SS rectifier?

For a power amp, here's how I did it. Set the scope to read on the lowest voltage setting, mine is 2 mV. Hook a 8 ohm resistor load across the 8 ohm speaker connections (or 4 or 16 ohms, for that respective speaker connection). Hook the scope probe across the resistor load. Turn the amp on and let it idle. (no input signal).

Turn the time window down (or is it up?) on your scope so you can see the 120 Hz ripple. Without the snubber and with "regular" diodes, you should be able to see the ringing very easily. Add the snubber. The ringing goes almost away totally. You can see it change in real time by changing the value of the R in the snubber. If you use soft recovery diodes it isn't as pronounced, but it's still there.

I found the scope shots I mentioned previously. See post #1 on this thread: http://audiokarma.org/forums/index.php?threads/the-1625-amp-mk-ii.778418/

That reminds me that I really need to get a scope, haven't used one since the 70s.
 
I have another question:
If I go SS was thinking of making it a full wave bridge rectifier, if so does the center tap on the tranny still need to be grounded?
 
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That won't work with your current secondary configuration. A full wave bridge is grounded at the negative side of the bridge and thus uses the full voltage across the transformer secondary. So if you do were to do this, it would double your output voltage! Best to keep it full wave center tap.
 
and if you used a bridge and grounded the center tap, you'd be shorting half of the transformer, so that doesn't work either.

Double voltage, half current, or near enough when using a full wave bridge vs full wave center tap.
 
I decided to stick with the tube rectifier, this is the result. It works great. Making a new top plate for the phono pre, don't need all of those holes anymore.


new psu.jpg

stage and psu.jpg
 
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