Rega Planar 3 (older model) Questions - Issues to look for? etc - help asap

That motor's weakness was primarily in how it was mounted, which could cause minor speed variations, especially as the "rubber band" mounts aged. I have one with the original motor isolated from the deck...no speed problems at all. I have TTs I like better, but they all cost quite a bit more (except my modified AR-XA). I consider the Planar 3 (post 1983, with the RB300) a classic.
 
Last edited:
Ahhh, bummer. Thanks for all the info - the continued questions weren't bc I did'nt believe the AK wisdom, I am just always curious about and amazed at some of the poor design choices you can see in old equipment (probably newer stuff too). Is the internal belt one of the reasons I (seem) to see more Rega's with aftermarket arms on them?

It sounds like the speed issue is pretty prevalent with these, is that right? The Rega is only $300 asking, its been there for a while so I think I could get it even cheaper. EVen still, not worth considering it and swapping new parts?

I've been striking out with vintage turntables recently. Two weeks ago I found a Thorens TD 160 in great cosmetic shape, only to find a bent motor spindle.

It seems like a better thread question would be - "what vintage turntable can I buy that isn't a landmine?" (in fact, I think I'll make that thread) Thanks again!
 
It can be cheaper to buy the whole 'table just for the arm. Same reason that Linn Axis and Basik tables often show up arm-less.
 
Ahhh, bummer. Thanks for all the info - the continued questions weren't bc I did'nt believe the AK wisdom, I am just always curious about and amazed at some of the poor design choices you can see in old equipment (probably newer stuff too). Is the internal belt one of the reasons I (seem) to see more Rega's with aftermarket arms on them?

It sounds like the speed issue is pretty prevalent with these, is that right? The Rega is only $300 asking, its been there for a while so I think I could get it even cheaper. EVen still, not worth considering it and swapping new parts?

I've been striking out with vintage turntables recently. Two weeks ago I found a Thorens TD 160 in great cosmetic shape, only to find a bent motor spindle.

It seems like a better thread question would be - "what vintage turntable can I buy that isn't a landmine?" (in fact, I think I'll make that thread) Thanks again!

The speed issue is exacerbated by the age of the rubber band suspension on the Planar 3; as time goes by, they become even more flexible and allow the motor to move, in turn creating speed variations. The $225 24V replacement motor solves the problem...albeit, at a fairly hefty cost. There are other/better/cheaper solutions, if you enjoy DIY projects.

While some turntables were poorly designed, or not designed/implemented in such a way to last for 30, 40, or even more years, I don't consider the Thorens with a bent spindle to be an example thereof. In fact, the vast majority of the mid-grade and higher turntables from the 60's, 70's and 80's are quite reliable and need very little to make them nearly as good as new again. However, damage from poor handling is another matter, and can (obviously) render any turntable either useless or in need of expensive/complex repair.

In my experience, if you want reliability then avoid tables with sophisticated electronic controls, sensors, etc. Certainly some of these tables - like the Pioneer PL-630 I'm working on now - are wonderful performers, but the more complex they are the more there is to fail...and many of the IC's used in such tables are hard/impossible to obtain. Stick with a simpler unit, either manual or semi-auto for greatest reliability.

Bottom line, the better question for your new thread might be "which vintage tables ARE potential landmines", as the list will be much smaller than asking the reverse. And by narrowing your criteria - budget (not including cartridge), manual vs semi or full auto, suspended or not, direct drive or belt (or even idler), wooden base, willingness/ability to do basic maintenance tasks, minor repairs, major repairs, etc - you can get an even better list of tables to consider.

As for the Rega you are asking about...the value of the older Regas is primarily in their tonearms (RB250 and RB300). I would not pursue the older version, with the Acos arm...as has been pointed out above, it did not age well and frankly was nothing all that special to begin with. It surely is not worth near the asking price. If you are set on a Rega table, stick with post-1983 (the point at which they began building/using their own arms.
 
Last edited:
There's a very good chance that the anti-skate belt in that R200 arm is broken and replacements are not available.

It is a toothed belt. There are "ways" to fix it involving shims and a belt that is "close" but that's the deal breaker for me on the old Regas with that arm. Depending on what anti-skate was set when the belt failed, you may have an arm that's way out of adjustment.

View attachment 1114041

I thought someone in the UK had discovered a way to get a clean fix. There is a lot of discussion out there.
 
seems like the general consensus is; Run Forest Run

Price is also a factor here. $300 is too much IMO.


I thought someone in the UK had discovered a way to get a clean fix. There is a lot of discussion out there.


As far as I know it involved a different sized toothed belt and some shims (3D printed?) to take up the slack. It certainly is possible to repair but the whole thing seems a bit bodge to me.

R200_tensioners_small.jpg
 
Last edited:
I had the same dilemma about 30 years ago. Sitting in the window of a local-ish HiFi shop (Billy Vee Sound Systems in Lewisham, London) was an older Rega Planar. It had the S-shaped tonearm and wooden trim around the edge of the plinth. I went inside to make some enquiries, and inside was a kid from my school and one of my old teachers. They basically said, for a few quid more, why not buy a new Planar 2 with the Rega designed and manufactured tonearm? The price with a cartridge would have been higher, but they had a whole bunch of bulk AT95E's which they installed one for me. I still have and still use that table today, it came with me when I emigrated here in 2000.

I guess what I'm saying is, if the price on this one is right and you can verify that it works, go for it. Rega turntables are fairly easy to come by though, so there might be a better deal elsewhere.

Lee.
 
I had the table posted by James. I didn't like the weak motor, but really liked the RB300 arm, which I still have. The arm is the best part of the table.

How was the motor "weak" exactly?
250jimp.jpg




James H
 
Well, when you have to spin it by hand to get it going............hows that. NONE of my other turntables I have ever owned had such poor start-up performance.
 
Well, when you have to spin it by hand to get it going............hows that. NONE of my other turntables I have ever owned had such poor start-up performance.
You don't HAVE to do that with a Rega turntable. I don't do that with my Rega deck and it works just fine.

If you expect it to start on demand just like a Technics SL1200 you might do that. But then it isn't designed as a direct drive DJ deck the way the Technics is.


Try comparing apples v apples.



James H
 
I own that model of the Planar 3, and have worked on another 3 or 4 of them...none needed help getting started, so I would say that yours had a problem. Perhaps a slipping belt, or a faulty motor. The need for start-up assistance is definitely not normal for these tables.
 
Last edited:
Back
Top Bottom