Restore + Repair Yamaha C-2a & C-80 / M-80

I think I have the best chance of finding a non working PC2002m that I can fix (and most importantly, afford). The B-2 seems like everyone feels "sounds the best"... maybe I'm wrong, fairly new to the Yamaha camp.

Finished with the C-80 for now. Got the noise out of the controls and finished recapping aside from a few BP caps I overlooked. Brothers in Arms SACD sounding nice.

On to the M-80...
 
When replacing VR trimmer pots you want it to be turned all the way counter clockwise at installation and then after power up slowly adjust? Just double checking...
 
Finished up with the M-80... even recapped the meter board and found some more corrosive glue underneath a 1000uf/25v cap. Everything is rock solid, I think, too tired to listen tonight...

Now just need to go through the C-2a and make a parts list...will try and do that during the week so I can place an order and have parts before next weekend.
 
Finished up with the M-80... even recapped the meter board and found some more corrosive glue underneath a 1000uf/25v cap. Everything is rock solid, I think, too tired to listen tonight...

Now just need to go through the C-2a and make a parts list...will try and do that during the week so I can place an order and have parts before next weekend.
What did you use for C164 in your M-80 recap. The schematic, silkscreen and parts list are wrong. OEM part is a 47µf/25vdc Non-Polar.
 
What did you use for C164 in your M-80 recap. The schematic, silkscreen and parts list are wrong. OEM part is a 47µf/25vdc Non-Polar.

Yeah, I caught that one ahead of time by reading the dsbg threads and installed the correct 47uf/25v... I think there might have been an error on the parts list for the C-80 as well, I will have to double check but on the tone/eq section there were some bipolar caps that weren't marked bipolar on the parts list.
 
Enjoying the thread.
I just plowed through the resistor replacement to get my C-2a working, next is caps.
I've got a partial capacitor list but as I'm new at this I would appreciate if you would share your list.
 
Enjoying the thread.
I just plowed through the resistor replacement to get my C-2a working, next is caps.
I've got a partial capacitor list but as I'm new at this I would appreciate if you would share your list.

Hey Milo! I've been following along with the other C-2a thread you are a part of and really appreciate your contributions! That thread, I am sure, will prove to be invaluable when I start going through my C-2a.

I got a caps list from another member on here but it has a few other parts on it for other projects as well, I'm going to edit it down and will make a BOM for just the caps on the C-2a so I can share it with you. I'm going to try and put in my order with Mouser by Wednesday so I can get things for the weekend so hopefully midweek I can have that for you.
 
Is everyone else's C-2a a dark charcoal slate gray color? Is it supposed to be solid jet black? I'm kind of confused... regardless, I love the way mine looks it appears to be in mint condition but the color is like a beautiful charcoal/slate color it's definitely not black. I have a silver/titanium CDX-920 rs... I think it will look pretty cool with them all together... the M-80 is black, then the C-2a is graphite, and then the CDX-920rs is silver! It's like a gradient component system :)

I'm planning on posting a few pictures of the finished products when I'm done with all the work.
 
Hey Milo! I've been following along with the other C-2a thread you are a part of and really appreciate your contributions! That thread, I am sure, will prove to be invaluable when I start going through my C-2a.

I got a caps list from another member on here but it has a few other parts on it for other projects as well, I'm going to edit it down and will make a BOM for just the caps on the C-2a so I can share it with you. I'm going to try and put in my order with Mouser by Wednesday so I can get things for the weekend so hopefully midweek I can have that for you.
It is my recommendation, as well, to those who want to recap their equipment to at all costs try to steer away from "rebuild packages" of caps for this simple reason... you never know the age of shelf life for them. The best option is to utilize Mouser or DigiKey or Newark to pull from high volume inventories that can help you assure that fresh stock is used. The recent purchase from DigiKey for large value power caps for my M-80 has build date stamps of early~mid 2018 for example.
 
It is my recommendation, as well, to those who want to recap their equipment to at all costs try to steer away from "rebuild packages" of caps for this simple reason... you never know the age of shelf life for them. The best option is to utilize Mouser or DigiKey or Newark to pull from high volume inventories that can help you assure that fresh stock is used. The recent purchase from DigiKey for large value power caps for my M-80 has build date stamps of early~mid 2018 for example.

Good advice. Are you talking about the kits you can buy on ebay or other audio specialty websites? I've never considered them just because I assume they are we over priced...
 
What do most people do with the foam pad sheet that runs across the top of the two transformers in the M-80... mine hasn't completely deteriorated yet but it looks like it's headed that way and rather unsightly as well... does it perform any function worth keeping it there or should I remove it to make everything look nice?
 
Is everyone else's C-2a a dark charcoal slate gray color? Is it supposed to be solid jet black? I'm kind of confused... regardless, I love the way mine looks it appears to be in mint condition but the color is like a beautiful charcoal/slate color it's definitely not black. I have a silver/titanium CDX-920 rs... I think it will look pretty cool with them all together... the M-80 is black, then the C-2a is graphite, and then the CDX-920rs is silver! It's like a gradient component system :)

I'm planning on posting a few pictures of the finished products when I'm done with all the work.

Mine is a lighter charcoal but it's supposed to be black. I think the anodizing on some of these tends to fade over time. You can even see slightly darker spots that correspond to where the selectors were set for a very long time on mine.
I've seen many pictures of M-2s and M-4s that are roughly the same color but mine is black which I think is a result of sitting in it's box for the majority of its life.
 
Hey Milo! I've been following along with the other C-2a thread you are a part of and really appreciate your contributions! That thread, I am sure, will prove to be invaluable when I start going through my C-2a.

I got a caps list from another member on here but it has a few other parts on it for other projects as well, I'm going to edit it down and will make a BOM for just the caps on the C-2a so I can share it with you. I'm going to try and put in my order with Mouser by Wednesday so I can get things for the weekend so hopefully midweek I can have that for you.
Thank you,
I'm in the "monkey read, monkey do" stage of this endeavor.
Hopefully I'll start to figure stuff out as I go.
 
Thank you,
I'm in the "monkey read, monkey do" stage of this endeavor.
Hopefully I'll start to figure stuff out as I go.
I'm in the same boat and probably the same level as competence as you. Just another monkey with a soldering iron. These are my first recap projects.. I've tinkered around with things... recapped speakers, adjusted bias, proficient with deoxit... I have no electronics background though so for troubleshooting that's where I start to get lost... trying to get better at it and learning how to read voltages off a schematic and all that stuff... I just read through the forums as much as I can and look to experienced members like Avionic and follow their instructions. I have a scope, a couple dvms, and a dim bulb tester... I would like to get a function generator soon and make a dummy load. Also want to get a Weller S51.
 
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