26.3 microfarads is certainly almost within 10%.
Sansui 9900/11000 Recap
- Thread starter Fredrik 1977
- Start date
Fredrik 1977
Super Member
next up is the main caps and to remove those this rectifier board has to come out.
yep! there they are
yep! there they are
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Fredrik 1977
Super Member
well turns out the spacing on the oringinal screw terminals are about 16mm and the new ones has 22mm
as you can see on the pic above this might become a problem,
i´ll make some new lead bar.....things... tomorrow if needed.
as you can see on the pic above this might become a problem,
i´ll make some new lead bar.....things... tomorrow if needed.
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Fredrik 1977
Super Member
one beer later and some progress...maybe it wasnt such i problem after all, i just bent the bar a little so it would fit.
i was afraid it wouldnt fit the screw hole in the pcb when doing this but it did...it took some aligning screw holes back and forth but eventually it all came together
moving onto psu board F-2582 the one with the relay.
i was afraid it wouldnt fit the screw hole in the pcb when doing this but it did...it took some aligning screw holes back and forth but eventually it all came together
moving onto psu board F-2582 the one with the relay.
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Fredrik 1977
Super Member
old psu board, some of the caps on this board had drifted some, worst was a 3,3/50 that tested 5uf, 10 esr , Vloss 5%
have yet not seen any prior work done inside the unit.
recaped psu board, with new relay
Panasonic FC was used on this board
and the main caps
have yet not seen any prior work done inside the unit.
recaped psu board, with new relay
Panasonic FC was used on this board
and the main caps
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Awesome! I really like seeing the step by step progress and the excellent pictures. Thanks from all of us about to approach this in the future!
Hi.
Never posted here before.
As the owner of this wonderful amplifier i know the two people who had it since it was new.
I´m pretty shure no work has been done inside until now.
So it was about time now when it has done some 40 years of service.
My friend Fredrik has previusly done a wonderful job with my SX-636. I really like that one.
And i hope i get blown away this time to.
Fredrik 1977
Super Member
Just throwing out a question about the 220BP cap i was talking about earlier.
Leav it alone or do a diy BP cap with 2 regular 100 back to back.?
Leav it alone or do a diy BP cap with 2 regular 100 back to back.?
No. (it's part of the sensing circuit for excessive output voltage at the speaker terminals).
A pair of back to back (+ to +) polar electrolytics will work. However, I recommend getting a 'Plain Jane' bipolar 220µF capacitor (Panasonic SU series) - no need for an audio grade capacitor here - and get at least a 16V one.
Like this http://uk.farnell.com/panasonic-electronic-components/ecea1cn221x/cap-alu-elec-220uf-16v-rad/dp/2326011?st=Bipolar electrolytic capacitors
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Fredrik 1977
Super Member
Welcome 2-ch! so you found your way in here at last
that 636 was awesome! i agree..was a little sad to see it leave...but i knew you were gonna be happy with it. original owner and all.
Fredrik 1977
Super Member
Fredrik 1977
Super Member
Next up is the driver board F-2583
i have been somewhat spared from the most booring thing there is to do in this world....cleaning GLUE!
only 2 caps so far on the regulated psu board was glued.
on this driver board 4 caps are glued.
stock board looks like this
i have been somewhat spared from the most booring thing there is to do in this world....cleaning GLUE!
only 2 caps so far on the regulated psu board was glued.
on this driver board 4 caps are glued.
stock board looks like this
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Fredrik 1977
Super Member
also found four DS-430 Diodes wich i´ll be replacing with 1N4148
Fredrik 1977
Super Member
Riaa F-2570 board
this one had 2 surprise caps on the foilside
this one had 2 surprise caps on the foilside
Fredrik 1977
Super Member
noticed also that driver board in this unit isnt the same as in the schematic,this unit has F-2583 while the SM covers the F-2580
and there are different cap values on the riaa board from what i can see in the schematic.
C07,08 is 1uf on-board and 0,47 in schematic
C03,04 is 3,3uf on board and 10 in manual
i replaced C07/08 with 1uf Wima MKS2
moving on to pre-amp/tone
if i can find my way in there
and there are different cap values on the riaa board from what i can see in the schematic.
C07,08 is 1uf on-board and 0,47 in schematic
C03,04 is 3,3uf on board and 10 in manual
i replaced C07/08 with 1uf Wima MKS2
moving on to pre-amp/tone
if i can find my way in there
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Fredrik 1977
Super Member
well it was pretty easy
atleast to get to the pre-amp
just remove this F-2573 board and one gets access to the other pre board F-2574
now the problem seems to be the tone board. havnt figured that one out yet.
atleast to get to the pre-amp
just remove this F-2573 board and one gets access to the other pre board F-2574
now the problem seems to be the tone board. havnt figured that one out yet.
Fredrik 1977
Super Member
Finally got it out
haha looks like a mess. it was not easy getting it back in again! amp is now on warm up will go for the bias and offset soon.
the tone control lol
haha looks like a mess. it was not easy getting it back in again! amp is now on warm up will go for the bias and offset soon.
the tone control lol
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Beautiful work! 
