Discussion in 'Exclusively Sansui' started by 4-2-7, Apr 4, 2015.
Thanks, I've added them to the database.
I realized it's because I wasn't seeing signatures on the mobile website. My bad.
No worries. Having them posted all in the same place helps ensure I don't miss any. I may not see them if they are posted in a thread. I didn't see yours until today.
Wow-Got to love the internet when you can find a discussion thread on one style of 40+ yr old speakers. I guess I'm not the only one who enjoys the older ones. Anyhow, I have a question for the experts as I have a pair of SP-5000's that seem to "toggle" on and off the tweeters at low volume. Crank it up a few minutes to "hear it down the street with the doors closed" volume and the problem goes away. I tried spraying crossover switches inside the back of cabinet with electric contact cleaner and worked the knobs back and forth a lot, but still seems to not work right at low volume. Does this sound like a cap problem or do i need to get more agressive with the switch contact points? Thanks!
Have you done a recap? If not that's probably your problem, the capacitors in these are far past their lifespan and the tweeter caps could be near death and not wanting to pass signal until a large amount of power is shoved through them, mine came alive after recapping, I used polypropylene for the tweets and electrolytic for the mid and woofers, I have coral bx1500 woofers in mine currently though, I'm waiting to find an orphan 5000 woofer as the previous owner committed an atrocity and let a "repair" shop pull the fried one of the pair and they threw it away and installed a...goldwood....woofer back mounted because it was too wide literally mounted uneven with..drywall screws no bullshit, so that had to be changed
Thanks Roboneal -- I opened cabinet again to get info on caps and found that the problem was the little metal tab on the back side contactor for the tweeter adjustment switch was not making good contact with the rotating "rail" to maintain continuity. Tried gently bending the tab back down but couldn't get it to "stay down" so I actually gently bent the tab to make contact with the bottom of the "rail" which has the tweeters putting out sound now. I did go ahead and order the caps to replace (I didn't actually trace the wires through the caps to see which ones were for tweets/mids/woofer but I ordered polypropylene for the 2.2uF and 6.8uF and non-polar electrolytics for the 47uF and 22uF. Hopefully they will do the trick). These SP-5000 speakers sound really good to my ears now, but will be interested to see if sound is even better with fresh caps. Thanks again
OK Here is mine! I brought them back with me from Okinawa even though I was a private. I would love to get a copy of the owners manual as well as the cap values in the crossover so I can order a set before I take them apart. Also can I just remove the small plastic cover to do this or do I have to remove the back?
Hi, I'm looking for axial lead caps for the crossover but all I find are cans. Anyone know where to get axial lead types?
Thanks for the help from you guys. Quick follow-up to my prior posts. After changing all the caps on the SP-5000's they do sound much more open, clear and for lack of a better term "wider". I had to adjust the EQ settings for the highs down quite a bit and the speakers are very sensitive now to the smallest EQ adjustments. Details in music appear that were never there before (can even clearly hear mumbled song lyrics that I could never make out on other speaker systems for decades). Once EQ adjusted, the speakers play to volumes way beyond a reasonable listening level with no distortion to my budget conscious ears-- they just keep getting louder, deeper, etc....(yes- I realize these are in the lower budget end here and not trying to compare to high $ speakers at over 10 times the cost).
Additional note/warning -- I did rotate the woofer on one of the speakers 180 degrees based on other comments from other posts on vintage speakers (not sure if that really applies to these SP-5000s with the "cloth" surrounds or not), but I was not prepared for the sheer weight of the woofer. I did this with the cabinet in the normal upright position and had to catch it on the way out. Woofer must weigh over 25lbs so if I ever do this to the other speaker would definitely do with speaker "on its back". Folks who have posted about the lightweight "kabuki" woofers with tiny magnets must not have played around with these woofers.
Rotating definitely applies to cloth surrounds even more so, if I were you I would also rotate all the others including the tweeters, tweets aren't needed really but why not considering you're already flipping 8 other speakers and that woofer weighs closer to 35-40lbs by itself the originals are beastly, by the way, every 5000 owner should take heed to this next part, it would be good habit to pay very close attention to your larger mid-range speakers every now and again play them at a level you won't blow your ear drums out at and place your ear directly over the center of the cone and listen very carefully for crackling and distortion, one of my 6.5" mids had the solder contacts inside the cup going to the speaker and the ones from the leads begin to fail and I had to put in my coral bx1500 mids to fill the spot until I can get around to reforming the solder contacts, all these are quickly approaching 50 years old and albeit the Japanese workmanship is awesome everything has its lifespan before needing maitenence, if you're having this issue you may not notice right away because there are 14 speakers between a pair of them but it caused me to check my cap solder points and the wiring itself before I finally realized what the issue was when I popped the bucket off the mid and tested it in free air, if you're good with a soldering iron do it yourself if not don't attempt it because if you reset it in the wrong place the issue won't go away and you'll be in for even more work, just my little tidbit for all of us giant lovers
Thanks so much for the great detail. I love my old Sansui speakers and plan on getting some more ! I was just as interested in all the gear in the background what a collection Cheers
Hello all, this is my first post ever so please bear with me! I've been hunter/collector for about 6 years now and have been lurking on this site for most of that time. What an incredible wealth of information there is to be found here!
I decided to post after I started looking for some info on the SP-5000s and finding out that they are some pretty rare beats here in the mainland US. That is mostly why I went back to the Goodwill 2 weeks ago and decided to bring them home. They are pretty crusty but seem to be intact. Still trying to decide what I should do with them. I've included some pics. They are just as I found them, haven't even cleaned them up yet.
I guess you can add me to the short list of SP-5000 owners!
Well welcome to AK and my thread, glad it was some help to you. The woofers in your speakers are not original, however they look like the could be JBL and may not be a bad thing.
Please post the serial numbers for the database. Click on the link in my signature block.
I got the serial numbers but, being that I'm a complete newbie I'm not sure where exactly to post it. I found the database (I think) but I'm not sure how to post there. With a little guidance I'm sure I'll get there eventually.
Update. I took the backs off and took some nudies. 427 was right about the woofers not being original, but they are Radio Shack not JBL. The damage to the caps is something new to me. I've heard about them doing this but never seen it first hand. Still on the fence about what I want to do with them in the end but so far the experience has been a lot of fun.
The woofers are pretty hard to find and get. But the woofer in a cheap and abundant SP-5000A will work. Or if all is good just leave the RS
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