Sansui 2000A recap list wanted and knob issue

thanks so much for finding the specific link and detailed procedures for me. I appreciate. This is good price I feel it is easier to afford a recap. Also I always learnt something from you guys in forum.


My go-to cap for the 2000 series is the Nichicon LGU2A272MELC, 2700 uF, 100 VDC. They usually come in on the lower end of tolerance, so are a good match. You'll need three.
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Nichicon/LGU2A272MELC/?qs=/ha2pyFaduh/O1WymznZehyLDzuh0qxT2kkoemaczDpFM3iUNaIJdQ==
It's 35 mm diameter so it fits the clamps. Just dress your wires neatly to solder them to the non-terminal PCB leads. You can also extend them a bit with a short piece of heavy copper buss wire if necessary.

Caveat- Check the size in your unit. I think it's the same as the 2000x, but not 100% positive.
 
Where did you buy capacitors from? I went to eBay it seems all these parts are expensive. 3 of 1000uf larger capacitors ask for $20 more. Two kinds of lamps together cost about $40. Plus some small capacitors and transistors, it is more than $120 at least. Maybe back in few years ago price could be lower?

Yes good advice from ConradH, don't but off Ebay as this is probably a good source of fake parts, best to buy from one of the large reputable suppliers, l usually use Mouser or Element 14 (Farnell). Yes you can go up in voltage to get the right size filter or output caps to suit your original clamps.

Yes WD40 worked amazingly. I pried out the outer knob by using 2 spoons and applied a single stream on the shaft where close to the root of the control. That place is actually inside of facepanl but with the straw on WD40 bottle I am able to reach that area.
Cheers. Thank you.

Great news, your welcome, glad it became free for you.
 
2000A and 2000X will use the same caps. You'd be better off with 100v caps as the line voltage increase from 1968 has the stock voltage caps almost at their max voltage ratings. Same in a lesser degree with smaller caps so go up one step in voltage it doesn't hurt the unit any.
In power supply caps go with a Nichicon UPW or UHE series cap.
Everything else that is electrolytic use UKL series.
.1 to 1uf caps you can use film caps (Cornell Dublier DME series or Panasonic ECQ type) Note that the Panasonics are no longer being made and are being phased out.


Replace all of the 2sc458's with ksc1845's or on of Conrads' replacement #'s listed in his treatise http://conradhoffman.com/Sansui2000x_mods.htm on the 2000X. You can do all of mods on the "A", they work beautifully!

Larry
 
I have to apologize for that page because I keep adding info and it's getting a bit random and hard to remember. Doubt I'll ever have time for a full re-write. The ksc1845 works great on the tone board, but watch out on the phono board. The 2nd transistors there are a bit fussy about gain. Too much or too little will change the response and you may not like it. That's important because all signals go through the phono board- they just switch the eq in and out. I don't replace the transistors on the phono board unless there's actually a problem. That PS cap I listed is 100V and 105C, but there are many others that will do as well. I use a lot of the UKL series and the ECQ films- too bad those are going away. It's a proprietary "mystery film", sort of a polyester, but seems to sound good.
 
That's important because all signals go through the phono board- they just switch the eq in and out.

I have read on here somewhere that a couple of people weren't that happy with the sound of their 2000's after replacing some of the 2SC458's with the KSC1845's, they must have been in these positions that you mention. So do ALL inputs go through only these second position transistors on the eq board then the selector switch brings in the rest of the eq board for phono?
 
It's a two transistor circuit and yes, all signals go through the entire thing. When you switch the selector switch, it just inserts or removes the RIAA parts for phono. AFAIK, the first two transistors can be replaced by KSC1845 or various other parts, but the second two need to have the same hfe as the originals, about 200, not much higher and not much lower. As I said, if there's no noise or other problem, I leave them alone. On most units the caps on the phono board will be OK, but the only way to know is to test them. Always change the white CS series input caps if present. They get leaky. Those board also seem to have some sort of semi-plated holes. Not sure exactly, but component removal is much more difficult than the usual single sided board. I like to carefully tilt it horizontal, then put a suitable spacer under the edge so it can take the force of the iron and sucker.
 
It's a two transistor circuit and yes, all signals go through the entire thing. When you switch the selector switch, it just inserts or removes the RIAA parts for phono. AFAIK, the first two transistors can be replaced by KSC1845 or various other parts, but the second two need to have the same hfe as the originals, about 200, not much higher and not much lower. As I said, if there's no noise or other problem, I leave them alone. On most units the caps on the phono board will be OK, but the only way to know is to test them. Always change the white CS series input caps if present. They get leaky. Those board also seem to have some sort of semi-plated holes. Not sure exactly, but component removal is much more difficult than the usual single sided board. I like to carefully tilt it horizontal, then put a suitable spacer under the edge so it can take the force of the iron and sucker.

Great info ConradH, very useful :thumbsup:.
 
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