Replacement power switch for MC2120/2125/2200/2205

jlovda

Things I loved from the 60's and 70's
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It is my understanding the original part is no longer available fro Mac Parts. Has anyone found a reasonably good replacement with a correct shaft for the knob?

I'm interested in buying a unit but the switch was replaced with a pot/power switch (pot not used) and the shaft is very short. The defective original is gone.

Thanks for any suggestions
 
I didn't bother to repair mine I just jumped the switch so that it would always power up when plugged in. I plugged it into the switched receptacle on my preamp.
 
I asked McIntosh for this part a few weeks ago and got the same response as you apparently.
Supposedly the Power switch and the speaker on/off switch (Mc # 146-167) and identical.
So if you see either one anywhere for sale, it will work.

All though I remember Terry mentioning a different work around here.
I was going to ask for which pot he used as it's a fairly unique length/shaft end, but that thread is 10 years old.

I had to tweak my Speaker selector switch to work when I got my MC2125, and they're fairly simple in design and pretty easy to dismantle/service (IMO).
To be honest though, Id love a new switch ...so I'll be following along!
 
Interesting to know.

A friend with an MC2120 rebuilt his switch. The switch has a circular plastic part which breaks apart.

After gluing it together, he made an exact mold of the part using clay, and from that he reproduced the part with plastic resin poured into the mold which sets up in minutes. After reassembling the switch, it worked perfectly.
 
I see 'captainfantastic' now has this exact control posted on Ebag with an eerily similar title to this thread ...almost like he's here among us. o_O

It's an on/off switch, no tracking problems to worry about like with some of the other potentiometers he offers, and it meets specs, shaft length and everything (APPARENTLY, I have not laid hands on one). Unfortunately, I might just have to buy one of these to find out.

Thought it was worth a mention..
 
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Hahah yeah it's overpriced, but that's why he's making these obsolete controls for himself only. So he can set the selling price where ever he wants.
Plus, having custom potentiometers made in small (under 5,000ish unit batches) can get pricey per unit, so I'd bet hes making 120% profit at best.

captainfantastic is onto something, it's a pretty smart idea ....even if he is an arsehole!
 
Might be overpriced but......but if you need the switch, you need the switch. I have to order one for my Fisher, we will see I guess.
 
I would never buy anything from so called Captainfantastic! I bought a 2125 re-cap set from him and on half the caps the values were way off. I understand that the voltage can be higher.. but the impedance values were all over the place. Also, nothing was audio grade.. all bottom end stuff I could pick up for a third of the $195 he charged. On top of that.. there were NO bi polar caps.. which I needed 5 of. He agured with me staring that there were no bi polar caps on the boards! There clearly are! I ended up sending them all back and buying them individually (audio grade) from Mouser. Much cheaper and now it sings! Captain fantastic!
 
I have always used Nichicon Fine Gold (FG) polarized and Muse (ES, green) non-polarized caps from Mouser with great results for my Mcintosh recap projects.
 
I would never buy anything from so called Captainfantastic! I bought a 2125 re-cap set from him and on half the caps the values were way off. I understand that the voltage can be higher.. but the impedance values were all over the place. Also, nothing was audio grade.. all bottom end stuff I could pick up for a third of the $195 he charged. On top of that.. there were NO bi polar caps.. which I needed 5 of. He agured with me staring that there were no bi polar caps on the boards! There clearly are! I ended up sending them all back and buying them individually (audio grade) from Mouser. Much cheaper and now it sings! Captain fantastic!
If the values were way off, how were you supposed to know what goes where? Were the caps marked like C107 to match the Service Manual?
 
If the values were way off, how were you supposed to know what goes where? Were the caps marked like C107 to match the Service Manual?
No.. the caps were not matched at all. He has pdf’s to download. However, these pdf’s are hard to decipher along with the fact they are only made to one revision of the 2125.. which there are several! I was lost instantly and bombarded him with questions. For example.. he would list the correct value on the pdf.. but expect you to guess which one to use from the supplied caps. After while he contacted me by phone and apart from being rude.. argued with me about the 2125 not having bi polar caps! Maybe an earlier version did not.. but mine sure does! It was a fiasco but I def learned my unit in the process.
 
As for the power switch issue.. I also had a broken switch. After taking it apart, I discovered that if I melted the broken plastic piece with a solder gun.. it held together better than any glue. You just have to make sure not to hit that little round tab as that is needed to press into the little black plastic switch inside. You also have to make sure to put the little brown board on before you melt the white plastic around the shaft. Then it’s just a matter of lining up the little white round tab inside the black plastic switch. May sound confusing... but once you take the pot apart it will make sense to you. I just used a pair of needle nose pliers to peel back the 4 little metal tabs to remove the switch from the housing. How this makes sense!
 

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Simple !
I replace the complete part (pot and switch new ! )

Replacement power switch for MC2120/2125/2200/2205

you can add MC2250/MC2255 and MC7270
 
Simple !
I replace the complete part (pot and switch new ! )
Sweet!! You have one?? The Alps pot discussed in this thread??
Replacement power switch for MC2120/2125/2200/2205

you can add MC2250/MC2255 and MC7270
 

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