Thanks Lavane!Very nice layout. I have a small spud amp under construction. One tube that can be used puts out 1.2 watts. I'm going for the big 5.5 watt version. That's the nicest DG-1 I've seen yet. Congrats!
Old posting answer I know, but this is a really clever design! the designer had to choose tubes with the same heater current series rating, yet have enough flexibility to work as a power amp with drivers.May as well post my Bolide project here:
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The Bolide low-voltage SET breadboard develops about 1.5W output using $4 worth of tubes from the dollar bin at ESRC, and a $12 OPT, operating on a 96V B+ rail that comes from a pair of low-cost 48V switch-mode power supply modules. It sounds good, but I haven't convinced myself that it's worth committing to a complete chassis build. I'll attach the amplifier schematic below. Whaddya think? Is there any interest in low-voltage flea power designs like this?
Very nice! Unlike the chassis plate. I built one of these. I've been very happy with it. What did you bias your output tubes at?Tubelab SE300B putting out about 7 watts.
Very nice! Unlike the chassis plate. I built one of these. I've been very happy with it. What did you bias your output tubes at?
That's what everyone says, me included. They are very quiet. I have mine biased at 60ma. Other than mine, yours is the only other one with a base that tall that I've seen. Nice looking amp!Running them at 65mA with a B+ at about 380V if I recall. It is whisper quiet even through my 96dB bookshelves but add a source and it drives my less efficient Genesis II+ (88.5dB efficiency) really well.
That's what everyone says, me included. They are very quiet. I have mine biased at 60ma. Other than mine, yours is the only other one with a base that tall that I've seen. Nice looking amp!
My original intention was to use a conventional power supply circuit for the low-current -96V rail. I never did build that amp design into a chassis, so I don't have a final power supply circuit design to show. The breadboard was always operated from benchtop PSUs.Old posting answer I know, but this is a really clever design! the designer had to choose tubes with the same heater current series rating, yet have enough flexibility to work as a power amp with drivers.
One question though, if it runs from +/- 96v, don't you need four +48v SMPS's?
That's one of the reasons I built the base so deep. I also have vents on the sides near the top. I used a huge TO-220 heatsink for the double regulator mounting it to the top plate off the board. My Avatar is the one I built. Yours is the nicest I've seen yet. The wooden knobs are a nice touch.Thanks.
I run a fan underneath, it's designed for cooling PS4's I think but it sits on rubber feet and runs so quietly I need to put my ear to the base of the amp to see if it is on. The airflow helps keep the whole thing cool as they do have a tendency to run hot especially the mosfets.
That's one of the reasons I built the base so deep. I also have vents on the sides near the top. I used a huge TO-220 heatsink for the double regulator mounting it to the top plate off the board. My Avatar is the one I built. Yours is the nicest I've seen yet. The wooden knobs are a nice touch.
Yup. I've built a lot of custom home installed book shelves and wall units using Oak and some walnut. They are hard woods. I've dulled a few saw and planer blades. My favorite is having to drill holes for finishing nails. I wimped out and used Maple.Friend of mine made the box and the knobs from walnut. He also made the plinth for the TT from plyboo; he cursed me for weeks after That stuff is tough to work!! Apparently .
Ooh, very nice!! I've always been intrigued by that one and would like to hear it someday. SE EL84 is a magical thing!Recently acquired Vaughn Audio Carina 1.5 watt EL84 SET (or U/L).