SP-2500 Speakers thrift store find with pictures

Thanks for all the tips and the feedback. I will order the Jantzen Z standards first and check the resistors.

Casey, is it difficult to change out the binding posts? Because I know that it is connected through the circuit board so the connector would need to be a similar size or some modification will be needed?

Here is one I found. Does a wire solder to the eye in the picture and then run it to the board? It looks long in the picture, just not sure if it will hit the board or not?

http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=091-1245
 
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Update: I just noticed that there is a k to the right of the ohm sign in my picture. Mine might be 15,000 ohms? I think I will need measure it to be sure.

:eek:
Those are not 15,000 Ω resistors.
The "K" is a tolerance code. In this case, + or - 10% of rated value.
Letter tolerance codes are as follows:

F = 1%
G = 2%
J = 5%
K = 10%
M = 20%

You'll want 16Ω non-inductive resistors if the stock items need replacing.

Fabulous looking speakers, by the way!
 
Stuart Pedaso, thank you very much for that info. I didn't know that was a tolerance code. Do you think I will notice a difference in sound if I replace the resistors if they are not bad?

This is what I am thinking of using:

Mills 15 Ohm 12W Non-Inductive Resistor
http://www.parts-express.com/pe/pshowdetl.cfm?Partnumber=005-15

or

Dayton DNR-16 16 Ohm 10W Precision Audio Grade Resistor
http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=004-16

The wattage is more then I need but it is all I see. I really need 16 ohm but if the tolerance was 10% before I guess it does not matter much.

SP2500_3.jpg

My original resistors and caps.
 
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Posts

Thanks for all the tips and the feedback. I will order the Jantzen Z standards first and check the resistors.

Casey, is it difficult to change out the binding posts? Because I know that it is connected through the circuit board so the connector would need to be a similar size or some modification will be needed?

Here is one I found. Does a wire solder to the eye in the picture and then run it to the board? It looks long in the picture, just not sure if it will hit the board or not?

http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=091-1245

I don't know for sure, pull the crossover and see, or simply solder a lead wire in from post to board.
I wouldn't change any resistors that are in spec tolerance now, just the caps.
Casey
 
Have you used a multimeter yet to check the resistors ? Hey,I did'nt know the "k" was a tolerence level..sorry bout that.
 
Gorgeous set of SP2500s. You got a steal at $65. I had to go the long route and get mine on the auction block. Ended paying over $400 for a couple of pairs like what you have here. Thanks for posting the pics. Nice to see these out there in great shape.

I eventually elected to leave my crossovers alone after much pondering over it.
 
No worries twc5964, I had no idea about the k also. I should get around to testing it on Monday.

Culpeper, after I change out the caps I will report back the change. I may record a before and after with my high quality audio recorder. For $30 in parts it may be a good investment if the results are good.
 
Man those look good enough to eat! I can't wait to get some salad dressing on mine. Thanks for the cleaning tip.
 
Those are some very nice looking speakers you got their!

Hope you get those things recapped!

Congrats!
 
No worries twc5964, I had no idea about the k also. I should get around to testing it on Monday.

Culpeper, after I change out the caps I will report back the change. I may record a before and after with my high quality audio recorder. For $30 in parts it may be a good investment if the results are good.

Thank you, sir.
 
Do you think I will notice a difference in sound if I replace the resistors if they are not bad?

This is what I am thinking of using:

Mills 15 Ohm 12W Non-Inductive Resistor
http://www.parts-express.com/pe/pshowdetl.cfm?Partnumber=005-15

or

Dayton DNR-16 16 Ohm 10W Precision Audio Grade Resistor
http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=004-16

The wattage is more then I need but it is all I see. I really need 16 ohm but if the tolerance was 10% before I guess it does not matter much.

If any measures below 14.4Ω or above 17.6Ω then they have drifted outside of their 10% tolerance and should be replaced.

If any measure between 15.68Ω to 16.32Ω then they are already within the tighter 2% tolerance of the Daytons and you should realize no sonic benefit by replacing them.

Replacing any that fall well outside of 2% of rated value with tighter tolerance resistors could insure a closer match between speakers. Though I couldn't guarantee how audible that would be. Note how long those higher wattage resistors are -- the leads will likely have to be bent back inward to fit your circuit board. But it should work.
 
Thanks for all your detailed information Stuart. I will check it when I get back in town later this week, I should have the new caps by then also.
 
I replaced the capacitors today on the crossover but the resistors tested out OK so I didn't replace them. The glue bond on the old caps made removal a challenge. I found the best way to remove the old caps was to give it a good squeeze with some needle nose pliers and rock it back and forth. The glue is so strong you just end up removing most of the cap but leaving the outer skin still attached to the glue. I just simply rested the new caps on top of the glue/cap skin that remained. I found no need to go through the trouble of trying to pick off the old glue since it is not near any contacts.

To remove the crossover board from the holder you will need to remove the screws, switch knobs, washer/nut on the switch shaft and solder from the terminal posts coming up through the board. You can't remove all of the solder from the terminal so just get it hot and stick a flat blade screwdriver between the contacts then you can slowly try and separate the board.

I also recommend marking the wires before removing the contacts to the speakers from the board.

Here are some before and after pictures, you can see the new caps are much larger but the board does not have any trouble accommodating the larger size. I also recorded some audio samples before and after the recap. I noticed a big difference after changing the caps. Not sure if you will notice the difference in the recording or not? Just may depend on the type of speakers you are using. It may be best to burn the WAV files to a CD and play on your home audio gear, unless you have really good computer speakers. I used three different types of music. The song Lucky showed the most noticeable difference in my opinion.

Note: Audio file samples are large and recorded at very high quality. It may take time to load. If stops loading while using a QuickTime plug in just refresh the page.

http://www.soaporganicnc.com/Le Roi d'Ys Old Caps.WAV
(Le Roi d'Ys) Old Caps

http://www.soaporganicnc.com/Le Roi d'Ys New Caps.WAV
(Le Roi d'Ys) New Caps

http://www.soaporganicnc.com/Lucky No Tone Control Old Caps.WAV
(Lucky) Old Caps

http://www.soaporganicnc.com/Lucky No Tone Control New Caps.WAV
(Lucky) New Caps

http://www.soaporganicnc.com/Pink Floyd Time Old Caps.WAV
(Time) Old Caps

http://www.soaporganicnc.com/Pink Floyd Time New Caps.WAV
(Time) New Caps

SP2500_Crossover_Old_Caps.jpg


SP2500_Crossover_New_Caps.jpg


SP2500_Crossover_Old_Caps_2.jpg
 
Culpeper,

Did you have a chance to listen to the audio files? I think the improvement is worth to change the caps for only a $30 investment. Not sure how well you can tell from my samples but in person it does sound much better.
 
Thanks Whaleman, I look forward to your report back.

Cool speaker you have there. Looks like it ate a console TV!
 
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