Right Speaker (STEREO) Goes Out After A Few Minutes

[Kevbo]

Correct! Kevin, you do NOT need jumpers from pre-out to main-in as is required in most amps. Undoubtedly those internal make/break connections were installed by Marantz to make life easier for their customers. Just check this forum for the number of people who lose or misplace their jumpers. Then there are a number of people who experience corrosion in the jumpers as the metals in contact are dissimilar.

The point of the jacks and they are a very nice thing to have is flexibility. These jacks allow you to use the Marantz's pre-amp as the input to another power amp. Supposing you had a super 500 watt power amp, but you still wanted an excellent pre-amp feeding the signal to it. That's what the pre-out is for. In addition, supposing you wanted to bi-amp your speakers and have a single volume control. In this case, like above, you'd feed the pre-out to a strong power amp to drive the woofers and you'd use the power amp in the Marantz to drive the high frequency drivers.

Finally, Kevin, the main-ins allow you to use the Marantz's power amp without having to use its pre-amp. For example, supposing you like the sound of tube amplifiers, but don't have a tube amp big enough to drive your particular speakers. You could use a tube pre-amp as the input to Marantz's power amp. This way you could achieve that "warm tube amp sound", yet still have sufficient power to drive your speakers.

In short, those jacks provide enormous flexibility and are a good thing to have.

Regards,
Jerry

Thanks for the explanation! That definitely makes sense now that I am reading it. So far, everything is still working. Weird that it was the Tape Monitor Pot, but as @WaynerN stated, the signal runs through all of these, so it makes sense once explained. Thanks, everyone!

 

[bshorey]

It did come back on, and it also went off if it did it a couple more times, but then it also came back on after another time or two. Alright, I will start pressing it like a mad man and see if signal sticks around longer than an hour, which I won't be able to actually "test" until tomorrow, but I will do the "dirty" work now.

The signal is supposed to cut out when you press the tape monitor button, and supposed to cut back in again when you press it again.

bs

 

[Kevbo]

The signal is supposed to cut out when you press the tape monitor button, and supposed to cut back in again when you press it again.

bs

That part I know, and I guess I should have explained that better at the time. Yes, the entire signal goes out when depressed, but when the signal should have been back on after releasing it, the signal was out again in the right speaker. But all is well now!

 

[mech986]

I don't know this receiver but if it doesn't need jumpers there, it must have a switch somewhere that switches between an internal connection vs. those jacks on the rear panel. Or, it automatically senses whether anything is plugged in and switches itself internally. Check your owners manual, and if you don't have one, you should find it on the web somewhere.

BTW, the socket on the receiver is a 'jack', what you plug into it is a cable. In the case of pre-out/main jacks, 'jumpers' are sometimes used, basically a really short cable.

Sure sounds like a connection or switch contact not quite making contact, but follow the advice above and it should reveal itself.

As noted, the pre-out/main in jacks are internally connected and constructed to be normally closed (connected) with no jumper in them. When a jumper or RCA plug is installed, the signal is then routed to the cable plug and not internally.

IMO, since the contacts internally may be small or even tiny point contacts, and can suffer from oxidation and corrosion over time, it is useful to consider using a short and decent quality RCA stereo interconnect cable to connect the pre-out/main in (Right to right, left to left) - the surface area of contact is much larger and gets a useful wipe each time the plug is inserted or twisted plus has much more area for DeOxit to be effective. Also, the large external ground surface is useful and cleanable, although I suspect the internal ground connections are directly soldered or connected.

The signal is supposed to cut out when you press the tape monitor button, and supposed to cut back in again when you press it again.

bs

Yes, and that's why the crackling and intermittent noise and signal occur with monitor button actuation - the very low levels of signal aren't enough to cut through any accumulated oxidation. Same thing with any other additional tape monitor, Dolby, tone control in/out, balance controls, etc. Because so many different switches, controls, filters, selector switches are included in a receiver, its important to consider each one and get them cleaned.