alteclipsch
Super Member
Ditto on both my pairs of Fives, with testing between coats, and new caulk behind the rims.My Fives required 2 light coats. I also put a coat on the dustcap.
Ditto on both my pairs of Fives, with testing between coats, and new caulk behind the rims.My Fives required 2 light coats. I also put a coat on the dustcap.
I've restored Seveenteens, Sixes, and two sets of Fives. Like you, I was concerned about appying too much sealant, but this is the easiest part of the renovation. On each project, applied one thin coat, let it dry overnight, then hooked them up and listened to them for a week or so, then re-evaluated. The Seventeens and Sixes sounded fine with just the single application. After several days of listening to the Fives, just removed the grills and brushed on a quick second coat. All sound very good!Hello everyone, I picked up a pair of 17's back in April, I am beginning the process of restoring them. I just bought the Vintage-AR sealant, and I applied a single light coat. When pressed, the woofer cones snap back to their position instead of having that 1-second or so delay. I was wondering if I will need to apply another coat after this one cures? Or will it become more air tight when the sealant cures? I am terrified of ruining the surrounds with too much sealant!
Nice! Always loved the cabs on the Seventeens and Twenties.Found a pair of these 17s in a thrift store yesterday. They were marked $5.99 for the pair, and.. it was 50% day for those who had the thrift store's phone app so I grabbed them. Condition is decent, one is missing a badge- I should have looked around on the floor at the thrift. If it did fall off there it's probably still nearby (edit- went back it's not there). Veneer is decent shape maybe one corner chip. No sound from the tweeter on one, and little bass response on both. So I ordered the cloth surround sealer that was recommended later in this thread from vintage-ar. I will order caps from parts express today.
Question about the 2nd photo in part two (limited electronics experience): Special says "note that the two 4 uF caps are connected in parallel". I assume these are the two larger ones that are glued to the cab, but what about the two on the XO plate, I'm guessing they are the 2 uF ones, they look also to be in parallel- am I correct? Edit: latter half was incorrect- the original 4uF is a dual lead with the dual end going to the two terminals on the switch the other going to the positive speaker lug. So using the two dayton 2uF caps, one end is tied together going to the + speaker lug, the other two go to increase and normal on the switch. I don't believe it matters which goes to which because the original dual lead side is not marked and has the same colored wire.
Reference: schematic from another KLH restore thread in this forum.
Here's a starting pic with nothing done but the badge screws removed:
View attachment 799333
Part two
Here are the old and new caps side by side.
I purchased the caps from Parts Express at http://www.partsexpress.com. It only took 3 days for the caps to arrive, and I added in a few other items I needed too.
Here's what I ordered:
027-414 DAYTON DMPC-2.0 2.0uF-250V PO .. qty 4 $1.52 ea.
027-421 DAYTON DMPC-4.0 4.0uF-250V PO .. qty 4 $1.85 ea.
Here is the reassembled crossover with the new caps. I used hotmelt glue to fasten the double caps. Note that the two 4MF caps are in parallel, giving a total of 8MF.
Solder and wirecap the tweeter leads, and put it back in it's place
Before you put the driver back in, its time to put the stuffing and shroud back in place. Don't forget the gloves.
Solder in the driver leads, and mount it back on the cabinet with the 8 screws that you haven't lost.
With any luck, here's how it looks! Note that I cleaned and oiled the cabinets.
Just a couple of steps yet. Since the cabs were filthy, I figured the grills were too. They were in perfect shape, so instead of replacing the grill cloth, I used a fabric cleaner to freshen them up. Screw the logo back in place and you are DONE!
Here are a couple more shots of the finished product.
I must say that I'm VERY pleased with how these turned out. Total time invested was about 4 hours, including taking pictures. I've moved them up to my home office, driving them with my Marantz 1060 being fed by iTunes via a dbx 3BX-DS. I had planned on selling them, but oh my they sound mighty nice!
I've listened to a nice variety of music as I've put this together. I hope someone can find this post useful and maybe it will inspire someone to take on a project like this themselves.
Just a follow up to my November post. The crossover re-cap and woofer surround seal went well, and these model 20's have new life!
I am using them in my dining room, replacing a pair of Dynaco A25's. They sound very nice in this setting, much better than the Dynaco's which sound dull though I suspect the Dynaco's could use a recap. They are being powered by a pair of Marantz monoblock amps driven by an Adcom GTP 500.
Again, thanks for this great resource.
Steve
From Parts Express, 4 of each of the following as recommended by others on this forum:Awesome! Which caps did you end up using (values)? I'm aiming for some model 23's but I'd like to know what choices you guys are making and the results to help me when my time comes.
so, the original cap has 2 red wires coming from it to the high frequency switch. The new cap has one red wire, but the wire disappears at the bottom of the photo. Ho exactly do you hook that up if there's 2 posts?
I'm going to have to dig into my model 6. I had this pair for a few months, and one of the tweeters is now producing no sound. Do bad caps cause the tweets to sound dull, or absent entirely? Since it worked before, could I assume the tweeter blew?