Sansui AU-11000

Discussion in 'Exclusively Sansui' started by Sebastien, Jun 10, 2017.

  1. Sebastien

    Sebastien AK Subscriber Subscriber

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    Hello from Australia!

    I'm trying to save an AU-11000, i picked it up knowing it was going in and out of protection but as i couldn't inspect in person i only really saw the extent of the abusive repairs its gotten over it's life once i received it.

    (check the photos out).

    IMG_5874-1.JPG IMG_5873-1.JPG IMG_5876-1.JPG

    On the bright side its cosmetically quite good and complete.

    Back to the condition and what i can see. Lots of broken traces and repair work, as well as virtually every molex connector has been removed and instead the wires have been soldered to the pins. However it otherwise looks quite original inside with usual Elna caps.

    At any rate, i'm hoping to get some guidance in bringing this out of protection and seeing what can be done.

    I've powered it up twice since i've had it, once in connected mode - it stayed in protection
    Once in separated mode, it came out of protection briefly then jumped in and out until i powered it back down.

    I've had a good look through the amp and have familiarised myself with the boards and what looks suspect.

    I've repaired things in past through instruction and have a basic understanding at what i'm looking at, can anyone tell me to best place to start and i'll begin to do some measurements with the DMM?

    Many thanks for any advice!
     

    Attached Files:

  2. LBPete

    LBPete Rolling Along Subscriber

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    That's some ugly repair work. There are several things going on in that amp. First, the poor repair work needs to be checked/repaired. That may fix it but it's also very possible that old repair work did not fix whatever problem triggered the repair. If that's the case, you will have overlapping problems which greatly complicates the diagnosis. Next, it's a fairly rare model so there is not a large body of diagnostic knowledge on tap or the availability of replacement boards to substitute.
    You have quite a job in front of you and judging from your questions, you are at a pretty basic level. This may not be the project to learn on.

    That said, start by building a dim bulb tester and don't power it up again without one. The DBT is a simple device and there is a lot of information on line on how to build one. Do you have another amplifier or receiver that you can feed the preamp output from the 11000 into? That will help determine what's working and what's not.

    Also, please post the serial number for the database. Click on the link in my signature block.

    - Pete
     
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  3. Overundr1

    Overundr1 AK Subscriber Subscriber

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    That is a shame :(
    To bring it back to its former glory it will take a lot of work on your part.
    I would not power that unit up again unless on a current limiter (dbt).
    First off those hacked boards have to come out and be rewired point to point following the schematics.
    You have a nice piece of Sansui gear there, worth the time and effort to make right.
     
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  4. Sebastien

    Sebastien AK Subscriber Subscriber

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    Thanks for the reply guys, those boards are truly ugly.

    I've just sourced another F-2582 (power supply circuit board for driver amp)

    That'll take care of a lot of the hacking done to this amp, but I'll also need to find a replacement for F-2568, and F-2571.

    Seems common that people remove the molex connectors and directly solder points on these amplifiers, this is no exception. Would love to hear some experiences in replacing new molex connectors back on?

    Cheers everyone, looking forward to sorting this one out I'll put together a DBT in the meantime. When working off a DBT are the voltage measurements going to be low depending on what bulb I use?

    Edit: Yep I also have some other Sansui like 555 and 555a that I can seperate the power amp section on for future testing :)
     
    Last edited: Jun 10, 2017
  5. Overundr1

    Overundr1 AK Subscriber Subscriber

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    Recommend a 100w bulb for that unit, expect 5-7% voltage drop unless you have a major short somewhere.
     
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  6. Sebastien

    Sebastien AK Subscriber Subscriber

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    Great thanks, I've now sourced most replacement boards I need. Except F-2571 and F-2568 so if anyone has one that's reading this ;)

    Time to wait for the postman
     
  7. Hyperion

    Hyperion Roobarb & Custard Subscriber

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  8. Sebastien

    Sebastien AK Subscriber Subscriber

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    Legend, I remember seeing this but forgot where. I'm in the exact same boat as you with that one. I better get a comfier chair before I start...


    EDIT; are you able to please provide links to the Molex connectors and crimps you used? Cant seem to find the spacing in Molex information, only pitch. Unless pitch is spacing? But then nothing in 2.5mm seems to be what you used.
     
    Last edited: Jun 11, 2017
  9. Finjima

    Finjima AK Subscriber Subscriber

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    I have a line on a AU-11000 I can pick up that's in pieces now. I might get it if the price is right and I get all the pieces! I'm interested in how these things go together and your progress in getting this going. take lots of pic's for the rest of us and those who follow
     
  10. Hyperion

    Hyperion Roobarb & Custard Subscriber

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  11. Sebastien

    Sebastien AK Subscriber Subscriber

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    Thanks very much for those links i'll place an order shortly.

    Great! If you don't go for it can you please get in contact with me there are some more boards i need to get this AU11000 as close to original as possible :)

    I will be posting more pictures so stay tuned.

    Thanks
     
  12. naillos

    naillos New Member

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    Off topic but I thought I recognized your listening space, I follow your page on instagram! Best of luck with the repairs and hopefully you'll be enjoying some music through it soon enough.
     
  13. Sebastien

    Sebastien AK Subscriber Subscriber

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    Hey there! Haha that's cool, stay tuned we'll get this thing singing again :)
     
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  14. Sebastien

    Sebastien AK Subscriber Subscriber

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    Hey Hyperion, i noticed you used some single contact molex plugs in your amplifier (looks like a combo of 3+1 in some instances, does this mean the 4 contact 1 row plugs don't quite match up?) though i can't see any available on those sites - are my eyes failing me? :)
     
  15. nj pheonix

    nj pheonix AK Subscriber Subscriber

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    Somebody had boards fabricated boards for an AU-20000.
    If you can't source a board maybe that's an alternative.
     
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  16. Sebastien

    Sebastien AK Subscriber Subscriber

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    Ah really, that's interesting. But it also sounds very costly - i'd have to have something like a BA5000 before i started digging that deep into the bank.

    I've got a bunch of tidy boards on the way, i just need to find F-2568 and F-2571 and we'll be well on our way to an original (i guess you can still call it original) AU-11000 :)

    Anyone reading this with these parts i'd really appreciate if you got in touch.
     
  17. nj pheonix

    nj pheonix AK Subscriber Subscriber

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  18. Sebastien

    Sebastien AK Subscriber Subscriber

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  19. Finjima

    Finjima AK Subscriber Subscriber

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    I seen the boards are from holland or something like that, 99 bucks i think. for the au20000. now I heard there is also a 11000 board some one supost to have made. but I haven,t been able to chase that down, unless they are the same board as the au20000 board.
     
  20. Sebastien

    Sebastien AK Subscriber Subscriber

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    There's an F-2571 board in America that i'm requesting better photos of and postage to see what the cost is going to be.

    Still haven't seen the final board i need which is the F-2568. Once i've got decent boards to work with i'll jump into trouble shooting.
    After the fault is found then i can focus on changing some old capacitors and anything else worth removing. :)
     
    Last edited: Jun 12, 2017

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