Scott 222C

I also have eight NOS 6P14P-EV + eight NOS 6P14P tubes in the mail.

I am curious about the Reflector 6P14P-EVs and will be waiting to hear your opinions on them. I almost ordered some last week from a seller with Mechanic777 in his ebay name but I never pulled the trigger.

The EV are said to be a much better tube than the straight 6P14P and they cost half again as much but are still quite cheap in comparison to US and Holland made NOS tubes.
 
I am curious about the Reflector 6P14P-EVs and will be waiting to hear your opinions on them. I almost ordered some last week from a seller with Mechanic777 in his ebay name but I never pulled the trigger.

The EV are said to be a much better tube than the straight 6P14P and they cost half again as much but are still quite cheap in comparison to US and Holland made NOS tubes.

All signs point to yes they work great and sound good :thmbsp:

Just buy em'
 
Amperex 6BL8 is defiantly one of my favorites, probably best of the bunch of
that particular pin-out tube that I have used, there are quite a few European
brands of the 6BL8, to me they do tend to be better sounding then the 6GH8.

That tube is not only the phase splitter here but the voltage amp as well, an
will make a pretty good impact on the sound of the amp.

To see how well they match in circuit, measure plate voltages of the pentode
section on each one, as that sets the bias for the triode section as well there.
(tube tester won't tell yu much, need to measure within amp an while running)
EDIT: I still use the tube tester first and weed out any truly bad ones though.

Well then, it's good to know I've started near the top with my tube rolling choices! Fingers are crossed that those Admiral tubes turn out to be French Amperex!! Would it make sense for me to install a pair of tip jacks for measuring the plate voltage for the tubes in that position?


I am curious about the Reflector 6P14P-EVs and will be waiting to hear your opinions on them. I almost ordered some last week from a seller with Mechanic777 in his ebay name but I never pulled the trigger.

The EV are said to be a much better tube than the straight 6P14P and they cost half again as much but are still quite cheap in comparison to US and Holland made NOS tubes.

I've already got a small stock of the Russians, but I figured I'd order more for doing some matching. The -EVs were up for one hour with two views, and were $CHEAP, so I pulled the trigger and BIN'd 'em, then I nabbed a set of the regular type because shipping was so cheap for extra items!

I've only ever bought those tubes from delax777mechanics on eBay--he's a breeze to deal with!


All signs point to yes they work great and sound good :thmbsp:

Just buy em'

:thmbsp:
 
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Honestly I've listened to the regular and EV's and I can't really tell a difference. I know the EV's will last longer though. Regardless what the data sheet says for the regular ones they behave just like a 7189 in my experience and handle the higher voltages just fine. If they wear out sooner...I only paid about $1.50/piece for the 100 I have.

I definitely give them the thumbs up :thmbsp:
 
Don't think I'd go as far installing tip jacks to measure plate voltage of VA/PI pentode.

What I do is gather up all my tubes I'd use in that position then get a pad of paper an
record the voltage of all the tubes and number them on the sheet an on the tube with
a sharpie, an listen for any weird noises as well. Then when you go to roll them in you
can match them up. (you'll probably find that voltage to be from 60-85v, depend wall)

If the voltage is quite a bit higher in a particular tube you know it's week an not much
current is being drawn so it doesn't pull that plate voltage down across that plate res.
 
Well shoot, the number of tubes that will work in place of the 6U8 position (phase inverter) is huge! I nabbed a sleeve of Raytheon Japan 6GH8A tubes, a pair of Amperex Holland Orange Globe 6BL8 tubes, and four Admiral France (+2 USA) E802CC tubes all for less than the price of my fave 12 pack!

Rolling around in this position definately has an effect. My ears are in love with the Amperex tubes right now, there's more dimesion than the Raytheons and are quieter than the black plate RCAs. The Admiral tubes are in the mail.

My ears are really loving these Amperex tubes! Sounding better the warmer they get!!

I also have eight NOS 6P14P-EV + eight NOS 6P14P tubes in the mail.

This is madness.

Ummmm don't waste those 6BL8's in a 6U8 slot. While they are pin compatible you will be over stressing those 6BL8's and they are much better served in a earlier Scott amp that can better use them. The 6BL8 is not interchangable into a 6U8 electrical enviorment....a 6U8 will live just fine in the 6BL8 slot. You will burn them up prematurely. But in the real world the best performer from a technical stand point will always be the tube that the slot was designd for unless of course changes are made to accomidate the tube "type" change.

***Edited***
 
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Haven't checked all the Scotts an how they ran them, but in the 222c a 6BL8 is just fine an loafing.
(I've gotten a 222 Scott in here with HH Scott branded 6BL8's in them as well, how I found the tube)
 
No you have not Kegger I've done 100's and 100's of 222C's and THEY NEVER CAME WITH A 6BL8 well unless someone placed it in there after the fact because of some poor advise from those arm chair technician types ;) You may be confusing the 222A and B. The 222C will indeed wear out a 6BL8 prematurely and IS ABSOLUTELY THE WRONG TUBE FOR THE AMP. The 222C always came equipped with a 6U8/6GH8 or a 7199... never a 6BL8.

The 299A and B came with a 6BL8 but anything beyond the B series amps switched to a 6U8A, 6GH8 or 7199 for good reason. Now tell me why the improper tube SHOULD ever be used in an amplifier (without modification) when the proper tube is readily available? It's just plain stupid.
 
You can assume all you want Craig, I have in fact gotten HH scott 6BL8's in a 222C.
(how they got there, from the factory or someone putting them there, guess away)

That's how I found out about those 6BL8's in the first place. (they came in an amp)

----------

As far as the tube dying prematurely I see nothing that would indicate such a thing.

Here are the in circuit measurement checks I made on an 222C while evaluating them.
(these are actual readings from an amp)

6GH8
Pentode section
Pv 60 (good strong tubes test this voltage, weaker tubes higher, I'd go as high as 75v)
sV 63
cV 1.67

Triode
Pv 272
Cv 66

--------------

6BL8
Pentode section
Pv 70 (good strong tubes test this voltage, weaker tubes higher, I'd go as high as 85v)
sV 63
cV 1.5

Triode
Pv 259
Cv 76

There is nothing on those readings that are anywhere near maximum for the 6BL8 tube.
(plate to cathode voltage on the triode is less than 200v even with a max of 250v)

So why would someone use one? Because it sounds better and should have no problem
in the circuit for a 222c so they should be viable swapping tubes if you like to roll them.
(obviously sound is in the ear of the beholder, "some" will prefer a good 6BL8 in there) ;)
 
My 222B came with all the original tubes ......

2 HH Scott ECF80/6BL8's which say Made in France

4 Telefunken 12AX7 and EL84
5AR4 which only says Made in Holland
 
My 222B came with all the original tubes ......

2 HH Scott ECF80/6BL8's which say Made in France

4 Telefunken 12AX7 and EL84
5AR4 which only says Made in Holland

Yup exactly what I said a 222A and B came equipped with a 6BL8 but never a 222C. But hey Scott engineers were just a bunch of morons and switched to a 6U8 because they found them in a yard sale for 10 cents a piece.... ***Edited by moderation staff***
 
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Moderation Note:

Be nice. I don't know why that's such a hard concept for some. If you cannot be civil when you disagree with another member(s) in the open forums, then go elsewhere. Also, comments on moderation (or the moderation staff) are not acceptable in the open forums. If you have a complaint concerning the staff here, contact the administration of the site privately. Additionally, offers to buy, sell, trade or give away are not allowed anywhere other than the classifieds or Barter Town.

Carry on.
 
Quick little update:

So I snagged an under-cover Mullard 7-notch 5AR4 (f32 code), as well as a set of four Mullard 6BL8 (bias checks out okay, they won't melt), so I've got two of those in the phase inverter, as well as a pair of Matsushita (Mullard Tooling) 12AX7 tubes up front, with the Russian 6P14P tubes doing the heavy lifting.

Sounds good :)
 
Nice to hear from you Fragger, the mullard 5AR4 are great tubes, got one for my
Scotts as well and some 6BL8 as well, there sure quiet. Having problems finding
6U8A's have to go thru a bunch to find quiet one's, so I got myself a Fisher
X100-B and I tell it sounds great and quiet no hum no noise!

Tube
 
Hi Fragger,

Did you install the speaker binding posts yet?

If so how about some pictures............

GREAT thread!
 
Phillip, Craig;

Based on what I can see in this photo...

2011-01-06-144220_POTS_sm.jpg

...it would appear that 10 ohm resistors have been added to the circuit as shown here (times two):

Schematic excerpt 10R fragger revised.JPG


Am I correct?
Brian
 
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The cathode resistors are the 4 small blue colored ones on the terminal strips. The two larger grey bodied resistors are reference to ground resistors for the new bias voltage pots. Kind of a cramped place to install the parts.
 
Hi, Craig;

But, is that where he installed the resistors?

Brian

I'm not making myself clear- I shouldn't have used his 'red circled' drawing. Forget the red circles! Focus on the four small resistors blue colored resistors directly below.
 
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Shouldn't the cathode resistors have been installed here, instead?:

Schematic excerpt 10R typical revised.JPG
 
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The resistors are correct as installed. I have no idea what more I can say. If you want to confirm check the resistance from each 7189 cathode (pin 3) to ground it should measure 10 Ohms. Both schematics are drawn improperly for complete bias balance and voltage testing/adjustment. This installation is kind of sloppy I'd never do it that way. I replace all the resistors on the socket and neatly reroute them. But it should work that way.
 
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