Discussion in 'Exclusively Sansui' started by kevzep, Jul 29, 2016.
Hahaha, yes well that's pretty much how it rolls sometimes........
Ahem. Don't make me have Gibson ban you from the Mc forum!!
Carry on ...
Well, best you go and tell on me then.....Because you know, I'm pretty much done over there....
That would be a loss not to have ya' brother!
Well, actually I have to do a bit of work to my C33 and 2205, I was thinking of starting a thread, so it might not be over just yet, we'll see how it goes once I get started...
The last ten comments brought to you courtesy of the itty bitty contact switch and toggle company who 40 years later are now known for their Deoxit products lol.
Nice work there. Mine runs almost every day and it beats all other stuff I have. But I still have to compare it to my Yamaha B1 when that finally returns. Just like Hyperion I have to find time to finish it completely. I still have to put the restored phono boards in, but that means I have to unplug it .
However it should get warm especially the phono boards which run in Class A. Did you already test the stability of the amp?
Well, after reading your restoration thread, mine is fairly lightweight compared to what you did......However, the unit it functioning well and I am very happy with the way it turned out.
I was about to do some stability testing when I discovered the square wave function has stopped working on my generator.
As soon as I have this resolved I will do some testing.
I noticed a Hitachi epoxy covered reed relay back several posts. I presume it's a headphone relay in this unit.
IME, they are proving to be unreliable little buggers as time marches on. The green epoxy coating stuff eats into the copper windings around the two encased glass reeds. Much mid to late 80s Japanese gear had them inside. Just a heads up.
What would be a good replacement for those green reed relays?
I've wound my own a few times (taped two reeds together and spun the pair in a drill chuck while winding copper wire from a 'donor' relay). You need a working one to measure first for resistance before you start however.
You can get SPST 12v reed relays for cheap and run two in series to give you a 24v DPST relay. Often, those green blob relays are used where extremely low level signals are (in MC/MM switching etc) being switched and normal relays either have to much contact resistance, deteriorate, or add crosstalk.
If the little buggers are just headphone relays, you can use pretty much anything and get away with it.
IIRC, the L24 means it is a 24v relay- I'm not sure how many other voltages Hitachi made in those nasty little things. Lots of Hitachi cassette decks used them as tape monitor relays and Akai used them inside preamps/cassette decks etc. Marantz used them as headphone relays in the better gear in the 80s.
Personally I would use one of the Omron G5V replacement types already used on the Phono mother board, you'd have to wire them up the same, and they wouldn't look great, but it would work. I have never seen replacement relays with the same package as the original green ones, but that doesn't mean they don't exist. (NB: also used in the AU-919 and probably others).
It is the headphone relay, just looked it up, yeah might not be a bad idea to replace that.
You could pretty much use anything that will fit.
I have a couple of little issues to attend to on the mother board that the Phono board plug into, I have to remove it, I think there is a cold solder joint or a crack in a track somewhere as we are having a few intermittent issues that relate to that board....
Might as well see what I can do for a relay for the headphones while I am at it....
Check US Relay manufacturer Struthers-Dunn: RR2A-24VDC, MRR, RR Series - Axial Lead, Shielded Reed Relays
Providing the spec's are able to emulate some of the Hitachi L24's quality's - this could be a possible(?) replacement - providing you are able to source them!
Link to datasheet: RR/MRR Series
Wow - good find - providing "Universal Electronic Supply Co" (based in the US) will allow you to buy in singles (one's and two's) - they would work nicely I think. (Rhodium plated contacts )
Definitely need to get the MRR version (1" long) the RR version (1.54" long) is too big I think.
yeah same as what McIntosh use for all their input/output switching....in the newer models
Yes, very good find on the link posted above.
One to bookmark..
So in the middle of finishing up this job, I moved my Lab, so then once that was set up I could carry on with the X1.
So I fired it up, and one channel had dropped out, and the protection circuit was playing up and acting the fool.
It turned out to be just a couple of dry solder joints, but they evaded me for a while, and not before I had taken the back off to check speaker relay operation....took the front off again to access the board with the speaker selection switch on, then discovered the power switch had a faulty element.....
I was chasing this nonsense around for a good 6 hours.....
Anyway. I started the amp up this morning and ran it all day streaming a good radio station and it ran faultlessly, at times I had it cranked right up....
So a couple of hours ago, I decided to put its pants on.....Its scrubbed up quite well...I am very pleased with it...
Damn thing sounds insane!! I love it!!
A few pics of the X1 tidy up in the new Lab.....I have some more test gear on the way, I am starting Tuner alignments, so I have a multiplex generator, sweep generator with markers arriving any time now, already got the RF generator...yes I am entering the voodoo world of tuners, I've always had an interest in tuners and I have extended my knowledge and I am going to put it to good use....
There you go a piece of cake for someone with your experience. It looks beautiful, nice and clean Kev, "scrubbed up well"
I am pleased you think so well of how it sounds, your opinion means a lot, mine adds a depth to the music like nothing else I have.
And tuner alignment! - now you have yourself a tiger by the tail - but I am sure you will master it.
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