Sansui 6060 Question

Discussion in 'Exclusively Sansui' started by misterguitar, Apr 24, 2017.

  1. misterguitar

    misterguitar AK Subscriber Subscriber

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    My wife has a friend at work. an older lady who has a Sansui 6060. Said it had some problems with crackling and the "channels being off". I got it open and was shocked at how brown and dusty it was! Apparently it has been in a heavy smoker home since new. lol The wife volunteered me to fix it and now I'm wondering what I got myself into. Cleaning out the grunge isn't a problem. I have a large tank I fill with Isopropyl and a paintbrush and go to town. For the nicotine stains I use very dilute ammonia which I find both removes the smell and the stains. I was also going to remove the heat sink and regrease them as the old stuff looks cooked! Is there a way to get that heat sink out without having to unsolder wires? Whats the best way to get at these things?
     
  2. LBPete

    LBPete Rolling Along Subscriber

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    The 6060 had a major production change during it's run. Does yours have an aluminum heat sink sitting vertically in the middle of the chassis or are the output transistors mounted flat across the back of the power supply board? If you have the vertical heat sink you should be able to remove the power transistors and their sockets without removing any wires. I don't remember if there are any circuit boards connected to that heat sink. If there are, they should be removable without disconnecting wires.

    Please post the serial number for the database. Click on the link in my signature block.

    - Pete
     
  3. misterguitar

    misterguitar AK Subscriber Subscriber

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    Yeah this is a vertical heatsink. Finally got all the pots deoxed and the boards cleaned. Got the service manual from hifi engine. It fires up, relay clicks. a lot of popping sporadic noise from speakers. Radio reception even on antenna is terrible and it appears the signal meter is off. Even if I put it in Aux mode I hear occasional clicks and pops. I usually start ut by checking the power supply. Based on the circuit it appears board 2648 is the power supply PCB. Looking for places to check voltage readings to make sure the power supply is working.
     
  4. LBPete

    LBPete Rolling Along Subscriber

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    If it has the vertical heat sink, it has the updated power supply board. The schematic in the service manual only shows the earlier PS board. You can get the correct schematic from the AK Digital Docs.

    Sounds like the tuner cap needs to be cleaned. There's a great thread in the tuner forum on the best way to clean it.

    - Pete
     
  5. misterguitar

    misterguitar AK Subscriber Subscriber

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    Cool! I'll go look for it. Where can I find this digital doc archive here?
     
  6. LBPete

    LBPete Rolling Along Subscriber

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    Scroll through the main forum menu. It's at the bottom of the Audio Section.

    - Pete
     
  7. misterguitar

    misterguitar AK Subscriber Subscriber

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    ok. So one question. I'm guessing if I recap anything on the AM/FM receiver board, some type of realignment will be necessary. I have a Sencore SG165 and an HP 333A Dist Analyzer. Haven't had the guts to do an alignment yet due to lack of experience. Is it horrible on this unit?
     
  8. misterguitar

    misterguitar AK Subscriber Subscriber

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    The other thing I'm noticing is the numbers on the schematic for the 6060 do not match up with what is actually in this receiver. Particularly board F2648 the power board. C608 on the schematic is listed as 1000uf 63v but is actually 2200uf 63v, There are a ton of discrepancies. I'm guessing I should probably go off what is in the receiver vs. what is on the actual schematic.
     
  9. Oldsansui441

    Oldsansui441 AK Subscriber Subscriber

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    Yes you are correct def go off what is in the receiver itself if they look original. In regards to the tuner, l have successfully replaced caps on tuner boards before without altering the alignment, just don't touch the transistors and you should be fine.
     
  10. LBPete

    LBPete Rolling Along Subscriber

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    Go back and look at post #2, you need the later schematic. Your unit has a completely different power supply board than the one shown in the service manual. That said, it's never a good idea to use the parts list in the service manual to purchase caps. Production changes were common and the only way to be sure is to read the markings on each cap. Then replace them one at a time to be sure that you get the polarity right.

    As far as your tuner goes, replacing the electrolytic caps won't affect the alignment. Next, it's always a good idea to repair all problems to get everything working before doing a complete recap. That way if you make a mistake during the recap, it will be obvious and won't confuse original problems. What you tuner probably needs is to be cleaned. Do that first.

    - Pete
     
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  11. misterguitar

    misterguitar AK Subscriber Subscriber

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    Gotcha. I took it outside and completely sprayed it down with 98% isopropyl alcohol. Worked great at removing the dust and especially the tobacco tar and nicotine. You can see through the meters now! It appears whatever they used as a conformal coating on the boards is soluable with isopropyl. I'm guessing some kind of lacquer or shellac? So I have a very cloudy coating of this still remaining on some boards and has run over other parts of the chasis. I'm using a standard pump sprayer from the home depot and rinsing with distilled water and a final rinse of isopropyl to aid in drying. I then put the chasis in a small room with a dehumidifier.
     
  12. misterguitar

    misterguitar AK Subscriber Subscriber

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    Interestingly I pulled the updated schematic from the site here and the value son many of the caps are still off from what is actually in the receiver! Makes me wonder if it was recapped at some other time prior? All the caps are black United Chemicom?
    Needless to say I'm working on finishing up the cleaning today. I'll post a before/after pic. I ordered repalcement caps for the unit from mouser. Got Panasonic FC's for the power supply section and Elna Slimic /Nichicon FG for the amp, tone, and phono board sections. I got Wima films and nichicons for the 3.3uf and lower. I figured I'd go with whichever one sounds better. I have a pair of nichicon Gold tones in my box I'm going to use for the filters. I did some poking around and getting filter caps for this with the correct lead spacing seems to eb abear. May have to cut apart the old cans and stuff the gold tones inside? I learned from my wife the lady who owns this just got down with a round of cancer treatment and she says she 's itching to listen to her vinyl again so I want to make sure it sounds real good for her!
     
  13. LBPete

    LBPete Rolling Along Subscriber

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    If you bought your caps based on the service manual or schematics, you are going to find discrepancies between what you bought and what's on the actual boards. Sansui is famous for making running changes during production that are not reflected in the service literature. Unless you see obvious prior repair work, it's unlikely anyone has changed caps and what you see is what Sansui put on the board in production.

    Re-stuff cap cans is overkill for a 6060.

    - Pete
     
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  14. misterguitar

    misterguitar AK Subscriber Subscriber

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    True but It seems all the caps now have 10mm lead spacing for snap ins. these look more like close to 20mm how are others making the smaller lead spacing on modern caps work? There does appear to have been some prior work at some point. Was looking at the output transistors and one is labeled MArantz. lol
     
  15. misterguitar

    misterguitar AK Subscriber Subscriber

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    OK. So I'm knee deep in this one now! Caps came in but some stuff was back-ordered. Getting all the filth out of this chassis was an experience.

    So my new problem is this. In getting the heat sink out I manged to chip a resistor on the power board. and reading the color band for me is next to impossible.

    The board in this unit is also one that is not in the service manual or any schematics so I am at a loss as to what its value is. It is R03 on board F2701. I did some searching here and it appears this board is not well documented. Story of my life. It looks a LOT like the two resistors next to it in the other photo. Anybody know what the value was on these or who may have an acurate schematic for this? I'm ready to order a replacement but I have no idea what it is!
     

    Attached Files:

  16. Oldsansui441

    Oldsansui441 AK Subscriber Subscriber

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  17. misterguitar

    misterguitar AK Subscriber Subscriber

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    Wow Thanks! This is a godsend! SO now my question is what is a fuseable resistor? I know about fuses and resistors but not a combo device? Is that a special kind? I'm guessing these are carbon comp?
     
  18. LBPete

    LBPete Rolling Along Subscriber

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    Sansui used a lot of fusable resistors in the mid 1970s. They are supposed to go open if there is too much current flow through them. Unfortunately they also have a tendency to increase their resistance value or fail completely over time. It's a good idea to replace them with 1/4w metal film resistors.

    - Pete
     
  19. misterguitar

    misterguitar AK Subscriber Subscriber

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    Ok now I'm trying to figure out capacitor C704. It looks like a film cap in plastic jacket. .033 uf. Assuming it's a snubber. Since its in paralell with the power switch. The outside pinkish brown coating is peeling off. Trying to decipher the numbers to get the AC or DC voltage ratings. Since this is in the line power path its only that it needs to be film and of the right voltage rating right?
     
  20. N8Nagel

    N8Nagel AK Subscriber Subscriber

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    If it's on line power I'd use a "safety capacitor" of the appropriate value.
     

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