Hmmmm this is a bit to modern but it will teach you precision ( due to smaller componentss ) most of the main board bits are surface mount..
The front panel is a keeper to you can remove small switches, pots, etc. remove the plastic bits off the front...
The will also be a great model for how much heat will it take to lift a trace...
NOW... if the solder doesn't melt straight away ( under 5 seconds ) it could be silver solder which will be USELESS on teaching you the skills you need.
On the pump the " trick" get the sucker nozzle right over the area.. roll the tip of iron out of the way and JAM the tip of the sucker and trigger on there as QUICK as possible 1 second is to long and the solder will cool.. the more heat , the more time you have to pull the trigger in milliseconds...Now that being said might want to try your 30 watt iron ( just to get a sense of the difference ). More heat , solder will stay molten a tad longer...If the tip of your old weller won't take a tin take a small file and make a new point..
The melted tip. for the sucker. that's normal.. It's got a LOT of suction ( depending on what you got ) The whole idea is to experiment … use the Weller …pull the trigger… burn a trace or 3… get a FEEL of what it takes…
Yeah there's a whole ZEN to soldering.
I think MAYBE the car stereo is to new for you to train on.. maybe a 70's clock radio.
Does the solder melt within a second or two on the radio? It might be silver solder which you will need a LOT more heat … like 450C !
COOL glad your back "UP"...
1) Are you SURE your speakers are in Phase?
2) If yes to one, the filter caps will REALLY help... made a WORLD of difference in a AU-6600 I recently did.
I assume you set Bias & DC offset??