SPEC 2 Restoration - How do I dis-assemble?

Discussion in 'Pioneer Audio' started by slipstream55, Dec 22, 2017.

  1. slipstream55

    slipstream55 Active Member

    Messages:
    228
    Location:
    Gilbert, Arizona
    This question goes out to all of you who have completed a SPEC 2 restoration.

    I have the top, bottom and front panels removed. I am sending the top and bottom panels out for paint. I would like to include both side panels for paint also but I am trying to figure out how to remove them without damaging the rest of the chassis components or disturbing the fragile wiring. I will still need access to the Meter and P/S boards for re-capping.

    Are you all rigging up some sort of jig to hold everything in place while the main filter caps are replaced and work is done to the other boards such that what is left of the assembly can be reposition if needed and how are the remaining chassis parts laid out for access without the side panels installed. Just curious. Some pix might be helpful if anyone has them available.

    Thanks for your help and Merry Christmas to all of the AK community.
     

     

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  2. slipstream55

    slipstream55 Active Member

    Messages:
    228
    Location:
    Gilbert, Arizona
    Wow. 41 watchers but no answers?

    I just wanted to know how to keep everything from falling apart if the two side panels were removed. By default, the front and rear panels would be free to go wherever they wanted since there is nothing holding them in place once the two side panels are removed.

    :^(
     
  3. zebulon1

    zebulon1 Getting behind on work. I need help? Subscriber

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    Never had it that far apart.
    Using a piece of thin plywood cut to the same overall dimensions seems a good idea. Some extended M3 hardware to cover the plywood thickness, and your in?
    Must of been pretty crusty?
     
  4. rjsalvi

    rjsalvi Active Member

    Messages:
    487
    Location:
    San Diego, CA
    I'm trying to envision this from memory, but it seems to me that I first removed the faceplate and then the amp boards. I rested the unit on its side and removed the side panel facing up, then I gently brought the unit back down to horizontal, lifted the side with the panel still affixed, and put a piece of wood under the frame just high enough to unscrew and remove the panel. I *think* that's how I did it.

    Edit: after reading Zeb's post below, maybe I left it horizontal and propped up one side at a time to remove them. Sorry, I just can't remember the exact order I disassembled it, but it obviously can be done.
     
    Last edited: Jan 7, 2018
  5. zebulon1

    zebulon1 Getting behind on work. I need help? Subscriber

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    The side panels can be unscrewed from the front face, midspan and back plate. Once one side panel, is removed it gets really flimsy.
     
  6. slipstream55

    slipstream55 Active Member

    Messages:
    228
    Location:
    Gilbert, Arizona
    Zeb...Yes, it appears to have had a very hard life and, yes, it will get very flimsy once the panels are removed and that's my quandary. The wire wrap wiring is so very brittle now that I'm afraid to flex/stress them at all. I have already lost some of the wiring on the Output assemblies (though someone did get into the amp before me).

    I was thinking along the lines of what you mentioned above regarding temporary wood supports to replace the side panels. Just wanted to touch base with the Forum to see if someone had a better idea. Wood supports it is.

    Oh, side observation. What was Pioneer thinking regarding the assembly wiring approach making the PS board so boxed in with wiring on top and bottom and through a slot hole in the bottom plate so as to make the board so difficult to work on? I'm a little perplexed with the Meter board as well.
     

     

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  7. zebulon1

    zebulon1 Getting behind on work. I need help? Subscriber

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    The meter board is accessible once the face plate is removed but the PS board is a chore.
    I feel your concern for the top notch restoration and don't begrudge your decision to repaint the chassis bits.
    I would of done the same a few years ago but have moved to a good cleaning of the inside. I'll touch up bare metal and restore the unreliable components but leave the patina alone.
    The outside is the money shot and once the bonnet/panels are secured, the innards are moot point. You might loose a nights sleep for not making the full-resto goal, but you'll get over it quickly.
     
  8. slipstream55

    slipstream55 Active Member

    Messages:
    228
    Location:
    Gilbert, Arizona
    Thanks for all the input, guys.

    I had some scrap 3/4" plywood I was able to cut some temporary side panels from. A trip to Ace Hardware for some 3mm and 4mm machine screws does the trick, nicely. I included some pix of the finished project. Very sturdy.

    panel a (med).jpg

    panel b (medium).jpg

    panel c (medium).jpg

    panel f (medium).jpg

    panel D (medium).jpg

    panel e (medium).jpg

    Now the panels are off to paint. Thanks again for the help.

    Mark
     
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  9. zebulon1

    zebulon1 Getting behind on work. I need help? Subscriber

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    That worked out nicely. :D
     
  10. markthefixer

    markthefixer On Hiatus, dealing with Dad's estate full time Subscriber

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    You were moving into uncharted territory and I had nothing concrete to contribute. Usually when I strip something down that far I let it rest on the bench undisturbed until the panels are ready to reinstall.

    I wasn't sure if I was reading sarcasm, so I felt the need to explain.

    NICE job on the plywood. I MEAN it.
     
  11. slipstream55

    slipstream55 Active Member

    Messages:
    228
    Location:
    Gilbert, Arizona
    No sarcasm implied or intended. I was looking for some positive feedback to give me that warm, fuzzy "I'm going in the right direction" feeling with the temporary wood side panels from anyone who has done this before. I got it. I'm warm and fuzzy all over now and the wood panels are working great.
     

     

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