Sansui au-717 will not power on

Taking a step back after a year may be a good idea.
Blowing fuses means a short. Most probable reasons for a short is shorted outputs.
This unit has 2 transformers 2 sets of power supplies and 2 sets of primary filters.
While the issue could be bad rectifiers, this is usually not the case.
With power off and the unit unplugged, reinstall good fuses, and measure each large filter cap with a multimeter on ohms scale. They should read as a transistor junction in one direction and open when you reverse the leads. Hopefully the short is only on one side. If you find one or 2 of the filters reading low ohms in both directions when measuring, then the channel they are supporting has the problem. If you don't find any indivdual cap reading bad, measure the plus and minus leads across the 2 capacitors (The + and - leads not connecting to chassis ground). I suggest this because if both transistors in a channel are shorted, it is possible that individual caps will read ok, but the short will show when going across bot (+55v and -55v short)
If you identify a problem there, then go to the channel being fed by the bad readings and remove the outputs, marking the positions of where each went. Check and see if the short is gone. If it is gone, remove the driver board for that channel if possible, and then try doing a dim bulb test. If the short is still there, then remove the 2 rectifier sets for that bad channel. Measure the rectifiers in ohms, as well as the caps. If the short still exists measuring across a cap, you may have a smaller disk cap shorted on the board, or highly unlikely a shorted filter cap.

If the 2 fuses that are blowing are F01 and F03, then the problem can be assumed on the left channel. If its F02 and F04, the issue is on the right channel. If the fuses that blow are an odd and even, then the issue is in both channels. Make sure as well that in the process of troubleshooting you didn't accidently remove an output transistor and forgot to install insulator, or damaged it. An easy way to tell is to use you multimeter and touch the collector (case) with one lead and the chassis ground with the other. If any show dead short, pull the transistor and examine the insulator
 
Hey all
Status update. We tested the diodes and found d9 was shorted. Also looks like cap c7 is bubbled. I have parts on order. We will replace the diode and the bad cap in the coming weeks. Just wondering your thoughts if d9 is the main culprit, or if their could be something up stream that caused d9 to fail.

Thanks again for everyone's help!
Ryon
 
Alright guys-
We ended up replacing all 8 diodes for both rectifiers (d5-12), and caps c9-12 and c5-8. Diode d9 was bad when tested on the board. Once we removed the remaining 3 diodes on that side, there was another that tested bad out of circuit, but unfortunately didn't mark them while removing so not sure which one it was. At this point I can power on the amp and it comes out of protect!!!! I still need to put it together, and connect the left and right boards. So we are thinking we are out of the woods since it kept blowing fuses before.

Ill let everyone know once the amp is 100% up and functional.

Thank you all again for being such a great community, and so willing to help me get my 717 back in operation!!
Ryon
 
Got everything back together. Right channel works, but left channel does not have any sound. I'm going to look thru some old threads with similar issues to help determine next t-shooting steps. I wonder if there is still an issue with the power board? Are both channel cards the same? Can I swap the connectors on f-2721 and f-2722 to see if the issue follows the L/R sound boards?
 
Good evening

Tonight we found one of the resistors r07 or r09 was open. I am getting these ordered along with other components that the glue has possibly affected. Will also take the time to clean and replace components on boards f-2721 and f-2722.

Will update everyone once replaced.

-Ryon
 
Are there any fuse resistors on the main power board? Like those baby blue resistors? Or are they R23,25 on both f2722 and f2721?

Just trying to make sure I have all components in need.
Thanks in advance!

-Ryon
 
Great news, after replacing the resistors (r07 and r09) the left channel works now! So I have a fully functional 717!!! Now going to preform glue removal / recap / component replacement on the left and right amp boards!

Thanks for everyone's help! I very much appreciate it!
Ryon
 
Good work. You probably want to ensure that all remaining fuse resistors (if any) are tested to ensure they are still within spec
 
Hey everyone!
We finished replacing caps, and components that were affected by the glue on F2721 and F2722. We were able to get the DC voltage set to 0 on both channels. However when trying to set the Bias, we are not getting any reading on either test point on F2721 or F2722 using a dummy 8hm load. It comes out of protect, and when connected to speakers I do get sound. Any ideas where to go from here?

FYI the fusistors on both channels tested with in spec, but were replaced anyways.

Thanks!
Ryon
 
Check voltages and compare to the SM in the amp stage. Might want to replace any small transistors that look suspect as well.
 
Yes, I did replace the fuse resistors, and pots on the amp boards. I found on another thread that with the pots I got need to be turned quite a bit before they start passing any voltage. Well, I got everything biased now! 0's at the speaker terminals, and 20's at the test points!

Next step is to deoxit the pots and switches.

Ill say this again, but everyone here has been a great help, along with my dad!!! I can now enjoy my 717!!!

Thanks!
Ryon
 
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