SPEAKER/CABINET stains/now with photos
- Thread starter rudpra
- Start date
I presume you are looking for guidance on correcting this?
Have you efforted anything yet?
Looks like some Howards and fine steel wool would likely get you a better finish.
Looks like Walnut from the pics.
Have you efforted anything yet?
Looks like some Howards and fine steel wool would likely get you a better finish.
Looks like Walnut from the pics.
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0000 steel wool and some of this in walnut tint. Get some Feed n' Wax too.
https://www.amazon.com/Howard-RF301...528380&ref=pd_sl_7zciiflxqb_b&tag=googhydr-20
https://www.amazon.com/Howard-FW001...TF8&qid=1468949670&sr=1-1&keywords=feed+n+wax
https://www.amazon.com/Howard-RF301...528380&ref=pd_sl_7zciiflxqb_b&tag=googhydr-20
https://www.amazon.com/Howard-FW001...TF8&qid=1468949670&sr=1-1&keywords=feed+n+wax
I have not heard of alcohol as part of going after water stains. The good news is that it is a white stain and has hopefully not gotten under the original finish. As speedbump has suggested also, Howards and steel wool is a safe and generally effective approach.
Mayonnaise mixed with cigar ash is an old school technique and would be an inexpensive approach as well!
Mayonnaise mixed with cigar ash is an old school technique and would be an inexpensive approach as well!
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8golftango
Respect the classics
Lol seriously?
From what I see on the pics, definitely Howard's will take care of those. Make sure that IF you use steel wool, that you only use the super-fine 0000. And always rub in the direction of the wood grain. I just did some KLH Model Seventeen cabinets. Except for the area on one that had been used as a plant stand
where the grain has actually been raised, they came out beautiful. I am going to try some light hand-sanding on that one. Then, I am going to apply 3 coats of Danish Oil
where the grain has actually been raised, they came out beautiful. I am going to try some light hand-sanding on that one. Then, I am going to apply 3 coats of Danish Oil
Blue Shadow
Waiting for Vintage Gear from this century
Cigar selection would have a serious impact on the "inexpensive" part of that statement!!
SteveS in VA
Active Member
Alcohol is a very standard treatment for removing white water rings. Denatured alcohol or 91% isopropol will work. Dampen a paper towel with the alcohol and lightly wipe across the stains. Just dampen the surface DO NOT make it really wet. Several passes should work but if after a few passes it still has some stain let the surface dry for a little longer (like 40 minutes to be safe) and try again.
The mayonnaisse does also work (the oil replaces the imbedded water, the cigar ash acts as a very mild abrasive.
I don't recommend sanding on veneer. If you need to refinish, remove old finish with a chemical stripper. Use oxalic acid wood bleach to remove black stains. Pure tung oil doesn't make a good finish, but most products you see labeled Tung Oil Finish are actually oil/varnish mixes (Minwax for example) or varnish (Formby's in either gloss or satin)
The mayonnaisse does also work (the oil replaces the imbedded water, the cigar ash acts as a very mild abrasive.
I don't recommend sanding on veneer. If you need to refinish, remove old finish with a chemical stripper. Use oxalic acid wood bleach to remove black stains. Pure tung oil doesn't make a good finish, but most products you see labeled Tung Oil Finish are actually oil/varnish mixes (Minwax for example) or varnish (Formby's in either gloss or satin)
My mother in law (now 90 years old) rubbed mayo on our antique dining room table to get rid of a water stain and it created a huge mess and I was steaming mad. Until I realized it bloody well worked! The old girl still knows a few things after all.
westend
Audiopile
Howards Restore-a-Finish has a solvent that softens the original finish. It also has a varnish component and some types of it contain a stain. Just so you know what it does.
FWIW, I recently restored a pair of Grundig speakers, circa 1960. The light walnut veneer had the typical water marks, scratches, and flower pot stains. One speaker had the veneer baked (as sitting in the Sun can do for 20 yrs). I used 800 or 1000 grit wet-and-dry sandpaper and polymerized tung oil to recover the finish. The final coats were applied with a rag. Even the BIL, a professional furniture builder and upholsterer was impressed.
About steel wool: I've probably used a few hundred pounds of it over the years. With the advent of 3M scrubbing/sanding pads, steel wool is obsolete. There's no reason to mar your finish work with particles of metal when a synthetic pad works as well and leaves no metal bits.
Mayonnaise and ashes? Hey, it's not 1930 again. Use products made for refinishing wood.
FWIW, I recently restored a pair of Grundig speakers, circa 1960. The light walnut veneer had the typical water marks, scratches, and flower pot stains. One speaker had the veneer baked (as sitting in the Sun can do for 20 yrs). I used 800 or 1000 grit wet-and-dry sandpaper and polymerized tung oil to recover the finish. The final coats were applied with a rag. Even the BIL, a professional furniture builder and upholsterer was impressed.
About steel wool: I've probably used a few hundred pounds of it over the years. With the advent of 3M scrubbing/sanding pads, steel wool is obsolete. There's no reason to mar your finish work with particles of metal when a synthetic pad works as well and leaves no metal bits.
Mayonnaise and ashes? Hey, it's not 1930 again. Use products made for refinishing wood.
