Replacing glass faceplate: help needed!

[cchean]

I need to replace the galss faceplate on my MC7300. I already ordered the new glass replacement and I started removing the broken one. Any advice or hint about doing this job as smoothly as possible? I will try to do this myself as it does not seem like a very hard job. Will post pictures soon. If any of you already done this before, any help or feedback would be greatly appreciated Thanks.

 

[dan87951]

I would probably shoot audio classics a email or phone call. I'm sure they would have no problem giving you some pointers.

 

[cchean]

The glass panel has three pieces of Lexan attached to the back, two blue-colored rectangles for each VU meter and a narrow translucent piece that acts as a difuser? They are attached to the glass faceplate by means of a black, double sided tape. Does anyone know what kind of material is that?

 

[cchean]

I would probably shoot audio classics a email or phone call. I'm sure they would have no problem giving you some pointers.

If no one here on AK knows the answer I might do that.

 

[c_dk]

I would wait until you have received the actual replacement glass. To my knowledge difusers are never sent. Some are held in place by screws, most by tape.

You will need to transfer the difuser to the new glass and reattach so that the lamps are centered.

 

[skippy_ps]

The glass panel has three pieces of Lexan attached to the back, two blue-colored rectangles for each VU meter and a narrow translucent piece that acts as a difuser? They are attached to the glass faceplate by means of a black, double sided tape. Does anyone know what kind of material is that?

I tried double sided tape that you would get at a hardware store and it was too thin to work. I did find double sided foam tape at McMaster and it was just the ticket. Something like a few 64ths thick.

Once you put the tape on the glass it is pretty much there to stay as you'll risk damaging the paint if you try to remove it. Measure twice, stick on once. :yes:


Murray

 

[skippy_ps]

Search for "double sided foam tape" at mcmaster.com. I think I bought black, 1/2" wide and cut it down to 1/4" or so. .031" thick should work ok. If yours looks thicker than that then get .062"

Murray

 

[cchean]

I would wait until you have received the actual replacement glass. To my knowledge difusers are never sent. Some are held in place by screws, most by tape.

You will need to transfer the difuser to the new glass and reattach so that the lamps are centered.

I have the new replacement with me already. No, it did not come with the difusers, which must be put back in place by tape.

 

[cchean]

Search for "double sided foam tape" at mcmaster.com. I think I bought black, 1/2" wide and cut it down to 1/4" or so. .031" thick should work ok. If yours looks thicker than that then get .062"

Murray

Will foam work? The one that is factory installed feels like rubber...

I contacted Audio Classics and they sell that. $20.00 a roll...

 

[cchean]

Went to McMaster-Carr online and found this:

Light Duty Polyethylene Foam Tape—Adhesive on Both Sides
Light Duty Foam Tape - Adhesive on Both Sides Rubber Adhesive, 1/2" W X 5 Yds L, .031" Thk, Black, part #7598A941

Maybe that will do the trick?

BTW, I measured and yes, it is about 1/32" thick

 

[dshoaf]

I replaced an MA-6500 faceplate with similar lexan backing. Tried a number of things but didn't like the way I had to work with it. Thanks to some scrapbooking friends, I discovered 3M Glue Lines and Dots. These worked great and allowed me to put an adhesive spot exactly where I wanted it.

Since then, it is clear from this sample site that products available to help with dispensing have really taken off, too. No affiliation, of course, just an example of what I'm talking about.

The same admonitions above apply, though: Fit multiple times, set it once. And make sure those windows allow the backlights to provide even coverage, too.

On the foam strips for blocking light diffusion, I've used the same insulation foam tape as Gregory and it works well.

Cheers,

David

 

[skippy_ps]

Went to McMaster-Carr online and found this:

Light Duty Polyethylene Foam Tape—Adhesive on Both Sides
Light Duty Foam Tape - Adhesive on Both Sides Rubber Adhesive, 1/2" W X 5 Yds L, .031" Thk, Black, part #7598A941

Maybe that will do the trick?

BTW, I measured and yes, it is about 1/32" thick

That's it. I was looking at the same thing this morning.

Murray

 

[skippy_ps]

I replaced an MA-6500 faceplate with similar lexan backing. Tried a number of things but didn't like the way I had to work with it. Thanks to some scrapbooking friends, I discovered 3M Glue Lines and Dots. These worked great and allowed me to put an adhesive spot exactly where I wanted it.

Since then, it is clear from this sample site that products available to help with dispensing have really taken off, too. No affiliation, of course, just an example of what I'm talking about.

The same admonitions above apply, though: Fit multiple times, set it once. And make sure those windows allow the backlights to provide even coverage, too.

On the foam strips for blocking light diffusion, I've used the same insulation foam tape as Gregory and it works well.

Cheers,

David

Thanks for the info on a different way of doing this.

Murray

 

[Gregory]

I replaced an MA-6500 faceplate with similar lexan backing. Tried a number of things but didn't like the way I had to work with it. I discovered 3M Glue Lines and Dots. These worked great and allowed me to put an adhesive spot exactly where I wanted it. The same admonitions above apply, though: Fit multiple times, set it once. And make sure those windows allow the backlights to provide even coverage, too.

Are you talking about positioning the clear plastic strip that conducts/directs light to the controls?


-Gregory

 

[dshoaf]

Yes, I referred to it as a diffuser. It was quite tedious to get it set right so that the light was distributed to all the lettering on the front panel in such a way that you could see it evenly from left/right and up/down perspectives.

Cheers,

David

 

[Gregory]

Yes, I referred to it as a diffuser. It was quite tedious to get it set right so that the light was distributed to all the lettering on the front panel in such a way that you could see it evenly from left/right and up/down perspectives.

The reason for asking about it is.. my diffuser was installed pretty much by hanging it on the pot and switch shafts, and the old sticky pads didn't hold it at all. The countersinks where the lamps extend acted as self centering holes. Not much attention was paid to the panel. Maybe someday.


-Gregory

 

[lastgoodbye]

I easily broke my MC-7300 faceplate. Too easily it seems, but you've got to be very careful with such a monolithic piece of equipment. After calling around to different McIntosh dealers and repair centers, it seems like this mistake is going to set me back around $300. I considered doing it myself and did a lot of research but it does seem difficult.

When you complete the process could you offer some tips/suggestions/pictures?

Thanks for any assistance you can offer.

Kind Regards.

 

[cchean]

I easily broke my MC-7300 faceplate. Too easily it seems, but you've got to be very careful with such a monolithic piece of equipment. After calling around to different McIntosh dealers and repair centers, it seems like this mistake is going to set me back around $300. I considered doing it myself and did a lot of research but it does seem difficult.

When you complete the process could you offer some tips/suggestions/pictures?

Thanks for any assistance you can offer.

Kind Regards.

Yes, I can certainly do that.

As for now, the last update is that I received the double sided tape from
McMaster-Carr and it is exactly the same as the original, the part number is #7598A941

 

[grange45]

Yes, I can certainly do that.

As for now, the last update is that I received the double sided tape from
McMaster-Carr and it is exactly the same as the original, the part number is #7598A941

Hi. Not to unnecessarily resurrect an old thread but cchean, do you have any advice or pics you can share about the process?

 

[jlovda]

This comment refers to my restoration of broken glass on an MC300. Make sure the white rectangles on the diffuser are perfectly centered behind the verbiage they are to illuminate. You get one shot at it with good foam tape. You will also need the foam tape to reattach the blue plastic filters. Double and triple check for dust particles and fingerprints on the inside of the glass before you seal the filters. I used disposable Zeiss eyeglass cleaners that come in little packets (like handiwipes at a restaurant.) Check the blue plastic filters for dust specs as well. I bought a box of 100 at my local Wal-Mart Optical. For the blue filters, take four little strips of the tape and make a completely closed "frame" so dust will not return later.