My IBM-branded Fluke 8060A/AA had the same problem, and the same fix.
So You Want To Repair Audio gear, Eh? Here's the tools you need...
- Thread starter EchoWars
- Start date
My IBM-branded Fluke 8060A/AA had the same problem, and the same fix.
AudioJoe413
Active Member
Hi guys, I was wondering if this would be a good scope to start with? bear in mind I know nothing about them what so ever except for the fact that they come in handy once I get my feet wet.
Tektronics 531A Oscilloscope with 53/54 and CA Plug-ins.
I can pick this up for $100.
Opinions?
Tektronics 531A Oscilloscope with 53/54 and CA Plug-ins.
I can pick this up for $100.
Opinions?
Kingfisher
Well-Known Member
I didn't see anybody recommend a digital camera as a tool for repairing audio gear. They are necessary for asking questions here at AK. They also work for "before and after" comparisons of your work. I would also recommend a notebook and a pencil for taking notes.
kenvirginia
Member
Hello all.
EW, you recommended the Fluke 114 or 115 DMMs when you started this thread a while back.
Are they still your First choice? If not, what is now.
If they are; what's your FIRST choice?
-Kenny
EW, you recommended the Fluke 114 or 115 DMMs when you started this thread a while back.
Are they still your First choice? If not, what is now.
If they are; what's your FIRST choice?
-Kenny
I chose the items in the original list with an eye towards cost. If the price is not a major consideration, I'd look at the Fluke 117 (there are others even more expensive, but the specialty functions they offer are not likely to be to useful in electronics repair).
kenvirginia
Member
OK, EW,...Fluke 117 it is.
I like to get better quality tools...that last, are reliable & accurate.
'Dissapointing that they are no longer made in USA. Too bad.
Those Hakko soldering irons you recommended are no longer available...There are new models now. Still Hakko? Dial or digital?
-K
I like to get better quality tools...that last, are reliable & accurate.
'Dissapointing that they are no longer made in USA. Too bad.
Those Hakko soldering irons you recommended are no longer available...There are new models now. Still Hakko? Dial or digital?
-K
Yeah, Hakko replaced the 936 with the Fisher-Price-looking FX-888 (analog) and FX-951 (digital). Aside from the color scheme, Hakko has a reputation for building quality gear, and I'm sure these newer units continue that tradition.
There's other decent units out there, but I haven't followed the market and I'm out of the loop at this point.
:
Jon_Logan
Addicted Member
I don't buy that.
jimmyboy1932
Active Member
Wow! This is some great info!
I don't know if this has been covered or not yet, and I wasn't about to read through eight pages to find out.
There was no mention of a heatsink, used when soldering the delicate leads of transistors, diodes and other delicate solid-state devices. If your wife or girlfriend (or husband or boyfriend, no reason why women can't repair this stuff) works in healthcare, see if they can snag a pair of forceps. These work great with their self-clamping, leaving your other hands free for the soldering iron and solder. Failing that, Parts Express sells them.
Another choice of soldering iron is Antex, especially for people living the the UK or Europe. I much prefer these to Weller irons, but you pays your money and takes your choice.
Lee.
There was no mention of a heatsink, used when soldering the delicate leads of transistors, diodes and other delicate solid-state devices. If your wife or girlfriend (or husband or boyfriend, no reason why women can't repair this stuff) works in healthcare, see if they can snag a pair of forceps. These work great with their self-clamping, leaving your other hands free for the soldering iron and solder. Failing that, Parts Express sells them.
Another choice of soldering iron is Antex, especially for people living the the UK or Europe. I much prefer these to Weller irons, but you pays your money and takes your choice.
Lee.
chuck61
Member
Heat Sink Thermal Material
I have assembled a few personal computers and I am wondering if the CPU thermal compounds are good for heat sinks found in audio circuits? The 'High Performance' computer enthusiast has created a demand for the development/marketing of very efficient thermal interface materials, would these properties be advantages in audio repair/upgrade?
good- http://www.antec.com/product.php?Per=19
better- http://www.tuniq.com.tw/accessories/tx3.html
exotic- http://www.enerdynesolutions.com/prod_indigo.html
I have assembled a few personal computers and I am wondering if the CPU thermal compounds are good for heat sinks found in audio circuits? The 'High Performance' computer enthusiast has created a demand for the development/marketing of very efficient thermal interface materials, would these properties be advantages in audio repair/upgrade?
good- http://www.antec.com/product.php?Per=19
better- http://www.tuniq.com.tw/accessories/tx3.html
exotic- http://www.enerdynesolutions.com/prod_indigo.html
Regarding thermal compound for audio amplifier applications.
Note that NO product was shown in the first link - so I'm still in the dark about it's properties.
Note the 3rd link = "exotic" in your post above links to a CONDUCTIVE heatsink compound !
It might be best at transferring heat, but the electrically conductive quality is an absolute killer for audio amplifier applications - DO NOT use it. It is simply not necessary to resort to the high performance compounds used in PC's.
I use the common or garden "white stuff" it is guaranteed non-conductive and is perfectly adequate for audio amplifier purposes.
Note that NO product was shown in the first link - so I'm still in the dark about it's properties.
Note the 3rd link = "exotic" in your post above links to a CONDUCTIVE heatsink compound !
It might be best at transferring heat, but the electrically conductive quality is an absolute killer for audio amplifier applications - DO NOT use it. It is simply not necessary to resort to the high performance compounds used in PC's.
I use the common or garden "white stuff" it is guaranteed non-conductive and is perfectly adequate for audio amplifier purposes.
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No...the requirements for audio are much less demanding. Heat density is orders-of-magnitude lower in audio gear than in computer gear, so the typically thick compounds used for computer gear are damn near impossible to spread thinly for proper use resulting in worse performance than plain white silicone heatsink compound, and the overall lower temps in audio gear mean that the compounds don't have a chance to thin themselves out (in computers, spring tension means that these compounds can flow and settle properly as they warm up).
Also, much of the computer stuff is electrically conductive. :nono:
chuck61
Member
Thermal Grease info
Thanks guys for the info-I am glad I asked-and glad to hear it, as these products are quite expensive per application. Sorry about the first link-the 'Antec' site had no conductivity info on their products. Some PC CPU TIM products claim to be electrically non-conductive, but if they are engineered to operate in a different temp range-no advantage/potentially catastrophic.
Thanks again-Chuck
Thanks guys for the info-I am glad I asked-and glad to hear it, as these products are quite expensive per application. Sorry about the first link-the 'Antec' site had no conductivity info on their products. Some PC CPU TIM products claim to be electrically non-conductive, but if they are engineered to operate in a different temp range-no advantage/potentially catastrophic.
Thanks again-Chuck
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Good thread! I might have missed these in previous posts but they're good to collect as you come across them:
Assortment of heat shrink tubing
Hot air gun to shrink said tubing
X-Acto knife #1- standard #11 blade in small holder
X-Acto knife #2- heavy angled blade in large holder
X-Acto knife #3- square scraper blade in large holder (hone for no burrs)
Pot adjustment tool
tweezers
IC puller
Large "Soldapullit" sucker (the small ones are useless)
Solder wick
Nut driver set
Sharp Ideal wire strippers in large and small sizes
Freeze mist
Teflon grease
Oil (Break-free or other good GP syn)
Loctite
Tapes- electrical, mylar, polyimide and glass transformer tape
Glue- Pliobond
Ground wrist strap and mat
Parts cabinet stocked with common resistors and caps
It's a good idea to take an hour every month or two and make cables. Banana, BNC and whatever cables you need to interconnect test equipment and make your life easier. It's hard enough to deal with equipment problems, no reason to add your test equipment connections to the mix!
I'm a test equipment addict. An interesting thing is that when you're starting out there are all sorts of things you can't afford but are sure would make your life easier. Oddly, by the time you accumulate them, you will have learned how to solve most problems without resorting to fancy equipment.
FWIW, the piece of equipment I use the most is my old Fluke 77 handheld that I bought new way back when it first came out.
Assortment of heat shrink tubing
Hot air gun to shrink said tubing
X-Acto knife #1- standard #11 blade in small holder
X-Acto knife #2- heavy angled blade in large holder
X-Acto knife #3- square scraper blade in large holder (hone for no burrs)
Pot adjustment tool
tweezers
IC puller
Large "Soldapullit" sucker (the small ones are useless)
Solder wick
Nut driver set
Sharp Ideal wire strippers in large and small sizes
Freeze mist
Teflon grease
Oil (Break-free or other good GP syn)
Loctite
Tapes- electrical, mylar, polyimide and glass transformer tape
Glue- Pliobond
Ground wrist strap and mat
Parts cabinet stocked with common resistors and caps
It's a good idea to take an hour every month or two and make cables. Banana, BNC and whatever cables you need to interconnect test equipment and make your life easier. It's hard enough to deal with equipment problems, no reason to add your test equipment connections to the mix!
I'm a test equipment addict. An interesting thing is that when you're starting out there are all sorts of things you can't afford but are sure would make your life easier. Oddly, by the time you accumulate them, you will have learned how to solve most problems without resorting to fancy equipment.
FWIW, the piece of equipment I use the most is my old Fluke 77 handheld that I bought new way back when it first came out.
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