Solder Kit?

No such thing as not removable ... get a bigger hammer! <G>

Most any similar relay just has the clear top press fit on, and you can usually pry them off with a thin blade if you're careful.

** Notice the highlighted words in that last statement. Proceed at your own risk. I would at least find out if replacements are available before proceeding.

Yeah maybe a spudger, the kind that removes phone screens and such, (would need one with a right angle to it as well, cause it's tight in there!) Not tryin' to end up with a (completely) broken receiver over here, and I have learned a lesson: If you're test driving a receiver at the pickup location, listen to it for a half hour minimum at ALL volume levels. The seller had the volume way up the whole time I was there o_O. I get the feelin' he knew sumthin I didn't... Just sayin'.
 
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Yup ... I seldom run my MC2205 over maybe 6-7 on the dial. Rule of thumb is not to exceed 80% max setting so as to leave plenty of headroom for instantaneous demands ...
 
No such thing as not removable ... get a bigger hammer! <G>

Most any similar relay just has the clear top press fit on, and you can usually pry them off with a thin blade if you're careful.

** Notice the highlighted words in that last statement. Proceed at your own risk. I would at least find out if replacements are available before proceeding.

Got off the phone with Binghamton just now, and the relays are still avails for 10 bucks apiece... but first let me see if I can break these trying to take off the covers, before I drop the 40 bones. :rflmao:
 
Ain't no fun if you don't at least try ... ;-}

Once you get in there, a bit of D5 on a slice of index card is a great cleaner. Slip the card between the contact points and work it back and forth a few times to break the glaze. Careful as they can be delicate, and the contact coatings are mighty thin, and you don't want to f'up the spring tension.
 
Ain't no fun if you don't at least try ... ;-}

Once you get in there, a bit of D5 on a slice of index card is a great cleaner. Slip the card between the contact points and work it back and forth a few times to break the glaze. Careful as they can be delicate, and the contact coatings are mighty thin, and you don't want to f'up the spring tension.

They ain't budgin', even with major spudgin'... George Meyer said they'd switch 'em out (relays provided by me) at $125/hr labor, or I can for $50 total, oem parts and shippin' from Binghamton.
 
Q? how do you know they are bad and not the typical relay circuit that the cap and transistor can't keep contacts closed? Can you see pitted contact thru that plastic? could drill a spy hole and tape it over?? duhhhh. :D
 
Q? how do you know they are bad and not the typical relay circuit that the cap and transistor can't keep contacts closed? Can you see pitted contact thru that plastic? could drill a spy hole and tape it over?? duhhhh. :D

Yes, that's my question too. From the pics, it looks like you can see into the contacts. I'd examine very closely before unsoldering them...especially if they are soldered on both sides of the board. That sounds like a demanding unsoldering task. A lot of solder to clear. I'd avoid wick there because of the length of heat involved...and use a good vacuum desolderer.

But I'd really, really look closely at those relays before doing anything.
 
Yes, that's my question too. From the pics, it looks like you can see into the contacts. I'd examine very closely before unsoldering them...especially if they are soldered on both sides of the board. That sounds like a demanding unsoldering task. A lot of solder to clear. I'd avoid wick there because of the length of heat involved...and use a good vacuum desolderer.

But I'd really, really look closely at those relays before doing anything.

Can't see underneath where the contact is being made...? Will test the voltage of each, tomorrow, per arts.
 
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