Kingfisher
Well-Known Member
I still have to do the screen resistor mods. and get the MPX aligned. I also have to replace the dial lamps, order a new case and new quad of 7868's. This is all the work I've done so far:
-Replaced film capacitors in the phono section with .022uf/630v Illinois
-Replaced film capacitors in voltage amp and tone control with .047uf/630v Illinois
-Replaced 1uf electrolytic capacitor in multiplexer with 1uf Nichicon film capacitor
-Replaced 8uf capacitor in the detector circuit with 8uf/50v Sprague Atoms electrolytic
-Replaced .1uf capacitor in detector circuit with .1uf/250v C-D DME
-Replaced 1800pf disc capacitor that I accidentally damaged with Vishay 1800pf ceramic disc
-Replaced .047uf capacitors in the output stage with .068uf/630v C-D DME’s.
-Replaced 330k ohm grid return resistors with 220k ohm
-Replaced yellow ground wires on 7868 cathodes with 10 ohm resistors
-Replaced 3-section can with 2 Nichicon 47uf/315v capacitors and 1 Nichicon 220uf/350v
-Replaced 4-section can and 1-section insulated can with Hayseed Hamfest equivalents
-Replaced 1w/1200 ohm resistor on 4-section can (it repeatedly tested at around 2150 ohms on 2 different DMM’s)
-Replaced 2 diodes with 3A MCC Ultra-Fast diodes
-Replaced 1000uf/35v dual capacitor with 2 Nichicon 1800uf/50v capacitors
-Replaced 100uf/35v capacitor with Sprague Atoms 100uf/50v electrolytic
-Replaced selenium rectifier with 8A/400v silicon bridge
-Replaced black .01uf “Gen. Inst.” film capacitors (the death cap with a Vishay safety cap)
-Added CL-80 thermistor between power transformer primary and the main power switch
-Cleaned connectors on back of chassis with bristle brush and Deoxit
-Bathed the tube sockets with Deoxit
-Cleaned front controls with Deoxit D5 and F5 (Faderlube)
-Passed dim bulb test
-Tested all functions on front panel
-Replaced film capacitors in the phono section with .022uf/630v Illinois
-Replaced film capacitors in voltage amp and tone control with .047uf/630v Illinois
-Replaced 1uf electrolytic capacitor in multiplexer with 1uf Nichicon film capacitor
-Replaced 8uf capacitor in the detector circuit with 8uf/50v Sprague Atoms electrolytic
-Replaced .1uf capacitor in detector circuit with .1uf/250v C-D DME
-Replaced 1800pf disc capacitor that I accidentally damaged with Vishay 1800pf ceramic disc
-Replaced .047uf capacitors in the output stage with .068uf/630v C-D DME’s.
-Replaced 330k ohm grid return resistors with 220k ohm
-Replaced yellow ground wires on 7868 cathodes with 10 ohm resistors
-Replaced 3-section can with 2 Nichicon 47uf/315v capacitors and 1 Nichicon 220uf/350v
-Replaced 4-section can and 1-section insulated can with Hayseed Hamfest equivalents
-Replaced 1w/1200 ohm resistor on 4-section can (it repeatedly tested at around 2150 ohms on 2 different DMM’s)
-Replaced 2 diodes with 3A MCC Ultra-Fast diodes
-Replaced 1000uf/35v dual capacitor with 2 Nichicon 1800uf/50v capacitors
-Replaced 100uf/35v capacitor with Sprague Atoms 100uf/50v electrolytic
-Replaced selenium rectifier with 8A/400v silicon bridge
-Replaced black .01uf “Gen. Inst.” film capacitors (the death cap with a Vishay safety cap)
-Added CL-80 thermistor between power transformer primary and the main power switch
-Cleaned connectors on back of chassis with bristle brush and Deoxit
-Bathed the tube sockets with Deoxit
-Cleaned front controls with Deoxit D5 and F5 (Faderlube)
-Passed dim bulb test
-Tested all functions on front panel
Yeah, I try to use terminal strips whenever possible when replacing multi-section cans. I also snipped off the old lugs on the original can. There was a 1-lug terminal strip that originally connected the two 330 ohm resistors that I had to remove in order to fit the big 220uf cap in its place. That strip got reemployed for the CL-80/power lead connection near the fuse holder at the back of the chassis. Here is a side view of the 3-section terminal strip:
