 mk 7 looks interesting ? I always keep at least one auto table in with the herd of manuals -just too nice when its time for feets up -glass in hand late night listening. I own and use a few of the earlier gen 1200's and one of the the new series and really enjoy the swap headshel/cart l convenience -rock solid build and speed stability.

That is a great idea, but they are not available yet are they?

In any case, I bit the bullet and ordered a Planar 6 with the exact cart a few hours ago. Nice part is it has speed control, so you can adjust the speed like on a 1200. Not as easily, but it supposed to be very steady indeed.

Yours,
-Paul
 
The Planar 6 arrived yesterday. Took all of 15 mins to setup, most of which was opening the box.

The only issue was the box looked like it had been opened and the "trimming tool" was missing. Contracted the vendor about that today, but I think I got a bit of a runaround. Will call them tomorrow about that.

As to the sound from the thing.... daaaaammmmmnnnnnnn - it sounds like it isn't there. (!)

Tried running it directly to my PreSonus 1810c's Mic inputs. Sounded great, but a might shy on the bass response.
Ran it through a $59 iConnectivity Spin XLR - sounded better yet.
Ran it through the MM input section of a Peachtree Audino - wow. Much better.

Just color me matte grey impressed. I think I am in love with this. Almost everything on it sounds about as clear as CD level digtal, but with a much more appealing clarity and depth. Rhythm perhaps? Energy? No idea how to explain it.

I think I should have stretched a little mor efor the Ania cartridge, and I am going to have to buy a standalone Phono Preamp to get the best out of this.

Looking for one with a defeatable RIAA filter, so I can record using software filters. The only one sI have seen are the Graham-Slee at $1500, and the Setas at around $2400. Need something more in the $1000 range.

-Paul
 
Anyone willing to share thoughts on phones preamps? These things rapidly spiral out of control when one is researching them!
How far should I stretch for the P6 with the Ania cartridge? $500? $1000? $1400? More?

Thanks,
-Paul
 
Over the weekend I received the 24V motor upgrade and Groovetracer Reference sub-platter assembly for my Rega Planar 3. However, wanted to get some input before moving ahead with installation. If this is the wrong thread for this, I apologize and just let me know...

I felt I should install the motor first. When checking the new motor pulley for proper alignment with the Rega stock sub-platter, the 33 RPM spindle appears to barely be in proper alignment with the sub-platter for proper belt contact (but, probably fine if I was going to use the stock sub-platter). Please see the attached photo for reference. This is also using the triple (thick) adhesive spacer, recommended for the Planar 3, per the installation instructions. However, when inspecting the Groovetracer, the sub-platter thickness measures 1/16 inch less than the stock sub-platter. Assuming the Groovetracer settles in at the same distance from the plinth, I am therefore concerned that the top edge will be 1/16 inch lower than the stock sub-platter. It seems this will cause the 33 RPM motor spindle to be too high, and not line up with the Groovetracer sub-platter properly. The additional "hub washer" included in the motor kit does not seem to make any difference in the pulley/sub-platter alignment.
Should I install the Groovetracer first? I was concerned about having the TT upside down after installing the new sub-platter which is partially why I chose to install the motor first. If needed, can I use one or two additional adhesive spacers from the kit for some additional thickness to lower the spindle more? Videos I've watched seem to make both of these installations seem pretty cut and dry so, maybe I'm making a big deal out of nothing.

Thanks. John
 

Attachments

  • Motor Pulley Location.JPG
    Motor Pulley Location.JPG
    43.4 KB · Views: 21
Does your pulley have a set screw for vertical adjustment? If not, the pulley is probably held on with a little bit of glue that you can remove with nail varnish remover. On e it's loose, you can stick it back at whatever height you need with some krazy glue.
 
Course this would also be a good time to install something like the Michael Lim motor isolation base which you can adjust up or down as you need. It also moves the motor off the plinth completely.
 
Course this would also be a good time to install something like the Michael Lim motor isolation base which you can adjust up or down as you need. It also moves the motor off the plinth completely.
Yes I agree. I have a custom-made wood surround support for my Planar 3 and I use a 3rd party DC Motor Kit so I had to Heath Robinson the Lim Motor Isolation Base, but the results are well worth it. :beatnik:

35bco03.jpg


2hxrofb.jpg



An easy way to adjust the height is using different lengths of brass hex bolts. Lims Motor Isolation Base uses the same screw threads in the base section.

x10llz.jpg
 
Last edited:
Does your pulley have a set screw for vertical adjustment? If not, the pulley is probably held on with a little bit of glue that you can remove with nail varnish remover. On e it's loose, you can stick it back at whatever height you need with some krazy glue.

Course this would also be a good time to install something like the Michael Lim motor isolation base which you can adjust up or down as you need. It also moves the motor off the plinth completely.

The pully on my 24v motor shaft does not have a set screw and I’m not sure I want to try removing/adjusting its position. Now, the Michael Lim isolation base sounds/looks interesting. Just checked it out a little including some pics. Seems like a much more long term and impactful option. This rabbit hole getting deeper though! I’ll check this out further and report back my direction. Thanks KB007!!
 
Motor isolation proved to be a very good thing on my older planar 3. Of course I opted for a DIY solution rather than an aftermarket kit, so there are less costly options if you are so inclined.
 
Back
Top Bottom