Iirc, it's a 212.I don't remember the size of the custom battery packs that also served as board supports, I do remember it was the replacements that took a caustic dump on the power board.
It was cute and useful while it lasted, I'm not fooling with another battery replacement.
you will first need dummy loads to handle that. probably 2 x 8 ohms 250w or greater in parallel. Then a signal source.. easy to find and download from the web that runs on your pc or phone. then your scope. The scope you have has a high enough range so you can connect directly. You will be able to see the clipping on the scope but probably more accurate to measure Vrms on the voltmeter just before clipping. Remember that clipping voltage is peak.. and you measure power as Vrms^2/R where Vrms= Vpeak/Sqroot(2)I want to be able to measure watts per channel and wondered if someone could list out what I needed to complete this task. Ranges of amplifiers are 250 to 550 wpc @ 4 ohms
I have a fluke 192 2 channel scope to start.
Thanks for any suggestions.
Reading glasses of various distances and powers from Dollar Store type outlets.Back to the head magnifier - seems like a great thing to have, but I'm surprised there wasn't more discussion or recommendations on specific models. Are they not that useful or is there a better solution?
Reading glasses of various distances and powers from Dollar Store type outlets.
Back to the head magnifier - seems like a great thing to have, but I'm surprised there wasn't more discussion or recommendations on specific models. Are they not that useful or is there a better solution?
Good information and a lot of tools to choose.Got some downtime while waiting for some parts, and since I had made this list for a friend after giving it all a lot of thought, I figured that I might share with you my findings...
In general, the focus here was to get the best bang for the buck. There are more expensive options, and less expensive options, but I wanted a good balance while keeping a close eye on the total expenditure.
The raw list consists of (and I will go into detail for each in the next section):
1. Oscilloscope
2. Audio Signal Generator (10Hz~100KHz)
3. Solder station or solder iron
4. Digital Multimeter(s) and minigrabber leads
5. Dummy Loads
6. Dim-Bulb tester
7. Digital Caliper
8. Solder
9. Solder Paste
10. Solder Wick
11. Solder Sucker
12. 170 Side Cutters
13. Hand Drill & small bit assortment
14. Machinists Scribe
15. Bondhus Metric and Standard Ball-End Allen Wrench Set
16. Helping Hands
17. Assorted Hand Tools (#1 & #2 Philips, pliers, wire strippers, etc.)
.
Thanks, that's what I been rigging up. How much past the resistor spec wattage can they be driven? 10% 20%
thanks again!
When you check for isolation with the DMM what would a person see if it was not grounded? I did get a small tickle when I had this one apart while turning up the volume just a tad...or at least I thought I was getting a small shock as the volume shaft touched the face-place because with the knobs off it rested on there. Mind you all pieces of the face-plate were separated from the frame!Stereos are isolated from both the line and earth ground when plugged into the wall. so you can hook your scope probe ground to its chassis. the stereo uses the chassis as its ground. you can hook a stereo chassis up to earth ground if you wish. if using the scope ground you are now earth grounding the stereo chassis. You isolate a scope when hooking it up to something that is not isolated from the line. In doubt always use a differential probe that can handle the line V. A isolation transformer will isolate the scope ground from earth ground.
Sometimes you get a bit of a tingle when you touch some stereos, that it its leakage currents which can be measured as shown in some kenwood service manuals.
You can check isolation by using a DMM to measure ohms from chassis ground to each AC plug pin.