Discussion in 'Exclusively Sansui' started by IndyAudio, Nov 5, 2017.
thanks so much for the help here!!!
Don't mention it... let us know how it goes.
Pete, is the F2624 driver board in the 9090DB/8080DB interchangeable as is or do they have different value caps and resistors?
The F-2624 driver board can be swapped into a 9090DB, 8080DB or 7070. There was a major revision to the board about halfway through production but the early and late boards are interchangeable with no modification.
A slightly different version of this board was also used in the QRX-9001/8001. I haven't looked at it closely enough to see if it is interchangeable with the X0X0 series.
The big ones circled at the top of the pic are not fusable resistors. Per the SM any ways.
Your are correct sir, I think are N.I.R (non-inflamable resistor) not sure... I had some bad on one G8000 and one bad on my 9090, so thought worth the while to check them just in case
Is the one that you are servicing, the one in question?
I'm glad to read that! That's a good looking board, mine was a mess.
BTW Rob looking for the jumper on my board, I just notice that mine has 2 ceramic resistors(3W 10ΩK) mirrored, but on your board I see just one. Probably you just took care of that, but again... just in case.
It's just a different version, I saw some on internet with just one resistor, with jumper too.
@Hipocrates does your board have the fuses? I recall there being something in the way when inserting the board so they moved the resistor to the back side of the board.
Here is the back side.
Yupe, two big fuses like yours.
Skillfully done! Great work on the board!
Inserted the freshened up board, after depressing the power button heard the lovely sound of the "click" and saw a green LED!!! It's alive again! Tomorrow will be cleaning all switches and pots.
I wanted to publicly thanks Robisme for making this happen. When I posted originally looking for someone to redo the board, Rob reached out and offered to do the job for me. I sent him the board and it was quickly returned, all parts needing replaced properly, and it is the reason this vintage Sui is breathing life again. Rob, a HUGE THANK YOU for your kindness, generosity, and for helping a total AK stranger. Good karma will come back to you in spades my friend.
Congrats IndyAudio on getting a fine receiver working.
Now that IndyAudio has his receiver going I have a question that fits right in with this topic. I have a 9090db that I think has the same problem. I have an 8080db that is not functioning correctly and has been down for about 1 1/2 years and am going to take the driver board out of the 9090db and replace it with the one in the 8080db. How should I start this up on a variac to make sure that I don't take out the fused resistors from the 8080db board?
I also want to thank LBPete for letting me know that these two boards are interchangeable.
I am not the most knowledgeable for sure, but I don't think you need or should use a Variac on solid state? I have one and use it only on tube gear that has been out of circulation. Please let the experts correct me if wrong here. Otherwise, if the board is interchangeable you should be able to plug in and fire it right up. Good news is there are 2 outboard resistors on the DB board that seem to be the culprits, and easy fix.
Use a dim bulb tester. It's better than a Variac because it both limits current and gives a very graphic visual reference for current draw. It's a simple and cheap device to make. Google it, there are lots of on-line tutorials.
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