Sansui 2000...no sound + knob static

Kevin Lee

New Member
1 owner Sansui 2000 bought IN Japan by Dad in Air Force in late 60's. All OEM, no repairs, ever. One cleaning due to scratch and static blowing through with radio/tape sound/knob turning/etc. Dad fixed it 10 years ago.
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Now: No sound. I took it, opened it up, still clean, and hooked up a speaker to it. Nothing. Then, I started lightly thumping and bumping it, resistors, caps, frame, everywhere, etc. Sound comes back , in and out, high and low, little static and no static. Bump it just right and you'll get a proper sound at a proper volume. BUT, this moment/vol level always recedes into nothingness or a lower vol with static.
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So, 2 questions:
1) A good ole compressed air and De OXit will solve it?
2) And I see a lot of mentions of replacing caps. How do you know when and how do you identify what needs replacing.
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Many thanks, ya'll. We just lost Dad and Mom has no stereo/radio now. My Brother and I will keep this beast running! As a kid I used to listen to it with albums and his AWESOME TEAC reel to reel...still mint. Please help?
 
I would start with deoxit and go from there.I've had a couple of units from around that time and they all needed work.
 
No doubt it needs work by now. That said, I'd use a plastic rod, toothbrush handle or something, to tap various parts and locate the problem. It could be anything from a bad solder joint to a corroded lead losing contact with the cap it's connected to. Since it's both channels, that narrows things down, probably to the power supply or something common to both. If you're using the tuner for the input, it could be dropping out; try some other input.
 
More interestingly, perhaps, is that the unit contains output coupling caps, like the 3000. There are no doubt similar factory updates (from about 1970) for this output scheme.

However, cleaning and inspection come first, including that deoxidizing control and switch treatment.
 
Done a lotta tapping in a lotta places, lotta "static bursts" in lotta places. Plenty of these could be from tapping "near" a problem area too hard, of course...contaminating the rudimentary test. Lemme guess, these aren't fluid-filled electrolytic caps that will bulge and show an obvious sign? I'm goin to have to get a little more scientific in the approach here so as to not waste lot of time, money and effort. Any better approach to conder in the meanwhile? AND...in that meanwhile, I'll revisit and retry exploratory "tapping" approach to see if I can logically deduce anything for relative certain. I do thank you, gents, for sure. Many thanks. Want to restore the function of this old beast.
 
Got my D5 DeOxit. I've cracked 'er open, pulled the knobs/locknuts off, pulled the faceplate off...how deep do I have to go in disassembly/teardown for best results to remove this crackle/static/no output at random problem? At least as far as the DeOxit procedure goes, please? I understand that bad caps are likely also, but for now, wouldn't the "clean-up" be the first step? And if there is a video 101 on how to do this cleaning and where to focus, that would be a bonus. I'm no stranger to engineering, tools, DIY, and rescuing electronics by replacing caps, etc....but this is old school vintage and it was my Dad's and it REALLY matters to me. Apoogies for any newbie tripe, but I do indeed thank you! It's only been 3 months since Dad left us. please advise.
Kevin
 
If its making sounds when tapping around, it sure sounds like a cold solder joint somewhere. It wouldn't hurt anything and it probably needs it but I would go through it and re-solder or dab solder on every connection to the circuit board.

One of my friends owns a Phase Linear preamp and he said that when he got it, it didn't work. A little research and he found someone who had the same problem and that person said that every solder connection was bad or cold. Might not be your problem, but it does have that ring to it.
 
I like that, CENTURY TEK, thx. Step one is the clean. Had mad static in tuner knob and esp Bass knob, maybe Treble 15 years ago and Dad did a clean of some sort that resolved it...all I know. It was "dead", no radio sound when I got to it....just need to know how far to tear down to do the deoxit clean properly and move on from there. Like I said, when I got it it and tested and started bumping/tapping around then I got crackles of life. Or is it all part and parcel? Wish someone could lay out the logical procedure for troubleshooting and cleaning for best results. Thanks, all!
 
Still need help or a redirect...PLEEEEASE! Most importantly how much disassembly? I'm here...see pic, pls. And thanks!sansui 1.jpg sansui 2.jpg Sorry, I said: I've cracked 'er open, pulled the knobs/locknuts off, pulled the faceplate off...how deep do I have to go in disassembly/teardown for best results to remove this crackle/static/no output at random problem? At least as far as the DeOxit procedure goes, please? I understand that bad caps are likely also, but for now, wouldn't the "clean-up" be the first step? And if there is a video 101 on how to do this cleaning and where to focus, that would be a bonus. I'm no stranger to engineering, tools, DIY, and rescuing electronics by replacing caps, etc....but this is old school vintage and it was my Dad's and it REALLY matters to me. Apoogies for any newbie tripe, but I do indeed thank you! It's only been 3 months since Dad left us. please advise. ME:
 
Ok, cleaned once, worked everything that was moveable...over and over and over. Knobs freed-up, etc. Still had similar crackle/static...THEN...started tryng to locate source by tapping, etc. Stay with me...the upright PCB/circuit board (vertical) right behind the bulb assy in pics above, If I put tension on it with my finger and continue to tap...NOTHING. No static, crackle, etc. Let loose of borard...prob returns. Shut it down for couple days, came back and did one more second clean and emptied the can of D5 just in case. Came back two days later AND NOW THIS...no RADIO sound, no crackle no static. And when tuning the FM the level meter only goes to maybe halfway (3) where as previously, even in prior "uncleaned" condition, It still pegged out on the strong stations and gave me the noise. Now, according to the meter, half-strength meter reading on FM and NO sound output. So what did I do? All lights on. All fuses good. PROTECTION light off. Tell me I didn't kill Dad's stereo, PLS! And yes, gulp!, I did spray places other than the pots. Help me Obi-Wan Kenobi, you're my only hope.
 
Maybe a little late for this: http://audiokarma.org/forums/index.php?threads/the-idiots-guide-to-using-deoxit-revisited.207005/

Emptied the can?? That's a lot! Just a little bit (a few drops worth) inside of each pot, work the pots, then maybe a second application / work, ought to be enough. Good idea to follow with a few drops worth of fader lube, to re-lubricate the pots.
Shouldn't be a need to remove knobs / faceplate. The part you need to get to is on the other (inside) side.

Where did you spray all of the Deoxit? Others with more experience than I will probably have insights on what to do next. Knowing where you sprayed it should help with that.

No matter what, it's probably a good idea to take a break and wait until you get some solid suggestions, before continuing on. This receiver has been in the family since the '60s. No hurry in getting anything done on it... Better to take your time!
 
Ok, cleaned once, worked everything that was moveable...over and over and over. Knobs freed-up, etc. Still had similar crackle/static...THEN...started tryng to locate source by tapping, etc. Stay with me...the upright PCB/circuit board (vertical) right behind the bulb assy in pics above, If I put tension on it with my finger and continue to tap...NOTHING. No static, crackle, etc. Let loose of borard...prob returns. Shut it down for couple days, came back and did one more second clean and emptied the can of D5 just in case. Came back two days later AND NOW THIS...no RADIO sound, no crackle no static. And when tuning the FM the level meter only goes to maybe halfway (3) where as previously, even in prior "uncleaned" condition, It still pegged out on the strong stations and gave me the noise. Now, according to the meter, half-strength meter reading on FM and NO sound output. So what did I do? All lights on. All fuses good. PROTECTION light off. Tell me I didn't kill Dad's stereo, PLS! And yes, gulp!, I did spray places other than the pots. Help me Obi-Wan Kenobi, you're my only hope.

Sounds like you have a bad soldered joint on the pre amp board. Did you happen to use deoxit or anything else on the variable tuning capacitor? Is your FM muting button engaged?
 
Dry joints seemed to be your original issue, but now you've emptied a full can of deoxit into it and been pressing on circuit boards constantly it could be anything now, this needs to go to a tek before it's gone forever
 
I fear Red is assuming the worst and that I went in ham-handed with prybar, a sledgehammer and a case of beer...sonds like. Though I did go in w/out an audio tech degree. Bygones. Only a very light slight flex of the vert board with horizontal pressure stops the crackle/static. So...Let's assume i DID spray other than the pots AND that I did NOT bend any circuit boards beyond 45 degrees (LOL) and rupture a solder. What specifically would a misuse of the deoxit have affected to give now NO output sound and a lowered lever on the reception meter. No more Mr dumb guy...I'm waiting for possible next moves other than taking it in. thx.
 
How about looking for service manual so you know what you're touching/moving/etc. I have a 5000 from the same era, all the soldering was put on pretty heavy so I don't think a cold solder is the problem (though I have been wrong many times) but perhaps something else was brittle.
 
When you clean controls you must spray the cleaner into any opening you can find in the body of the controls, not on the board, not on the tuning dial cord, not on the shaft and NEVER on the tuning capacitor, the thing with the fins on it.
If the board is wet, clean it off with alcohol and Q tips. If you sprayed it into the tuning cap you need to get some non - residue contact cleaner and spray the tuning cap to flush away the De-oxit. Getting it on the tuning cap de-tunes the rf circuitry.
 
Ok, got educated. Var Tuning Cap definitely got some deoxit...feel prety sure on that. My stupidity aside...assumption confirmed. Next...?
 
When you clean controls you must spray the cleaner into any opening you can find in the body of the controls, not on the board, not on the tuning dial cord, not on the shaft and NEVER on the tuning capacitor, the thing with the fins on it.
If the board is wet, clean it off with alcohol and Q tips. If you sprayed it into the tuning cap you need to get some non - residue contact cleaner and spray the tuning cap to flush away the De-oxit. Getting it on the tuning cap de-tunes the rf circuitry.
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And at least someone can do it without sounding condescending, or telling you to take a jab/rib. And that's every tech board. You're presumed to be a dumma** and addressed as so in large part until you prove you aren't...instead of a simple "coach and council" approach. Ego. Too much here and everywhere to remind folks how dare they come here and "do that" and ask a question. Do you condescend to your children, OR be satisfied in your own knowledge and worth and be the bigger man and help them learn constructively without cutting them up...even a little bit, t feed your head? Yeah, too many tech board "residents" do it. Just the facts, ma'am. Thank you kindly, Dr Audio. I'll report back. And kindly thanks to the rest as well, minus the obvious. You mean well...I'll give you that. Signed - Thinned Skinned and Smart A**ed! :)
 
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