Ok, some pre install/solder pics:
I got my values for the capacitor and resistor using the calculator on this page, and entering my values from the Dayton DATS program:
http://www.apicsllc.com/apics/Misc/filter2.html
I stayed with the 6ohm rating, and used my Le value from the T/S ~1.768mh. To get the henry value, I simply moved the decimal three places to the left or .0018 (rounding up). That gave me a 50uf cap and 7.5ohm resistor. I probably overkilled this by using the Dayton cap, I think simple electrolytic would be fine here, but what the heck, right? If you're going to setup a Zobel for yours, I think you'd want to try to find T/S specs for that woofer you're using.
Looking at the diagram on that page for the Zobel (or RC circuit), the cap and resistor run across the + and - wires to the woofer. I laid out everything on my board, marked and drilled holes for zip strips, and the secured my Zobel. I will solder once installed to the speaker cabinet back: In the photo, the 3 way spade will be my negative input from the crossover, and negative out to the speaker:
20171229_082100 by
Steven Ragan, on Flickr
I then placed my coil. Again, using this page to calculate the value I wanted for the low pass:
http://www.apicsllc.com/apics/Misc/filter1.html A 1.5mh coil gave me a cutoff at roughly 640, which should (I think) match up fine for the 700hz bandpass at the midranges. 1.2mh runs up to almost 800, which for me would have been too high, but likely would work fine as well.
Here's a pic of placement and explanation. In a 6db crossover, the coil runs in line with the positive lead to the speaker. The lower 3 way spade in the pic will be the attachment in from the crossover network. The middle or upper 3 way spade will be the positive lead out to the speaker. Again, once I install the board to the speaker cabinet back, I'll solder all connections and attach the wires.
20171229_082157 by
Steven Ragan, on Flickr
I thought I had enough room to use these boards in my cabinet, but alas no. Intentions were to install this directly next to the Woofer Out of the crossover. I ended up having to place them below the crossover network, almost directly behind the woofer. Had I known this, I probably would have just used plastic pipe clamp hold downs and used brass wood screws mounting each piece, and spades, directly to the back. No matter, I know this works as is. I've upgraded the internal speaker wire using DIY outdoor extension cord. Wire from the low pass to the crossover is 10 gauge solid core wire. Something you may also want to consider is using Rope Caulk weatherstripping along the inside edge where the cabinet back mounts to the speaker enclosure. Works fantastic, I had to pull my crossovers out and use my hand to hammer the back off the speaker. Will give you a nice seal on the cabinet.
Please understand, this is the first time I've assembled anything like this, and my second soldering adventure. I understand the concept, but did a lot of reading and looking at various odd pictures to be sure I understood the layout. If I could do it, anyone can.
Hope that helps!