Rek-O-Kut Turntables - ROK

[JFRACE]

Fellow B-12H owners - I have a question for y'all. I really like the look of the box plinth that came with mine, but it really would profit from some mass strategically added inside.
DSC_4307 by fiddlefye, on Flickr
The glory and bane of these tables is the monster Ashland motor and one of the issues I see with these motors is that even when running well they do tend to get a bit warm and need some breathing room. In building a plinth for one just how much space should one leave around and below the motor to keep them from cooking themselves? Any tricks to help airflow around the motor to help with cooling?

Also - one can slightly hear the sound of the motor running in between tracks and in really quiet passages of classical LPs. Any good way to dampen that at all, or does it just go with the territory and live with it?

Still my favourite of all of the tables I own I must say.

why not use a small usb fan or plug in fan, small for electronics. I used one to cool off a table I had.Worked well.

 

[fiddlefye]

why not use a small usb fan or plug in fan, small for electronics. I used one to cool off a table I had.Worked well.

I'm thinking of that, actually. I think it is a good idea as long as one can filter out the dust on the way in maybe? Then I would need to work out a flow pattern for the air.

 

[Beer&Bourbon]

I got the new motor mounts installed. The "old" ones in the top plate seemed to be plenty flexible, but the ones closer to the motor were shrunken and hard. I went ahead and replaced them all since I was in there. I checked the noise on the run out groove of a record before and after and, disappointingly, found that there was at most a modest change with a decibel reading of 57-58 prior to the change and 55-56 after the change (read from the same seat in my room with the amp turned to the same volume). To me and my buddy's ears it didn't really sound different either. Oh well.

I think I talked my buddy into building a nice sturdy plinth for me so more info on that down the line...

 

[malden]

I got the new motor mounts installed. The "old" ones in the top plate seemed to be plenty flexible, but the ones closer to the motor were shrunken and hard. I went ahead and replaced them all since I was in there. I checked the noise on the run out groove of a record before and after and, disappointingly, found that there was at most a modest change with a decibel reading of 57-58 prior to the change and 55-56 after the change (read from the same seat in my room with the amp turned to the same volume). To me and my buddy's ears it didn't really sound different either. Oh well.

I think I talked my buddy into building a nice sturdy plinth for me so more info on that down the line...

I had the same experience with my L37. With new motor mounts and heavy plinth, I was still hearing a lot of noise with the needle in the groove. It wasn't until I isolated the tone-arm from the plinth that I heard a huge improvement.

 

[Beer&Bourbon]

Malden - do you have any images of your turntable that you can share? I'm curious about how you isolated the tonearm from the table since I'm planning to build a plinth in the near future.

 

[malden]

Malden - do you have any images of your turntable that you can share? I'm curious about how you isolated the tonearm from the table since I'm planning to build a plinth in the near future.

My solution was somewhat ad hoc since I thought the massive plinth would be enough. It needs more refinement.

 

[fiddlefye]

I had the same experience with my L37. With new motor mounts and heavy plinth, I was still hearing a lot of noise with the needle in the groove. It wasn't until I isolated the tone-arm from the plinth that I heard a huge improvement.

Funny thing. I have the arm mounted in the original spot on the top deck and there is not a hint of noise until the stylus hits the groove. The sound is being entirely transferred through the platter. I'm wondering whether a ring of same material to damp the platter edge where the idler runs on the inside might not be helpful?

 

[cmarti]

I would like to thank everyone for the great wealth of information provided on this thread, I just finished restoring my Rondine jr. L-34 and it sounds so nice and rumble is not a problem, it is so low that can't be perceived unless you focus and want to listen to it

Can someone tell if this model is 1958 or 1959? It came with the S101 motor.

 

[fiddlefye]

I would like to thank everyone for the great wealth of information provided on this thread, I just finished restoring my Rondine jr. L-34 and it sounds so nice and rumble is not a problem, it is so low that can't be perceived unless you focus and want to listen to it

Can someone tell if this model is 1958 or 1959? It came with the S101 motor.

Lovely!

 

[cmarti]

Lovely!

Thanks sir

 

[fiddlefye]

Thanks sir

The white vinyl really sets it all off as well....

 

[Hull Rust]

I would like to thank everyone for the great wealth of information provided on this thread, I just finished restoring my Rondine jr. L-34 and it sounds so nice and rumble is not a problem, it is so low that can't be perceived unless you focus and want to listen to it

Can someone tell if this model is 1958 or 1959? It came with the S101 motor.

Looks great, have no idea on the year.

Curious, what is the toggle switch for?

 

[Hull Rust]

I've set the motor project I posted about aside to move to a tonearm rewire.

I saw somewhere online maybe on AK - and of course I can't find the thread to link it here - that it's possible to pull the pins out of the plug on a ROK arm.

I have a N-34 H that's ready to go except it needs a tonearm rewire. Incredible static when the arm travels on the record or when moved manually.

I have a junker arm tube so thought I'd use that as a test.

I figure desolder the pins, solder new wire and fish it back though the arm and then solder the pins back on and set them back in the plug. My fine soldering skills stink so a friend will help out with that part. Here are pictures from the test arm with results and the screwdriver I used to pry the pins out. The N-34 H arm is next and I'll report back after the coming Holiday.

 

[cmarti]

Looks great, have no idea on the year.

Curious, what is the toggle switch for?

Thanks! The toggle switch replaces the internal switch which is missing, probably failed years ago. I would like to replace it but can't find any information on the replacement for it.

 

[Hull Rust]

If the toggle switch works you might want to leave well enough alone. The internal switch on my L-34 can get a little wonky when starting on 33 1/3. Just passing along my experience, others may have had different experiences.

 

[cmarti]

If the toggle switch works you might want to leave well enough alone. The internal switch on my L-34 can get a little wonky when starting on 33 1/3. Just passing along my experience, others may have had different experiences.

It works fine, but I would remove it and put a pilot light where the toggle switch is.

Does anyone have a picture of the original motor activator switch for the L34?

 

[Hull Rust]

I don't have any pictures of the switch without the shrink tubing on it, but here are some of what I do have, including the wing plate the switch moves across for 33 1/3 or 45:

 

[cmarti]

I don't have any pictures of the switch without the shrink tubing on it, but here are some of what I do have, including the wing plate the switch moves across for 33 1/3 or 45:

Thank you for the pictures, what is the capacitance of that capacitor? I think I will go to my local electronics surplus store to see what I can find which works. I see the switch is normally closed and it opens when it reaches the center plate.

 

[Hull Rust]

Here's what I have:

 

[cmarti]

Here's what I have:

View attachment 1047830 View attachment 1047831

Thank you good sir, now off to find a suitable switch!