Restoration in SF Bay Area

Oceanwolf

New Member
I have a C26 and MC2505. I maybe doing the restoration (mostly replacing the caps and bulbs) myself, but if I get into trouble are there any dependable restorers in the Bay Area? I prefer not to ship these very delicate and heavy equipment.
 
I just picked up my C26 from Champlifier in Alameda yesterday, Sheldon always does a great job.

World of Sound in Mill Valley do a lot of McIntosh service work.
 
I have a C26 and MC2505. I maybe doing the restoration (mostly replacing the caps and bulbs) myself, but if I get into trouble are there any dependable restorers in the Bay Area? I prefer not to ship these very delicate and heavy equipment.

If neither have problems and are working fine now and you just want to do a restoration, then you just have to ask yourself how comfortable you are doing that sort of thing. If you've done others successfully, you'd probably be fine and can proceed. There's always the risk you create a problem and take an unrestored working unit and make it a non-working unit that needs repair though.

Based on some quick price checks, those pieces seem to be in the $500-800 range each. The cost of the parts themselves to do a restoration isn't very much at all, but paying a tech to do a restoration on these would be pricey due to labor costs and you probably couldn't get that $ out later if you needed to sell. If they're long term keepers, then no problem. But it's just something to weigh into the equation. Ultimately, it's a risk/reward decision for you. But I wouldn't make these the first restoration pieces you attempt to work on.
 
Great! As does the 250. Well worth the wait.

You’re fast, I was going to write you today :)

I’m running 2 of them in mono with JBL L100 centuries. Certainly a better garage system than I ever expected to have out here.
 

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If neither have problems and are working fine now and you just want to do a restoration, then you just have to ask yourself how comfortable you are doing that sort of thing. If you've done others successfully, you'd probably be fine and can proceed. There's always the risk you create a problem and take an unrestored working unit and make it a non-working unit that needs repair though.

Based on some quick price checks, those pieces seem to be in the $500-800 range each. The cost of the parts themselves to do a restoration isn't very much at all, but paying a tech to do a restoration on these would be pricey due to labor costs and you probably couldn't get that $ out later if you needed to sell. If they're long term keepers, then no problem. But it's just something to weigh into the equation. Ultimately, it's a risk/reward decision for you. But I wouldn't make these the first restoration pieces you attempt to work on.
I totally agree. They are currently working fine with some issues that detoxit would solve without too much effort. I like thinkering with stuff. I will probably will take the risk.
 
I totally agree. They are currently working fine with some issues that detoxit would solve without too much effort. I like thinkering with stuff. I will probably will take the risk.

If you like tinkering with stuff, it should be a fun job. I've restored both 2120 and 2255 amps, a 1900 receiver, and troubleshot a C35 pre. The amps and receiver, though a later vintage than yours, were among the easiest pieces I've worked on because many of the boards were plug-in, so easily removable to recap, and connections were mostly using connectors that could be detached easily. Your pieces are a bit older, but hopefully also are put together so disassembly is straightforward.

Just take your time, take lots of pictures to document how things go together, and pay attention to the polarity of the caps you remove because the service manuals can be wrong, as well as potentially the silkscreens on the board itself (though I don't recall seeing that on a Mac).

It's pretty rewarding to complete a job like that successfully and realize the $ you saved. Of course it can also go the other way, but as long as you go into it with eyes wide open and accept the risk, it's all part of the journey. :)
 
Hey Oceanwolf!

Have a restored C27 connected to a 2505 and love the combo. I bought the C27 from the House of Music in SF. They are an official McIntosh dealer and they may do repairs, but only to solid state equipment.

Good luck with your project.
 
If you like tinkering with stuff, it should be a fun job. I've restored both 2120 and 2255 amps, a 1900 receiver, and troubleshot a C35 pre. The amps and receiver, though a later vintage than yours, were among the easiest pieces I've worked on because many of the boards were plug-in, so easily removable to recap, and connections were mostly using connectors that could be detached easily. Your pieces are a bit older, but hopefully also are put together so disassembly is straightforward.

Just take your time, take lots of pictures to document how things go together, and pay attention to the polarity of the caps you remove because the service manuals can be wrong, as well as potentially the silkscreens on the board itself (though I don't recall seeing that on a Mac).

It's pretty rewarding to complete a job like that successfully and realize the $ you saved. Of course it can also go the other way, but as long as you go into it with eyes wide open and accept the risk, it's all part of the journey. :)

@captouch, what type or brand of capacitors did you use when recapping the 2255 amp? Did you use original factory specs capacitors or upgraded to audio grade capacitors such as Nichicon "Gold" capacitors, which some the technicians I know are using.
 
@captouch, what type or brand of capacitors did you use when recapping the 2255 amp? Did you use original factory specs capacitors or upgraded to audio grade capacitors such as Nichicon "Gold" capacitors, which some the technicians I know are using.

For whatever reason, I used all Nichicon for this recap - I don’t remember why. UKL (low leakage), UFG (Fine Gold), UES (Muse), UKA, etc. I think in general, I try to use the highest grade audio caps that were available in original cap value and voltage. I don’t think I changed any values, though sometimes I will up the voltage a bit if a better cap is available in the right uF value, but only at a bit higher rated voltage value.

Note: I didn’t do the big main power caps. I may still at some point, but from all I’ve read, those tend to last longer. It only cost about $20 in parts, and that includes the Darlingtons used to regulate bias (originals sometimes go bad and heat sinks get too hot).

My BOM is attached, though it’s possible there are a few extras that might not have been part of the 2255 recap that I needed for some other project.

0BFDACF2-C328-4CE2-90E1-053DD8FEC2FC.jpeg
 
Hey Oceanwolf!

Have a restored C27 connected to a 2505 and love the combo. I bought the C27 from the House of Music in SF. They are an official McIntosh dealer and they may do repairs, but only to solid state equipment.

Good luck with your project.

Just picked up a C27 myself and restored the caps besides the can caps. Nice sounding unit and pretty with it’s all glass face (my other pre is a C35 with half glass face).
 
@captouch, thanks. Good to know and someone also recommended me to try as much as possible to have same voltage and uf as the original specs. What’s you’re experience or observation on the change of sound signature?
 
@captouch, thanks. Good to know and someone also recommended me to try as much as possible to have same voltage and uf as the original specs. What’s you’re experience or observation on the change of sound signature?

I didn't really notice any significant change, but honestly I'm not confident in my ability to remember enough differences when the time between listening sessions is a couple of days like it was in my case.
 
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