Solderless PCB connection conversion

JKBay

New Member
Hello everyone. I am new to AudioKarma and though I have some experience I am full of questions and I may, from time to time have some answers to share with like minded people.

I thought I would start with a couple questions and hopefully some really great ideas will come my way. Like many of you, I like to work and re-work 60's and 70's audio gear. I have some ideas to solve the desolder resolder problem (Ie: the constant destruction of original wire) on PCB's. I thought male to female individual pins would make the process of component removal quick and easy yet still maintain a strong seamless signal path. However I would love some input on this idea.

Also, what is the official name of this type of wire (see photos) Specifically for Marantz, so I can order some that need replacing in a couple 70's marantz's I am refurbishing. It is of the rca or coaxial family but I need something more specific. It is 14 gauge mainly used for audio connections .
 

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Hello JKBay, Welcome to AK. In the second shot the wire looks like 1105 24AWG hook up wire. The first shot looks like more of the same. The wires have a Type (#) and the gauge of the wire listed. Standard hook up wire. Use 1007,1015, and such at work (Electronic Tech for 35 yrs). To check which wire it is post what is written on the wires and I'll look up the type and let you know.
 
Thanks for the shout back. I went ahead and ordered some header pins and 18-24awg housings.. I'm going to see if that will help with the whole solder situation. It's just something I want to try as I refurbish more and more of these to try to improve the design and make them easier to access.

Now these wires:

I got the gauge mixed up on the opening so here is what the wires say:

TOMOE DENSEN UL AWM E49982 Style 1107 Fri-1 60c 26AWg

I see some ebay garbage out there but there must be a modern equivalent to these multi-colored coaxially type wires.
 
Does the wire in the second shot (the green and orange) have shielding? Front the different color wire poking out of the heat shrink I would think so.
If so you could cut up some RCA cables and use that for replacement wire. The thrifts are generally full of cables that would make good donors or you could order something like a nice Mogami cable if you wanted to get fancy.

I don't think using header pins with connectors is a bad idea at all if you're planning on being in and out of something a few times. I try not to unsolder or unwrap if possible but some boards are just impossible to get at without pulling pins.
 
Yes that is exactly what type of wire it is.They are the wires that run to the input sections, perhaps that would have been a better photo. Marantz units are packed with them. I want to go the high end route for certain reconstructions but there are so many conflicting thoughts about cables (and everything else). Sometimes a cable is just a cable but I know garbage when I see it. I believe for the most part, it is a subjective thing. We have been lucky at garage sales and thrift stores or just something sitting on the side of the road.

I want to do header ins on all my projects, It just makes sense to me. I may get a lot of flack from certain folks but why not make it easier?

I am also having a lot of difficulty in finding modern versions for certain parts, namely all things transistors. Any suggestions on how to simplify this? I know we are lucky to have the internet, and don't have to thumb through catalogs like my grandfather did, but certain aspects of this I can't wrap my head around.
 
Next on the list is a 2220. Not glamorous but an excellent learning unit. It's in rough shape. I've done a couple low end stuff. My real goal is to hone enough skill to do a complete refurb on a 1060 I just aquired. There is one on here that is incredible and I want to almost duplicate what they did. If funds permit.
 
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