sansui au-11000 question

If you don't open it up, you certainly don't know what is wrong, modified or no. He says he's got enough work to keep him busy...cool and dandy, he can easily afford to reject units that have been modified (or sprayed, lol!).

When I was a wet-bench tech, these $3-Mil+ benches often had 100+ pages of wiring, PLC logic, controller, and robotics wiring prints, and another 30 to 40 pages of field modifications, often poorly documented. Dealing with mods has been a fact of life for the equipment I have made my living with for my entire career. I can generally handle a few amplifier faux pau's. ;)

WRT audio equipment, I have had people bring stuff to me for years that others refused to work on for something as benign as changing out a bulb to a different voltage 'cause the original was no longer available, so I'm not unfamiliar with the mindset. Indeed, if Soundsmith wants to offer a 1 year warranty on repairs, then their 'no mods' policy is perhaps wise. Leaves more for the rest of us. I also suspect that there are hundreds of great repair places in the NE that simply haven't spent a great deal of money and time putting together a pretty website...if you are supposing that it takes a tech with 30 years of experiance to work on an amplifier, well it doesn't hurt, but I know a high-school kid down the block who built his own ham radio at 12, and is working on a patent for a new style of switched-supply audio amplifier.

Good and bad techs are everywhere. I'd find it hard to believe that any one part of the country has a monopoly on one or the other. If you need some work done, ask around, talk to friends, pop open the Yellow Pages and talk to a few. There's no real black magic in fixing audio gear, despite what some might have you believe. Find someone who is friendly, charges reasonable rates, and isn't going to take 6 months to do the job.

...oh, and it's nice if they don't mind opening up a unit that has had a bulb changed or sprayed with (God forbid) Caig. :D
 
Just as an Update at this point, I wanted to mention that I havent received another email response from The Sound-Smith today so I dont know if he has read the latest messages here or not.

Regardless of whether we agree or disagree with him, I do not wish to make Mr Ledermann feel that we, the members of AK, are interrogating him. There's nothing wrong with expressing differences in opinion, just lets remember not to get carried away and cross the boundaries of common courtesy to start making personal attacks on anyone as doing so would only reflect poorly on AK. I'm not saying that anyone here has done that yet, but I can see this as the type of subject that can become controversial and push some buttons in people (no pun intended) and the next thing ya know, things can get downright nasty.

If Mr Ledermann wishes to repond further, I believe he knows that he is welcome to do so. I will say, I am interested to know more about the Marantz tuner that was mentioned in a previous post- as it seems to contradict their business policy (not accepting units that have been "worked" on before).

Again, I dont want to create a situation where the man is being interoggated, the bottom line is its his business and he can run it any way that he wants to, but I think its certainly permissible to ask some questions (in a courteous manner) with the intention of seeking clarification regarding his viewpoint on testing/repairing Vintage hi fi equipment.

Sincerely, B/F.
 
Well I gotta say based on all the response I just went to parts express and ordered the CAIG Deoxit D5 and Progold spray and figure I will clean the hell out of it and hope for the best. If that doesn't work I send it to them and as BF said, I will tell them I haven't a clue about who opened it, not me!!!!!!!!
 
Okay got the cleaners last night. As I attempt to open the unit I see that I am required to remove the front panel. After checking in the service manual for this unit, I cannot see the allen set screw size (looks to be 3mm) to take the vole knobs, etc off.

Questions:
1. Size of this set screw?
2. The switches (power for example), any tricks to taking them off without incident?
3. Should I go in another way like the bottom?

Thanks!
 
So I couldn't wait. I opened the unit took off the sides pulled out boards and cleaned up all the controls I could get to. The chemicals worked well except for the one problem, the left channel which was completely out is back but weak! Damn! I have only had this unit since March of this year. Now I have to send it out to get fixed.
 
So I finally got some "free" time and I totally dismantled the unit short of removing the faceplate. I cleaned exclusively with Caig and finaished with the progold. 2 hours later tested the unit and voila! not only both channels clear but sounding more open!

Case closed and many, many thanks to all who offered their time and suggestions!
 
Humorous thread.

I've never tried Caig, but I've been using RS TV tuner spray for decades, I also use CRC industrial contact cleaner. One thing to absolutely avoid is silcone based products like WD 40. Silicone is a insulator and that's not what I want on my pots and tuners.

I know I'm preaching to the choir here, but I see analog switches as a simply something that needs a little TLC. When the sound goes "Khkhkhkh", pull the cover, spray the sh!t out of everything that moves, twist & click everything to the the sounds of Chubby Checker, let her dry, & plug her in.

(Unless I have missed the point of this thread and just now learned that I have killed my 35 year old TEAC RTR deck.) ;)
 
Hi Bigyank:

Glad to hear the AU-11000 is working fine again. While all those switches & controls are nice to have on a full-featured model like the AU-11000, it does seem that they are prone to needing periodic cleaning.

Punker X's suggestion about trying a tape deck was a good one. If you notice, there is a block diagram on the top cover which shows the complete signal path and you'll see that the Tape path comes BEFORE the Volume control, so thats one way to try and narrow down where the problem seems to be coming from.

I had a similar problem with my CA-3000 preamp- it would work fine for the first 5 minutes I used it and then all of a sudden the right channel would go out completely. I then found that by turning up the volume control high up and then back down and doing that back and forth quite a few times, brough the channel back. Unfortunately, with all that turning of the knob, the whole knob came right off of the preamp. Its not terribly difficult to put back on- just need the right size hex key and line up the pointer with the volume increments, but my brother is a bit more handier with doing these lil' mechanical type things, so he happened to be over the house and he put the volume control back on for me. We checked inside of the CA-3000 but found that the volume control was sealed on the inside, so you cant apply any cleaning spray to it- atleast you cant unless you proceed to disassemble it further which I wasnt inclined to do at the time. Anyway, we tried the preamp again and one or two times while we were listening to music, both channels would go out but just for a few seconds and then it came back again- and now it seems to be working fine again- I listened to music for about 2 hours last night, no problems. So, I dont know if it will stay fine or not.

If the volume control is sealed, I dont know why it would have any dust-related problems - ?? Is the AU-11000 volume control also sealed on the inside?

As I mightve mentioned before, as much as I like the CA-3000 preamp- the one thing I wish it had was the volume control that the AU-11000, 9900, and CA-2000 preamp have- looks very similar, but notice how the former models- the control is more securely built into the front panel than it is on the CA-3000 (and also AU-20000). I think the CA-3000 & AU-20000 are more prone to having the volume control get loose and "jiggly" if you turn it too much overe time, which doesnt happen with the AU-11000/9900/CA-2000 type. Perhaps Sansui noticed that themselves and made the improvement- the CA-2000 and other Professional Series models came out after (1977) the Defintion Series models (1975).

B/F
 
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