So here's the total and the end result

tubeboob

Super Member
Well, after having it and running it for over a year, I finally decided to give it an overhaul.

What, you ask?

Well my first vintage piece, a Fisher 400 receiver.

Here's the scoop:

Picked it up for $15.00 at an Estate Sale. The asking price was $20.00 but we settled on $15.00.

Took me serious hours just to clean it up, but then it looked so good.

Then a poor mans variac over the course of hours, and yes, the amplifier section sounded great, but the tuner did not.

Once running, it sounded, for want of a better word, splendid.

Always worried about the selenium rectifier, but it sounded so good, it must be ok.

Picked up aftermarket brass covers for the knobs, $20.00.

Picked up a wooden case, $110.00.

Decided on a service, especially for the selenium rectifier, $220.00.

Grand total, $365.00, and this is a piece of audio I will keep for many more years to come.

The listening, after rebuild/updating, is great.

Voices are clearer now, no veiling at all. Highs are cleaner, and imaging has definitely improved. Bass is a bit tighter, that is just as forceful, just now with better control.

I have read that these vintage Fisher pieces are "old" technology, but that characterization couldn't be further from the truth. With a decent CD player and decent speakers, the music is, well, musical. Audiophile for sure. Clean, crisp and well defined.

I will do an in depth review of this 400 later, I need to absorb some more of it yet.

New tube pieces, like small output amps, are no match for the sheer musicality of an updated Fisher amplifier.

Was it worth the time and expense? Absolutely!:thmbsp:

Just for the record, I have a Cayin A-100T integrated (the best that I have so far), another Fisher 400, two Fisher X-202b's, a Lafayette LA224 integrated, a Scott 299A and various other tube pieces. I'm hooked.

I look forward to my time with my music.

Cheers
 
Tubeboob - first of all, congratulations on restoring this fine Fisher. My question is: What is a poor man's Variac? I've thought of the benefits of maybe having one of these pieces but they cost a whole lot. If there's an effective way to accomplish that more cheaply I'd be grateful to know. Thanks.

Ben
 
A poor man's variac is when you connect a vintage piece of electronics to an extension cord, but before you do, you place a light bulb socket with light bulb in series.

Start out with at least a 100w bulb, leave it on for at least 3 hours, then switch off, let cool for at least half an hour, then put in a 75w bulb, and let that run for at least 2 to 3 hours.

Then a 60w

Then a 40w

Then a 25w

Then a 15w

Then directly into an outlet.

Poor mans variac because it does not cost an arm and a leg to get.

Nonetheless, you ca get a decent variac on the bay for around $50.00.

I did, and now I switch on using it all the time, as I want to limit the volts to 110.

Cheers:thmbsp:
 
A poor man's variac is when you connect a vintage piece of electronics to an extension cord, but before you do, you place a light bulb socket with light bulb in series.

Start out with at least a 100w bulb, leave it on for at least 3 hours, then switch off, let cool for at least half an hour, then put in a 75w bulb, and let that run for at least 2 to 3 hours.

Then a 60w

Then a 40w

Then a 25w

Then a 15w

Then directly into an outlet.

Poor mans variac because it does not cost an arm and a leg to get.

Nonetheless, you ca get a decent variac on the bay for around $50.00.

I did, and now I switch on using it all the time, as I want to limit the volts to 110.

Cheers:thmbsp:

Did you think of this or did someone tell you? Sounds to me, unless this is common, you invented something. Or gave away the secret to an invention...
 
Start out with at least a 100w bulb, leave it on for at least 3 hours, then switch off, let cool for at least half an hour, then put in a 75w bulb, and let that run for at least 2 to 3 hours.

Then a 60w

Then a 40w

Then a 25w

Then a 15w

Then directly into an outlet.

Backwards on the lamp wattage. You start with a low wattage bulb and move up. The more resistance you put in series with your unit, the more the current is limited.

15 watts = 960 ohms
25 watts = 576 ohms
40 watts = 360 ohms
60 watts = 240 ohms
100 watts = 144 ohms

Commonly called a dim bulb tester around here. You can built it in a 4x4 junction box with a cover for two duplex outlets. Use three outlets and a switch (one duplex outlet and one outlet/switch combo). One outlet is always full voltage, one is for the lamp and one is for the unit you want to limit current to. When you flip the switch, it shorts the lamp and promotes the unit under test to full current. That way, you don't have to to swap the plug around while you are working.

Besides giving units a slow start to let caps form, it's a great way to test a unit that is blowing its fuse. Instead of blowing the fuse, the lamp lights up bright.
 
Did you do the restoration on your 400? I have a 400 and a 500C that I need to rebuild sometime. Both have been sitting neglected for over a year, while I work on other projects that are intended to make funds to restore the Fishers. But said projects end up staying in the system. :D At least I have a restored 800C to enjoy in the meantime.

And yes, let's see some pics of the 400!
 
Backwards on the lamp wattage. You start with a low wattage bulb and move up. The more resistance you put in series with your unit, the more the current is limited.

15 watts = 960 ohms
25 watts = 576 ohms
40 watts = 360 ohms
60 watts = 240 ohms
100 watts = 144 ohms

Commonly called a dim bulb tester around here. You can built it in a 4x4 junction box with a cover for two duplex outlets. Use three outlets and a switch (one duplex outlet and one outlet/switch combo). One outlet is always full voltage, one is for the lamp and one is for the unit you want to limit current to. When you flip the switch, it shorts the lamp and promotes the unit under test to full current. That way, you don't have to to swap the plug around while you are working.

Besides giving units a slow start to let caps form, it's a great way to test a unit that is blowing its fuse. Instead of blowing the fuse, the lamp lights up bright.

amphead. Can you show us a picture of yours along with a schematic? I just can't picture how you did yours. Mine is a switch, thru a ceramic light socket to a duplex outlet. How do you switch from limited to full voltage on it without moving the plug in the outlets.

Larry
 
amphead. Can you show us a picture of yours along with a schematic? I just can't picture how you did yours. Mine is a switch, thru a ceramic light socket to a duplex outlet. How do you switch from limited to full voltage on it without moving the plug in the outlets.

Larry

I don't have a ready schematic - it's in my head. Quickest thing is to give a link to a better description. Take a look at this and let me know if it gets the idea across.


http://www.fenderforum.com/forum.html?db=&topic_number=586602&offset=9
 
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Firby: The one I have is one I built when I was 14 (55 now). I couldn't picture ampheads particular build and asked him about it.

amphead. drew it out. Ingenious!!! It's definately getting built. I like the idea of the switch switching between current limiting and full current WITHOUT having to unplug the gear being tested.

Larry
 
amphead. drew it out. Ingenious!!! It's definately getting built. I like the idea of the switch switching between current limiting and full current WITHOUT having to unplug the gear being tested.

Larry

I can't take credit for it. I read about it in one of Gerald Weber's books, although I don't think his had three outlets. I just added the one that's always a direct connection to give me one more outlet on the bench.

Actually, I need to make another one. I brought the last one into work and it looks like I'm not getting it back.

My apologies to the OP for taking this thing so far off topic.
 
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