Scott 222C

Thanks guys :)

What do you think would be the best way to clean the chassis?

I'd like to drill out all the rivets and polish every little bit up (maybe clear lacquer it, too) as best as I can, and it seems easier to do it that way, then put in new pop rivets everywhere.

Thoughts?
 
If you go whole hog, taking everything off the transformers: I'd sand it with something like 220 grit, then the scour pad, then brasso. The brasso will polish it to a nice shine. Laquer might turn color under the heat, but it prolly depends on the kind.
 
Found some free time today after getting sick of staring at her thinking 'I should really start working on that' for the last week.

I plan on polishing up the chassis and getting rid of all that corrosion sitting on top. I'm still unsure about removing the sockets because that means I'd strip the chassis right now, and while I can interpret schematics just fine, I'm not sure that I know what order to put the parts back to make the assembly as trouble-free as possible.



The patient, in the operating room;
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Here's to hoping I have a good memory!
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I need to clean my workbench...
 
Nice shop man, are your sockets ok and of good quality? If so, just reflow all the joints. He, I said joints.:smoke:
 
I would advise against putting lacquer or polyurethane on the chassis. :no: The aluminum will look fine when you polish it up and will stay that way for a long time.
 
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Man, I remember those days!!!!! Now that I have mine up and running, all the work you are about to enter into is very much worth it, what a lovely piece of audio history!!!!
 
Alright, so I'm getting my parts orders ready to go and I've one question; it's only the 75/75/75/75 cap that's positive-common, and other two multisection caps are negative common, right?


Nice shop man, are your sockets ok and of good quality? If so, just reflow all the joints. He, I said joints.:smoke:

Thanks! It's more like my old homework desk from grade school (build from hacked IKEA!) that's been shoved into a corner in the unfinished side of the basement, but my gear calls it home :)

I have some NOS, Made in USA socket inserts (don't have a set of clamps for 'em so I can't use 'em otherwise) so I was thinking of swapping out all the old 9-pin socket inserts for these NOS ones I have. :scratch2:
 
Orders placed and paid for Digikey and AES. Less than a week's pay in total for three projects' worth of parts--I think that's a fair investment! :)

And now the waiting game...
 
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That's the way I feel. I'll tend to do SS AND tube stuff together and can't get it all from either Parts Express AND AES. So I wind up paying freight on both places. Aarrgh!

Although, I have been buying EL84M's for my 222C's from Tube Depot. They seem to know how to get an order out the door promptly, too. :yes:
 
Bought 6P14P-EV tubes from eBay and my AES order came today!

Nabbed some new tips for my iron and I plan on getting everything together for this evening's marathon ;)
 
In both the 222C's I have restored I have only done the 4x 20 ohm routine because it was most similar to the 18 ohm resistors that were already there (although I wish I had remembered to use 2 watters on the second amp instead of 1 watters which get almost too physically hot for comfort). With this method, at least the last time I checked, I had exactly 48 volts feeding the string of filaments of the 4x 12 volt pre-amp tubes.

While running the 12AX7 at -48V/12V each on the heaters will not harm them it is not how Scott ran them. More like -44/11V each. It does change the character of the sound and the gain of the 12AX7's...
 
While running the 12AX7 at -48V/12V each on the heaters will not harm them it is not how Scott ran them. More like -44/11V each. It does change the character of the sound and the gain of the 12AX7's...

Very interesting information, thanks for that comment. I've read a lot comments about how satisfied your customers are with their Scott 222c integrateds :thmbsp:

Any more tips for me, Craig? :scratch2:


Philip.


P.S. Where are the coupling caps in this amp? I've read that Russian PIO caps are best in the coupling position, but I'm dreadfully unfamilliar with tube amp topologies :(
 
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What I done got up to today :)



First step, before
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After
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Polished on the left, natural state on the right
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Next step
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Back to the bench!
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Starting the recap
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Getting as many photos as I can for ya, Micah :thmbsp:
 
--snip--Any more tips for me, Craig? :scratch2:


Philip.
(

1) I thought you said you just got new tips!

:D

2) I don't how you can stand having that amp apart for so long. My memory's not that long. :no:

3) And, thanks Craig! :thmbsp:
 
1) I thought you said you just got new tips!

:D

2) I don't how you can stand having that amp apart for so long. My memory's not that long. :no:

3) And, thanks Craig! :thmbsp:

A: ahahaaa, yea, they big flat tip is a DREAM to use working on this amp!

II. I took lots and lots of photos of everything :thmbsp:
 
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