mr.muddles
Super Member
What series of Nichicon capacitor do you recommend for the 105 C + hi temperature caps? And the two 680uf/63v? Should I use Nichicon PM, PW, HW? Thank you clinic-audio!
Restore + Repair Yamaha C-2a & C-80 / M-80
- Thread starter mr.muddles
- Start date
What series of Nichicon capacitor do you recommend for the 105 C + hi temperature caps? And the two 680uf/63v? Should I use Nichicon PM, PW, HW? Thank you clinic-audio!
mr.muddles
Super Member
There is no direct replacement for the MUSE caps that I know of... the only MUSE ones are KZ and ES that I know of? (I guess FG is also part of Muse) There are no 680uf/63v muse caps on mouser I think it will need to be one of the other series to get that value.
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mr.muddles
Super Member
Nichicon FG 1000uf/63v https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Nichicon/UFG1J102MHM?qs=kArNe9LFxXmXxkLwBR9L8w==
Nichicon KW 1000uf/63v https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Nichicon/UKW1J102MHD?qs=kArNe9LFxXl4jW7VElRb9w==
Nichicon FW 1000uf/63v https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetai...=sGAEpiMZZMtZ1n0r9vR22e0BBN1kF1oif20PlqgFPlA=
The original 680uf/63v was rated for 85 degrees so I guess it's okay to replace it with one of the above audio grade capacitors? Unless someone recommends something better I'm just going to get the Nichicon FG 1000uf/63
Nichicon KW 1000uf/63v https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Nichicon/UKW1J102MHD?qs=kArNe9LFxXl4jW7VElRb9w==
Nichicon FW 1000uf/63v https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetai...=sGAEpiMZZMtZ1n0r9vR22e0BBN1kF1oif20PlqgFPlA=
The original 680uf/63v was rated for 85 degrees so I guess it's okay to replace it with one of the above audio grade capacitors? Unless someone recommends something better I'm just going to get the Nichicon FG 1000uf/63
clinic-audio
all on YAMAHA untill 1990
yes , 105° is better
clinic-audio
all on YAMAHA untill 1990
it is not necessary to use Muse capacitors
105° Ordinary one will be enough, you will not hear any difference
Again , I do not recommend to replace 680µF by 1000µF
mr.muddles
Super Member
I started looking at 1000uf/100v values because that's what they used for replacements on amp.com http://amp8.com/tr-amp/yamaha/c-2a-3.htm
I'm almost done with my order, just finalizing and double checking.
mr.muddles
Super Member
I'm buying a couple different varieties since they aren't that much so I will have multiple options once everything arrives.
mr.muddles
Super Member
I almost forgot those Film Capacitors STYRENE 50V 220P. I had to pay for 2 day shipping to ensure it would get here before the holiday weekend but it will be worth it!
mr.muddles
Super Member
I'm just going to list the values here as selecting capacitors I feel is probably a personal choice thing. So, below as follows is a full list of all electrolytic capacitor values in MY C-2a so if anyone wants to use this for their recap. If you want to know specifically what capacitors I chose feel free to ask but I am by no means an expert...
PHONO
- 100uF/25v X 4
- 4.7uF/50v X 2 (muse)
- 470uF/6.3v X 4
POWER & MAIN
- 680uF/63v X 2
- 1uF/50v X 1
- 10uF/50v X 6 (muse)
- 47uF/16v X 1
- 10uF/50v X 3 (105 degree hi-temp)
- 4.7uF/50v X 1
- 4.7uF/50v X 1 (105 degree hi-temp)
- 100uF/50v X 2
TONE
- 4.7uF/50v X 2 (muse)
I tried to specifiy what kind of capacitor they were. Hopefully this is helpful to anyone thinking about recapping their C-2a. Use at your own risk!
PHONO
- 100uF/25v X 4
- 4.7uF/50v X 2 (muse)
- 470uF/6.3v X 4
POWER & MAIN
- 680uF/63v X 2
- 1uF/50v X 1
- 10uF/50v X 6 (muse)
- 47uF/16v X 1
- 10uF/50v X 3 (105 degree hi-temp)
- 4.7uF/50v X 1
- 4.7uF/50v X 1 (105 degree hi-temp)
- 100uF/50v X 2
TONE
- 4.7uF/50v X 2 (muse)
I tried to specifiy what kind of capacitor they were. Hopefully this is helpful to anyone thinking about recapping their C-2a. Use at your own risk!
You can stick with 680uf 63v, just use the Panasonic or Nichicon PM or PW. Mouser has stock on them
mr.muddles
Super Member
Thanks for chiming in DeltaB, I have been following your M-80 thread and might make some adjustments depending on what you do to yours... Was curious about the KG for the 1000uF/100v caps...
I ended up getting HW, PW, and FG for the 680uf/63v. Not sure which one is the "best" series out of those for this application...
The KG Type III has 680uf 63v, but they simply aren't available anywhere, and you wouldn't want to invest in minimum stock purchase. It would depend on the current requirements for the cap. I would start with the FG if it were mine. In my M-80, the current required is what drove the KG selection.
mr.muddles
Super Member
Yes, DeltaB... I was talking about my M-80. I just recapped my M-80 a couple days ago. I put in KW in the 1000uF/100v.
The KW is only rated 1.3 amps of current. The circuit pulled over 2 under peaks. It's why I used the KG which is rated at 2.75 amps, and part of the Nichicon audio series.
mr.muddles
Super Member
Maybe down the road I will swap out the KW's for some KG's as the ones you chose... is this selection for longevity, sonic improvement, or both? No need to explain the technical reasons as I probably won't understand... just in layman's terms...
mr.muddles
Super Member
I have them saved and will add them to my cart next time I order parts from Mouser. What you said makes sense... did you use some bench tools to figure out the current of that circuit in the M-80... just wondering how I can also look at the ripple on capacitors and compare that to it's application to make more informed choices in the future... is the current listed in the service manual somewhere?
Yes, current was read in circuit with an ammeter. Think of a capacitor as a battery that holds a charge, but rather than releasing it slowly, it does it instantly. The amount of current that it can pass, is it's ripple current rating. When you exceed that, then it overheats. The current info is not listed in the manual, however, this is when you go back to the original spec used, and if that's not available, then you have to measure it. Same as with any other device.
mr.muddles
Super Member
Thanks.
You're welcome. Just always remember, if the device you're using to replace another with has much smaller diameter leads, you may want to double check it's current rating first. On the M-80, when you get to increasing the bias from 10~15mA to upwards of 80mA+ in Auto Class A, and start driving it hard, it does take some current to keep it all fed. The one place you don't want to run out of gas is at WOT.
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